Door panel speaker question
10-04-2007, 01:45 PM
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Door panel speaker question Alright, I am no car audio expert, or even close to it. I have read the stickies and searched other threads and went from knowing nothing about the Monsoon system to now understanding it fairly well; thanks for all that info.
I understand the tweeters on the door speakers are 4 ohm and run by the head unit, and the sub part of it are 2 ohm and run by the amp. I read the post by tuffluck and a few others on how to splice a new speaker and make it work. Why would I not be able to just by a 6 1/2 2 ohm speaker and just use the wires supplying the 2 ohms from the amp? If the complete new speaker(tweeter and sub) are 2 ohm, wouldn't it work?
I understand the tweeters on the door speakers are 4 ohm and run by the head unit, and the sub part of it are 2 ohm and run by the amp. I read the post by tuffluck and a few others on how to splice a new speaker and make it work. Why would I not be able to just by a 6 1/2 2 ohm speaker and just use the wires supplying the 2 ohms from the amp? If the complete new speaker(tweeter and sub) are 2 ohm, wouldn't it work?
10-04-2007, 02:46 PM
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most aftermarket speakers/components are 4 ohm though. your best bet is getting a 4 channel amp and running some nice components in the front and a decent set of coaxials in the back. say the hell with all the monsoon crap. you will be amazed how much better it will sound, even without any type of sub. monsoon is a hoopty *** system tho, luckily i found out early on, thats its not worth putting much money into, better off to start new and ditch that crap.
others will chime in im sure, IMO get rid of it. good luck w/e u do
others will chime in im sure, IMO get rid of it. good luck w/e u do
10-04-2007, 03:14 PM
#3
So far I've ditched the monsoon HU and all the speakers (half them were blown anyway). Still using the stock monsoon amp though, haven't messed with rewiring anything yet. If I do I'll loose the subs since I don't have any amp for those besides the monsoon (and no money now to buy a real amp and sub either).
Even if you do keep the monsoon amp in there though, I can say that replacing the HU and speakers makes a big difference already. I wired my front speakers up and left the tweeter connection out of it. Didn't feel like chopping up my speakers when I'll eventually get the monsoon amp bypassed anyway.
Even if you do keep the monsoon amp in there though, I can say that replacing the HU and speakers makes a big difference already. I wired my front speakers up and left the tweeter connection out of it. Didn't feel like chopping up my speakers when I'll eventually get the monsoon amp bypassed anyway.
10-04-2007, 04:18 PM
#4
What you read about Monsoon wiring applies to Firebirds. In Camaro Monsoon systems, all speakers (including the tweeters) are powered by the amp - nothing is powered directly by the head unit. The problem with using coaxials on a single channel in the doors is that the signal is filtered so you will lose bass or treble depending on which pair of wires you connect to.
Splitting the tweeter from the woofer in the coaxials is not as difficult as it sounds (on most coaxial speakers). Another option is the CDT component set that is set up just like the factory speakers with the tweeter inside the woofer. Check with Ian (Kee Audio) about getting a set.
Splitting the tweeter from the woofer in the coaxials is not as difficult as it sounds (on most coaxial speakers). Another option is the CDT component set that is set up just like the factory speakers with the tweeter inside the woofer. Check with Ian (Kee Audio) about getting a set.
10-04-2007, 06:16 PM
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if you upgrade to some nicer components, i would check out Elemental Designs 6000's, i have them in the front of my car and will soon be putting them in the back with their new 6800's in the front.
they are an excellent driver and allow you to pull out the phase plug and run the tweeter in the middle like whitebird is referring to. i have them setup like this in my T/A cause i was too lazy to fab some tweeter mounts for the stock location and it hasnt seemed to effect my imaging too much. they are a great option for camaro guys looking to step up to a nice set of components, greatly priced too.
they are an excellent driver and allow you to pull out the phase plug and run the tweeter in the middle like whitebird is referring to. i have them setup like this in my T/A cause i was too lazy to fab some tweeter mounts for the stock location and it hasnt seemed to effect my imaging too much. they are a great option for camaro guys looking to step up to a nice set of components, greatly priced too.
10-04-2007, 08:43 PM
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Alright, don't take this as trying to be dumb and stubborn, just trying to learn a little. It seems as though a speaker such as this http://www.crutchfield.com/S-m1GTAgw...86022SI&tp=105 would work just fine on the amp wiring. Whitebird00, by saying "the problem with using coaxials on a single channel in the doors is that the signal is filtered so you will lose bass or trebble depending on which pair of wires you connect to", do you basically mean that I'm trying to split up the input for one speaker into two? Also, posted here by tuffluck https://ls1tech.com/forums/wiring-stereo-electronics/126979-those-wanting-only-upgrade-speakers-camaro-s-come-here.html the tweeter and sub on the Camaro are powered separately. KEE AUDIO, I might end up taking you up on those speakers. Thanks for all your input and help.
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10-05-2007, 07:34 PM
#8
The tweeter and woofer in the doors of a Camaro are powered by separate channels of the Monsoon amp (unlike a Firebird coupe which has the door tweeters powered by the head unit). That means that there are four speaker wires in each door - two for the woofer and two for the tweeter. If you try to connect an ordinary coaxial speaker, you have to choose one pair or the other. The problem is that the Monsoon amp has a high-pass filter on the tweeter wires and a low-pass filter on the woofer wires. So, you will lose either bass or treble depending on which pair you connect.
10-05-2007, 08:57 PM
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Thanks for taking the time to explain, I understand it now. I think I will be getting up with KEE AUDIO about a set of speakers, the HU and amp will have to wait a bit.
