"Big Three"
11-01-2007, 05:26 PM
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"Big Three" I am having problems with my system shutting itself off. I already know that it is because my alternator isn't recharging the battery fast enough, but will replacing the "big three" help the problem w/o having to buy a more powerful alternator? Also, it's not like it cuts out all the time, just after idling at a light for awhile or too low of rpm's. Thanks
11-01-2007, 09:23 PM
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ok, so the system shuts off, but the rest of the car is fine ?
How do you "know" it's because the alternator is not charging the battery fast enough ? So your system is truly drawing so much power that not only does the battery have to fill back up the alternator for peak transients, but is used so heavily that the voltage drops so low as to turn the system off ? If that is the case, then not only will you need a HUGE alternator to keep up with the demand, but your battery is toast as well from all of the discharge, recharge cycling it's been going through.
Upgrading some wires is not going to cure this problem, if the problem truly is because of too much current draw from the alternator. What amps do you have that are using this much power ?
How do you "know" it's because the alternator is not charging the battery fast enough ? So your system is truly drawing so much power that not only does the battery have to fill back up the alternator for peak transients, but is used so heavily that the voltage drops so low as to turn the system off ? If that is the case, then not only will you need a HUGE alternator to keep up with the demand, but your battery is toast as well from all of the discharge, recharge cycling it's been going through.
Upgrading some wires is not going to cure this problem, if the problem truly is because of too much current draw from the alternator. What amps do you have that are using this much power ?
11-01-2007, 10:24 PM
#6
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11-02-2007, 09:55 AM
#8
The "Big Three" upgrade means improving the current capacity of three cables: 1) alternator positive to battery positive, 2) battery negative to chassis, and 3) engine ground to chassis. Most people replace the factory wiring but some add additional cables to the factory wiring.
I agree with Mike - the cabling is not your problem. Certainly it won't hurt to do the upgrade but it definitely won't solve your current problem (pun intended). The big clue is that it only happens at low rpm. That means that the cables are quite capable of handling the charging at higher engine speeds. Cable resistance doesn't change with engine speed but alternator output does. The problem is that your alternator isn't putting out enough current at low engine speed. Upgrading the cables won't change that - only upgrading the alternator will.
I agree with Mike - the cabling is not your problem. Certainly it won't hurt to do the upgrade but it definitely won't solve your current problem (pun intended). The big clue is that it only happens at low rpm. That means that the cables are quite capable of handling the charging at higher engine speeds. Cable resistance doesn't change with engine speed but alternator output does. The problem is that your alternator isn't putting out enough current at low engine speed. Upgrading the cables won't change that - only upgrading the alternator will.
11-05-2007, 09:31 AM
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sorry guys for not responding, i had some urgent family matters out of town. anyway, mike, i was pretty sure that it was the alternator but my batter is and interstate or some crappy thing and it sat in my totalled car for almost a year until i recharged it. but to answer your question, all that im running is a 1000 mono diamond amp that is powering a diamond d6 10" at 1 ohm. and i have a diamond 400x4 powering two sets of diamond d66i components. i will do the big three upgrade this weekend but i think i need a new battery
11-05-2007, 11:09 AM
#10
you should have no problem powering that setup
my buddies 97 TA on stock alternator, with big 3
is running 2 BP1200.1 amps and a 4 channel. The substage is 2400watts rms alone, so way more then your car is pulling and he is fine
my buddies 97 TA on stock alternator, with big 3
is running 2 BP1200.1 amps and a 4 channel. The substage is 2400watts rms alone, so way more then your car is pulling and he is fine
11-05-2007, 11:49 AM
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good, so hopefully the big three will help me out. do you know what gauge he use for the alternator power wire and the battery ground wire? thanks
11-05-2007, 01:37 PM
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yeah i have a feeling that the battery is bad but ill get it checked out. either way, i would still like to know what gauge wire to use for the upgrade and where the battery to ground is located. thanks
11-05-2007, 08:13 PM
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battery to ground should be right at the battery. The grounding point on the chassis is right there, and the stock cable is about 10 or 8 guage, and is less then 10" long if I remember correct.
11-05-2007, 09:26 PM
#18
with that much power id go 4 or 2 gauge, as far as the system shutting off, check all of your wires, also what kind of head unit do you have, that could be taking a **** on you...
11-05-2007, 10:51 PM
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my system was doing that with a stock batt i now have the purple haze orbital with stock alt and a 10fcap powering one TS-W3004SPL premeer 12 with my alpine mrd-m1000 and at idle bass the lights berly dim and the volts dont drop past 12.9
11-05-2007, 11:29 PM
#20
2400 watts is about 170 amps of current... those amps are definately struggling to make power.