Fabbed up a 10" sub Stealth Enclosure
#1
Fabbed up a 10" sub Stealth Enclosure
Hi guys,
In reference to a problem one of my customers had (Dimitri-) with an enclosure he purchased from someone and it didn't come close to fitting...I decided to fab one up for him and figured I'd post a few pics of it.
I think it turned out ok and it sounds great!! It is your typical fiberglass, mdf face with a "milkshake" coating on the outside. I also used spray on truckbed coating instead of standard paint...like Mike did on another recent install he did. I had thought about doing that but you confirmed that it was a good idea..thanks Mike!!
Here's the link to the enclosure that Dimitri bought...apparently the person wouldn't take it back even though it didn't fit...oh well.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/wiring-stereo-electronics/764465-new-subthump-box-im-guessing-doesnt-fit.html
Here's the pics of the one I made for him. It's not perfect but for a rush job it turned out pretty well. For the record that CDT sub sounds amazing!! I know I'm biased but it is a great SQ sub!!
In reference to a problem one of my customers had (Dimitri-) with an enclosure he purchased from someone and it didn't come close to fitting...I decided to fab one up for him and figured I'd post a few pics of it.
I think it turned out ok and it sounds great!! It is your typical fiberglass, mdf face with a "milkshake" coating on the outside. I also used spray on truckbed coating instead of standard paint...like Mike did on another recent install he did. I had thought about doing that but you confirmed that it was a good idea..thanks Mike!!
Here's the link to the enclosure that Dimitri bought...apparently the person wouldn't take it back even though it didn't fit...oh well.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/wiring-stereo-electronics/764465-new-subthump-box-im-guessing-doesnt-fit.html
Here's the pics of the one I made for him. It's not perfect but for a rush job it turned out pretty well. For the record that CDT sub sounds amazing!! I know I'm biased but it is a great SQ sub!!
#2
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looks really good
what kinda air space did ya end up with? the usual .6 or more/less?
are you gonna start mass production or build to order for these? you might be a busy man
lastly, i gotta get up with you for my rear fill!! can't decide which cdt i wanna get the cl or the hd?? i have Image Dynamics 6 1/2 2 ohm components for the front and my amp is a PPI white art series a400. help me decide
jman
what kinda air space did ya end up with? the usual .6 or more/less?
are you gonna start mass production or build to order for these? you might be a busy man
lastly, i gotta get up with you for my rear fill!! can't decide which cdt i wanna get the cl or the hd?? i have Image Dynamics 6 1/2 2 ohm components for the front and my amp is a PPI white art series a400. help me decide
jman
#3
I ended up with a little over .6 but not much. I actually used a Vantage enclosure I have as a model. The fit is perfect!! I was very impressed with the CDT sub as well...hit like a W3 but tighter. For the record this was a VERY light weight enclosure. The difference was very noticeable vs. my subthumps. I told Dimitri to let everyone know his impressions when he gets it tommorrow. That way we get an unbiased opinion. He is using an Infinity sub though. Should be interesting...he is also using a 1500watt class D monoblock amp...I got a great deal on it so I passed the savings to him. He WILL be setting the gains low...lol!! It was overkill but it was cheaper than others with lower wattage so...! I will make them to order as needed if anyone is interested.
If you are running an aftermarket amp to the sails...you want the HD M-6 or the standard HD-6 would sound great as well they run at $180.00!! They both really shine with aftermarket power. I have run the CL-6E and the CL-E6CF on aftermarket power and both do very well for good midbass kickdrum but if your after more than that..go with the HD M-6 or standard HD-6. If you have just Monsoon power I'd recommend the any of the CL line. They do well with less power and still maintain clarity at high volume!!
If you are running an aftermarket amp to the sails...you want the HD M-6 or the standard HD-6 would sound great as well they run at $180.00!! They both really shine with aftermarket power. I have run the CL-6E and the CL-E6CF on aftermarket power and both do very well for good midbass kickdrum but if your after more than that..go with the HD M-6 or standard HD-6. If you have just Monsoon power I'd recommend the any of the CL line. They do well with less power and still maintain clarity at high volume!!
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I cant wait to get it tomorrow! I will definitely post up of how it goes.
When I was tracking it, the package said 9.5 lbs (WITH SHIPPING BOX!) ! Lol The one I have now w/o the sub is like 15 lbs!
Ill take some pics w/ my crummy cell too
When I was tracking it, the package said 9.5 lbs (WITH SHIPPING BOX!) ! Lol The one I have now w/o the sub is like 15 lbs!
Ill take some pics w/ my crummy cell too
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AND HERE IT IS!
The Amp.. Sound Storm Lab 1500W
The Sub.. and Box (finally).. 10' Infinity Kappa Perfect 1400W Max
And Both = KICK. ***.
Thank you Ian! Fits perfect and super light! Wouldnt've been able to do any of it without ya!
And good luck with that JL lol :\
The Amp.. Sound Storm Lab 1500W
The Sub.. and Box (finally).. 10' Infinity Kappa Perfect 1400W Max
And Both = KICK. ***.
Thank you Ian! Fits perfect and super light! Wouldnt've been able to do any of it without ya!
And good luck with that JL lol :\
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#9
The Infinity Kappa Series Perfect 10 is actually a 75-400watt rms subwoofer and has a 1600watt peak rating that I think is a bit much peak rating for a sub that has 400watt rms rating.
That amp is 540watts rms @ 4ohms x 1. 1000watts @ 2ohms x1 and is a 1ohm stable amplifier if needed. So they match up pretty well, and the amp has plenty of room for adjustment.
That amp is 540watts rms @ 4ohms x 1. 1000watts @ 2ohms x1 and is a 1ohm stable amplifier if needed. So they match up pretty well, and the amp has plenty of room for adjustment.
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kee audio, you should post up a how-to for building a fiberglass box like that. (not trying to take business from you, but for those of us that like doing our own stuff, it would help a lot!)
#13
There are already a few how to's already with pics and all available. Mine really isn't anything special as far as fabrication goes. It's very basic fiberglassing skills. More info involving enclosure building using fiberglass and other useful info on F-body systems can be found at Fbodyaudio.com. Mike (DJ Sexay) is a member here who also builds his own enclosures has a write up on the site. He is also competitive in IASCA with his insane Firehawk.
#15
Currently I'm doing them for $109.00 plus shipping. You can put your own sub in or I can get a sub for you as well for an additional cost depending on the sub. Average cost for one with a sub included (like the CDT 10" sub above) is $199.00 plus shipping costs. I can also make them with the square opening for an L7 Kicker. For people on a stricter budget I have less expensive subs that can work as well. PM me or email me if interested!! I'd be happy to help you out!!
#18
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Just thought I'd throw in...I got one of those CDT subs (just a DVC version so I could run it at 2 ohms) and it's in that JL box that was in question from Ian...it fits my Camaro well and the sub sounds really really good. If you look at a TA and a Camaro it's easy to see where the major difference is in fit of boxes. The TA has a standalone independant sorta spoiler and it's rear quarter panels swoop downward where the Camaro spoiler flows into the quarter panels which never swoop downward as they head backwards. The additional room in the Camaro is all up high in the rearmost part. That box is definitely a JL box, and it slid right into my car first try, the plastic trim panel popped right back in above it.
And like I said, that CDT sub really does sound great.
And like I said, that CDT sub really does sound great.
#20
Alot of my customers don't have a ton of money so I have to make something work within their budget and I usually pull it off for them within or under their intended budget. Not everyone has $500.00-$1000.00 to go spend on a system. I just try to get it done with what they have to work with.