jmackovic

So here's a question... I just recently put EU700's in the sail panels and they do the job pretty well. I am upgrading the rest of the speakers and the HU this week and was thinking. Is it possible to run the doors speakers off the 4 channels powered by the HU and the Sail Panels and hatch speakers from the Monsoon? The reason I asked is I had a dead front left speaker last night (until I unplugged the tweeter) and when I was checking my wiring connections I noticed that if I unplugged the positive front left, I lost all sound. So am I able to run new wires from the HU to the front speakers and leave the rest alone? Is the Monsoon system designed to require the Feed of all four channels in order to output at all? Or do I have a bad front channel in my amp. I understand that if I am able to do what I am talking about I will lose the tweeter in the hatch but I'm wondering, is it possible? I guess I might know more tonight when I start hooking up the new speakers to see if that channel in the amp is bad.

If anyone has done this or knows if it can be done I'd appreciate it.

Thanks!

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

I will assume you have a Firebird since you mention separate tweeters in the doors and hatch area. In that case, the tweeters (both front and rear) are already powered by the head unit rather than the Monsoon amp. All of the other speaker elements are powered by the amp. But the amp gets its input from the four channels of speaker-level output produced by the head unit. So wiring from the HU directly to the speakers doesn't gain you anything except bypassing the Monsoon amp. Considering that the amp is probably the best part of the Monsoon system (the head unit sucks), that doesn't seem like a good idea.

If the amp has problems, you can pick up a replacement pretty cheaply - just make sure you get one out of the right model of car. However, losing all sound from disconnecting a single speaker doesn't sound like an amp problem. The amp will power any available speakers even if one or more are disconnected.

rr2000camaro

So is it possible to see some pictures of the wiring all connected and finished? lol

Project Mongoose

iTrader: (1)

OK I know this thread is dead and since everyone else has been asking questions here I figured I would as well instead of making a new thread. I also noticed that most question were for firebirds and if it was with a camaro they only bypassed a few of the speakers.

I want to bypass the amp completly and from what I read and seen on the diagram this is what I need to do.

For the camaro monsoon bypass for all wires to make the system completely 4 ohm.

E1 INTO F3 AND F6
E2 INTO E14 AND E16
E5 INTO F4 AND F13
E6 INTO F10 AND F15

F1 INTO F2 AND F7
E3 INTO E13 AND E15
E4 INTO F5 AND F14
E7 INTO F11 AND F16

Since the tweeter and the extended range also go through the amp I figured I would have to run one input into two output to make the system completely 4 ohm.

If anyone has any input if I did this wrong please say so. If anyone is wondering why I want to do this....simple all speakers are blown and yes the amp does work, but im a cheap bast**d and dont fill like buy new 2 ohm speakers that are limited t certian brands and locations. thanks.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

As I've said before, why would you want to bypass the amp? If you're installing your own aftermarket amp then just rewire properly. If you aren't adding your own amp then why give up the power? Either way, bypassing the Monsoon amp is just a foolish thing to do.

Project Mongoose

iTrader: (1)

really? thats the best supporting answer you can give me is that im foolish for bypassing. i just told you why before you could come back with that comment. read the whole thing bro. instead of simply having the same answer to anyone wanting to bypass the amp take a look at the question and see if i did the damn thing right. Jesus. whats the point of getting on forums when you going to do nothing but voice your opinion on what someone else wants to do to their car.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Read the whole thing? Really? I read it and all I saw was a noobe who hadn't done their research to find out why bypassing the Monsoon amp is a foolish thing to do. Even just reading this entire thread and the Monsoon FAQ sticky would have given you more information. So I'll explain again what you missed.

There is a mistaken belief among people unfamiliar with audio systems that the impedance of the speakers is a hard limit that can't be changed. On the contrary, any amp can run speakers of higher impedance than what it's rated to use. Running 4-ohm speakers on an amp that is 2-ohm stable will not hurt the amp in any way. In fact, the amp will run cooler since the speakers aren't drawing as much current. Now, if you just replace 2-ohm speakers with 4-ohm speakers that are otherwise identical, you give up half the power resulting in a 3dB drop in volume (about one click of the volume ****). However, any decent aftermarket speakers are at least 3dB more efficient (sensitive) than the cheap stock speakers - resulting in no loss of volume at all. Besides, even a 3dB loss is less than what you lose by removing the power of the amp. All of this has been discussed and repeated numerous times in these forums and elsewhere. You can find a great tutorial on the basics of audio systems at Basic Car Audio Electronics.

So, again, if you aren't going to add your own aftermarket amp to the system, why would you want to give up the power you already have and run off the head unit alone?

Project Mongoose

iTrader: (1)

Found a dummy diagram that explains this audio crap to me and I see why your saying this. Now I have to do the thinking on how i need to wire the wires to make my 4ohm speakers for the 2 ohm set up to make the same sound. but basicly have two 4ohm on one 2ohm channel.....let me know if im correct. if thats the case then ill have the back seat speakers work on one channel and the door speakers work on one channel. That way both sets of 4 ohm speakers work like 2 ohm speakers. If I said this correctly let me know and then Ill type out the wire codes and see if I got it right.

Project Mongoose

iTrader: (1)

ok now lets see if i got this right.

this is for the camaro eight speaker system




(pairing subs together and mids together)

Take F11 out of its slot and pair it with F5
Take F10 out of its slot and pair it with F4

Take E15 out of its slot and pair it with F7
Take E16 out of its slot and pair it with F6

Now this is if I replaced the door and back speakers with 4ohm Speakers.

If your wondering about the tweeters, Ill simply replace them with some small tweeters.

Let me know if this correct. If not then I quit lol.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

The point was that you should stop worrying about using 4-ohm speakers in place of the factory 2-ohm speakers. They will work fine without going to great lengths to match the impedance.

Step away from the amp connector and just install your 4-ohm speakers in the stock locations. In the doors you will want to use only the mid's wires if you install coaxial speakers - leave the tweeter wires disconnected. For the sail panels you can either get 6.5" subs (they can be found for under $100 per pair) or pull the hatch speaker wires forward to the sail panels if you install coaxial speakers there. That's because the amp only sends low frequency signal to the sail panels for the factory subs while the hatch speakers get full range signal.

LS1121

iTrader: (17)

It just amazes me that people can't read and understand simple instructions. It's almost like they want to skip over the entire thread and ask the same questions over and over again. lol.

Project Mongoose

iTrader: (1)

well reading all the complaints from others replacing their 2 ohm speakers with 4 ohm speakers, mostly saying they sounded like crap. Thats why I was trying to steer from putting 4 ohm on to a 2 ohm. But what ever

fucter

iTrader: (5)

2000 camaro here, mine was

Fronts
E2 - GRAY - left front negative input> E16 - LIGHT BLUE - left front negative output
E3 - TAN - left front positive input> E15 - DARK BLUE - left front positive output

E1 - DARK GREEN - right front negative input> F6 - DARK GREEN - right front negative output
F1 - LIGHT GREEN - right front positive input>F7 - ORANGE - right front positive output


rears
E4 - DARK BLUE - right rear positive input>F5 - DARK GREEN - right rear positive output
E5 - LIGHT BLUE - right rear negative input>F4 - LIGHT BLUE w/BLACK - right rear negative output

E6 - YELLOW - left rear negative input> F10 - LIGHT GREEN w/BLACK - left rear negative output
E7 - BROWN - left rear positive input>F11 - DARK BLUE w/WHITE - left rear positive output

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

How amazing! That list is just like the one in the Monsoon FAQ sticky that has been available for years.

meissenation

iTrader: (2)

That is amazing! You posted the sticky 4 months after this thread was created - wonder where you got it from?

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

The factory service manual. I could see that there was a need for accurate information to be conspicuously posted.

But thanks!

Kelly David Rivas

Why on earth would you ever want to sell your bird?

Take off all your panels and put all new wiring down take the old junk out, especially if its old like mine.

Do it right and the way you like it, screw satisfying some potential future owner.

GPz1100

^^Wow.. Didn't realize I was still subscribed to this forum/thread. You realize the post you replied to is 6 years old!!!

I actually did sell the car nearly 2 years ago. Ended up leaving the speakers in place because it was too much of a hassle to remove.

I upgraded to a 4 door camaro ----> G37 sedan 6mt. Lacks a bit of the low end torque, but is faster, and handles a whole lot better in the corners. If chevy ever redesigns the new camaro I may consider it, but the way it is, it's very difficult to see out of.

tjr960

So I just bought an amp and sub for my 97 firebird. I previously replaced the Head Unit but left the stock amp in place. The wiring harness for the HU does not have a Remote turn on wire that would turn on my amp when ever i turn on my stereo. How can i get my amp to turn on with my car?

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

A quick search would have brought up hundreds of threads on this subject.

Of course your aftermarket head unit wiring has a remote turn-on wire. They all do. It might be combined with the power antenna wire but it's there. It is blue for remote turn-on only or blue with white for combined power antenna/remote turn-on.