nascarnate326

iTrader: (1)

Bumping an 8 year old thread.

THANK YOU for this. Finally decided to ditch my monsoon system and this made it much easier.

Anyone figure out a way to wire up some 4 inch speakers in the back?

I used Kicker 6.5 and they seem to work great.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

It's really a shame you didn't read the whole thread and understand why it's such a dumb idea to bypass the Monsoon amp. If you're doing a complete system including an aftermarket amp then don't do the ghetto mod - take the time to wire it right. If not, why give up the power of the Monsoon amp that will work just fine with an aftermarket head unit? Just because you heard someone say the Monsoon system sucks? You should have done more research.

nascarnate326

iTrader: (1)

I did tons of research and as much as I wanted a Kee Audio system, for my needs a simple bypass works great. Ran to walmart, got 100 bucks in speakers, 5 bucks in wire..problem solved.

I wanted to have the option to return it to 100% stock and this accomplishes that goal.

Not that you asked, but when I got my car it was missing half the factory speakers. 2 ohm speakers for this car are crazy expensive...a simple 4 ohm system will work for me.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Again, the point made several times in this thread and elsewhere is that you don't have to use 2-ohm speakers. The Monsoon amp will power 4-ohm speakers without issue. Did you even try leaving the amp connected after replacing your speakers?

The only issue with leaving the amp is the sail panels because full-range speakers mounted there (especially cheap ones) will sound terrible with the low frequency signal provided by the amp. I wouldn't normally recommend this because most people who are getting rid of their Monsoon system are trying to improve the sound. But you can get Pyle 6.5" subs for the sail panels from Walmart for only $15 each. That leaves you $75 of your $105 budget to get some decent coaxials for the doors. Then you split the coaxial's tweeter wiring and connect as components to the factory door wiring from the Monsoon amp. Voila... you've replaced the speakers and kept the power of the amp for the same $105 you spent to bypass it.

nascarnate326

iTrader: (1)

ya your way smarter than me with this stuff lol

the fact that I got the bypass to work is impressive enough for me. Automotive audio wiring isn't exactly my strong point.

shawnquinn98

I installed an aftermarket radio, and an amplifier wired to two sub woofers. I have the monsoon sound system with several blown speakers. I bought two 6.5 2 way coaxial speakers 4 ohm (200w) for door panels and two 6x9 3 way coaxial speakers 4 ohm (220w). I replaced the rear deck speakers and the factory speakers had four wires for the tweaters + and - , and the sub's + and - . i snipped the sub wires and only spliced the factory tweater wires to the new speakers. the factory speakers are 2 ohm but by reading the thread it wouldn't change much having 4 ohm speakers wired from the two ohm monsoon amp. The speakers don't sound too loud, due to having my 4 ohm subwoofers in my trunk on an aftermarket 2 ohm amp, but is there a way to make my new rear deck speakers louder? How would you idealy set things up ? I would greatly appreciate a response. Thank you.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

You don't say what model of car but I'm going to assume Firebird because Camaros don't have two pairs of wires anywhere except the doors. Of course none of the cars have 6x9 speakers (nor should they) and only Camaros have 2-ohm speakers so I could be mistaken.

There are several confusing points that you might clear up so that I can give you a better answer. When you say "rear deck" speakers, which speakers do you mean? None of the 4th generation f-bodies have rear decks so did you mean the sail panel subs (next to the rear seat) or the hatch speakers?

The sail panel subs are 4-ohm dual voice coil so they have two pairs of wires, both of which carry the same low-frequency-only signal. The hatch speakers consist of a 4" mid and a .75" tweeter - there is no sub there and both are 4-ohm. The tweeter gets only high-frequency signal so using it to connect a full range speaker like a 6x9 3-way will get you only high frequency sound. The 4" mid gets full range signal so using its wires will at least get you the correct signal. Still, it is low powered signal because the hatch speakers are intended for rear fill not as a primary sound source. The idea is that the sound stage should be in front of the listener and only rear fill and non-directional low frequencies should come from behind. That's why the hatch speakers can be so small from the factory.

So to answer your question about how to ideally set up a Monsoon system with extra subs... put quality components in the doors (not coaxial), put some decent mid-bass subs in the sail panels (something like Bazooka or CDT), leave the hatch speakers alone if they still work or replace them with inexpensive equivalents (not larger or multi-way), and add an amp and sub(s) as necessary to get the level of bass you want.

Bgrand281

information overload! after reading all this and a bunch of other threads, I want to know if there is a "blueprint" or actual diagram of the wiring for the monsoon sound system in a 2000 Trans Am? I know its about the same in a lot of models. i want something so I can plan a slow upgrade. I am starting in the sail panels. I am thinking about upgrading to a woofer with a tweeter there. so I need to know where all the wires are for all the speakers and there sources.
something like this but more specific.

head unit
door door
sail sail
hatch hatch
amp

where does the power come from and go to and what will it drive?
I've looked at the info on here which has a lot of the color coding info to track, but i'd rather not have to hope I get it right. I follow prints and diagrams all the time. Easy then

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

There are numerous schematics from the factory service manual that cover various aspects of the Monsoon system and all are copyrighted material owned by General Motors.

Assuming you don't plan to do something foolish like bypass the Monsoon amp, you really don't need any of the information in this thread. Basic upgrades can be done using the factory connections and leaving the Monsoon amp in place. More extensive upgrades involving aftermarket amps (other than just adding a sub/amp combination) should be done with proper rewiring and not by modifying the factory wiring.

Installing new sail panel subs is simply a matter of getting some 4-ohm DVC subs such as the popular Bazookas and connecting the two pairs of factory wires to the four terminals on the subs.

Similarly, upgrading the door speakers is just a case of getting a decent set of components and connecting the tweeters and mids to the existing factory wires.

Upgrading the head unit is even easier... get an adapter harness for around $10 and then simply match the HU wires to the adapter harness wires color for color (red to red, black to black, etc.) and then just plug it into the factory connector.

EnergyCC

Reading WhiteBird00's replies to everybody... I think he gets royalties every time someone plays music through the factory Monsoon amp, that's how much he advocates that thing! LOL

I lived with crappy sound for the last 8 months, running my alpine through the monsoon. Bypassed it tonight and let me tell you, the built in amp in the Alpine is MUCH, MUCH, MUCH cleaner sounding in the upper levels. No more clipping and distortion. The monsoon just can't compare...

trailshredder

Ok, just got the subs today and noticed they have 4 terminals, does it matter, other than polarity which colors on the plugs go to which terminals on the subs?

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Yes, it matters. The Firebird Monsoon has dual voice coil subs running off two separate amp channels each. The amp is not bridgeable so you can't combine the channels. And it's not 2-ohm stable if you got 2-ohm SVC subs. If you got 4-ohm SVC subs then you can pick one pair and run them with just half the available power.

trailshredder

The subs I got are dual voicecoil. Which wires go where?

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

That depends on whether your car came with the short jumper cables on the speaker wires or not. If it did then you will have two pairs of wires that are red and black. Reds go to the two positive terminals and blacks to the two negative. The speaker terminals should be marked but if they aren't, the larger ones are positive and the smaller ones are negative.

If your car didn't come with the jumpers...
Left side sub: white and light green with blue are the two negatives, tan and dark blue with white are the two positives.
Right side sub: tan and light blue with black are negative, red and dark green are positive.

trailshredder

Perfect! Thanks whitebird00!!

kinglt-1

iTrader: (26)

Just ordered my Kee Audio Level 2 package for the factory Monsoon System!

Bryan Farr

Just switched my 6×9 in g6 gt monsoon system I took the factory connector and so soderd on to new speaker which are mtx audio tdx693 3 way coaxial speakers the have some kind of crossover on speaker so the treble sounds terrible the bass is good though should I take off converter on speaker to wire tweeter directly to wire from monsoon amp?

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

The Monsoon system in a G6 is quite different from the one in f-bodies. However, the rear 6x9 speakers are wired much like the door speakers in a Camaro - they are separate components mounted with the tweeter inside the cone of the outer 6x9 "sub". That means you have four wires to each 6x9... one pair for the "sub" and the other for the tweeter. Those pairs represent separate channels from the Monsoon amp and carry audio signal filtered to match the connected component.

So, since your coaxial speaker doesn't have separate channels for the woofer and tweeter, one or the other will sound bad. If you connect your coaxial speaker to the "sub" feed then your treble will sound terrible. If you connect to the tweeter feed then you will have no bass at all.

If you can't find the correct component style speakers (not a common thing in 6x9 size) then perhaps your best bet is to get a pair of 2-way coaxial speakers and modify them to separate the tweeter input and connect that to the other pair of factory wires.

mmm88ta

iTrader: (1)

I've read through the thread but still have a question:

I just bought a 2000 Camaro Conv. the front right speaker is blown and I plan on replacing it and keeping the stock HU and monsoon amp for the time being, I may upgrade the HU in the near future but it is low on the list for now.

Can I just buy some 6.5 coaxial speakers and hook them up in the stock position? Will they only be getting low end? Does that matter if the separate tweeters are still in place?

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

This has been discussed countless times already... as recently as two days ago: https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...lacements.html

Bottom line, you can install coaxial speakers but you will give up half of the available power in each door. Make sure you connect to the wiring pair that goes to the factory mid - it gets full-range signal whereas the tweeter wires are high pass filtered.