senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

So im going around the roundabout on the highway,I get on the staightaway and theres a vette like a half car length ahead of me on the left. We both drop the hammer down and of course im in the shitty dead spot on the auto and the car didnt pull for ****. It took 2 sec before I knew it wasnt gonna pull hard so I let off the gas cause he was pullin my *** in that 6 spd.

Im sick of this dead spot on the highway
Its time to stall this bitch!

Sticks n Stones

Seriously? You do realize that a stall will slow you down at freeway speeds, right? It's true it will help during the dead spot right above where it will not downshift into 2nd, but that's it. I lost exactly 1 carlength from 55-120mph when I went with my stall. Made up for it on the bottom though- and then some!

Just pick your races and know when it will not downshift- and at what mph YOU should not manually downshift it.

projectX

iTrader: (51)

Yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeah stall that sucker! Dead spots blow! Just did 373's in my A4 and 3rd gear lag is a ****.

Speeyuk

I don't want this to be a hijack, but I have a total noob question, but is the 2010 A6 tranny worth mating to an LS1? Will it even work?

Sticks n Stones

Anything can be made to work, but that said: no, it will not work, not even a little bit unless youu adapted the entire wiring harness and computer into it.

Arc00TA

iTrader: (17)

From what I've seen the tranny is physically too large as well, and will take some modifying of the transmission tunnel. It is much fatter than the 4L60/80.

Anyways to the OP, that problem right there is one of the ones that convince me time after time to swap my A4 cars to M6. Stalled is fun and all, but I sit in traffic and heat up and never do dig races. It just doesn't make sense to me. I kept losing to crappy cars on the highway because it wouldn't come out of 3rd gear any time after like 40mph, just chug chug chug no downshift.

IZRED

To the OP, if you ain't got it done yet, get a tune. I had an auto. and once I got my tune my dead spot went away.

camaroboy14

iTrader: (8)

some may not believe this ,but i agree with a tune. before my tune i was running a 14.2, in Las Vegas. After my tune i ran a 12.94 in CA. and my car pulls through every gear firm.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Trying to beat an equally modded M6 vette from a roll without 50-100 more hp then him is gonna be a lose lose for you. He is lighter, more aerodynamic, and a manual. The higher the mph goes, the harder it is for an auto to win. The reason they dominate at the track with E.T.s is bc you get out far enough ahead right from the beginning and an equally modded M6 cannot chase you down so you win the race. They will be catching you on the back half of the track though. You just have to have enough lead to hold them off until you cross the lights. On the freeway, you have no saving grace. The higher the speed the worst its gonna be. If you met this same vette, who we know has a faster car, gave both of you DRs, and you a converter, and you raced at the track or from a redlight, my money would be on you hands down.

A stalled car is the faster car period. Yes aftermarket stalls tend to be slightly less efficient on the top end then a stock converter but that doesn't make them slower. At all but WOT 4th gear pulls to max speed the aftermarket converter will win.

So you were trying to win races with a broken (meaning not functioning correctly) transmission and so that makes all autos suck?

Untuned car with a stall > tuned car with a stock stall

I dont know why your car was running 14s to begin with. Stock autos here run 13.5-13.7s and cars typically run slower around this area IMO. But most people dont gain a second with tuning alone on a basically stock car. Most people do however, drop over a second in E.T. with a stall and DRs.

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

01ssreda4...So given the same scenario as originaly posted how would the auto react differently with the aftermarket tc vs the stock one? Im not asking if I would have beaten the vette 6spd Im wondering how much better the auto would have done. We were probly about 50-65 mph range.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

I feel like you would have done better. Still likely wouldnt have won, but you woulda put up a better fight. I have stayed even with M6 cars who trap at least 5-7 mph faster then me racing under 70 mph. 20-60mph runs or 30-70 runs, we were even. I have started a race (in higher part of 2nd) and went 50-100mph and lost. In 3rd gear we just dont have any damn pull. Thats where we start to lose, or start to really lose. With an equally modded car, (you stalled) you should be able to pull an M6 in 1st, at least stay even in 2nd and the first little bit of third, and then lose the rest of 3rd gear and 4th if the race lasted that long. If you had a stock converter, you would probably lose every gear if the m6 driver knew how to drive.

Mike Morris

iTrader: (55)

Tune and stall here. No dead spot and pretty fast on rolls.

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

Makes me wanna get rid of this auto. We were in that 45-65 mph range and 2 sec after I punched it I was like wtf and let off. I saw how much he was pullin and I was like **** this.Its strange because there will be times that it does pull pretty good but of course this time when it counted it let me down. This auto **** is pissin me off. Its not to often that I get a oportunity to race from a dig on the street so whats the point of an auto unless its a track car? Disapointing

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Making the trans downshift like that is super hard on it. It could be slipping from age/wear. Try this: drive about 20 mph or so and pull your gear selector into 2. That will force it to engage 2nd gear while at part throttle. The clutches should be able to grip well. Now, slowly go faster until you get to about 4k rpm, at 4k punch it to the floor. It should pull better. Remember you have selected 2nd gear only so it wont shift. Be sure to click the shifter up one click to Drive right after you punch it. Experiencing this will show you how the car pulls when the clutches can engage under no load, or what it pulls like when they are trying to grip under WOT conditions. I very rarely make mine downshift like what you described. Its a quick way to leave pieces of 4l60 on the hwy.

Sticks n Stones

how the hell can you honestly say that a high stalled auto is FASTER from a high roll than a stock converter? You are aware how a stall works, and that the heat is a byproduct of the inherent inefficiency of a big stall? HP converted to heat due to the slippage- similiar to the what happens when you ride a clutch in an stick shift.

You are talking out your *** and know it: a car going from stock stall to high stall will ALWAYS lose mph in the 1/4 mile, no matter if it gains a much lower ET. Seriously, go onto the tech section and tell them that and see what happens!

As for me? I did it my test the old fashioned way: ran a friend who is normally dead even with me multiple times the day before, installed the converter, then ran him multiple times again. Results? 50, 60, 70mph starts too 120+mph: He immediately started progressive pulls and ended up 1 to 1 1/4 cars ahead. The lower the speed of start, the longer I held off his pull. 35mph start: dead even (he was on slicks) then he slowly started his pulls starting around the top of second. 20mph and dig: The converter did its job and I jumped out 1/2 car from 20mph, and a tad over 1 car on the dig- with me on sticky street tires, him on ET Streets (non radial).

So, the biggest benefit other than dig racing that I found was the ability to negate most of the dead spot from 32-45mph where the car will not downshift. A bit of help at the 72-85mph deadspot also. And the fact that the high stall scares off most of my potential victims when they hear it.

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

Well if thats true that a higher stall will make it worse with highway speeds vs the stock tc then im ready to sell this thing and get a 6spd.

Sticks n Stones

Seriously? You are ready to go through all that but you arent willing to mod your damned car up instead and just make it faster overall??

I race GTO's and LS1 Fbodies all the time: Being normally the only one with a stalled auto is actually pretty damned cool. Just the look on there faces when we are lining up for a dig race is priceless! Total concentration with worry creases across there foreheads and sweat trickling down as they line up with me. They usually spin, jump the gun, or bog as they try to negate my well known advantage. Then we do rolls, and it's ME doing the worrying. I've never lost in a race against a GTO, even a LT, CAI, tune LS2 M6 GTO from a 70mph roll. Not to mention the numerous full bolton M6 LS1 Fbodies and vettes I've gone door to door with or beat.

Take advantage of what you have and you will be happy. Bitch about this n that, and you will never be happy because we all know that as soon as you get your M6 car you will find yourself in dig race after dig race- it's called Karma. lol

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

my car gained 2mph in worse weather from stock stall to yank ss3600

my car feels much stronger from every speed since the stall

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

When you gained your 2mph the only mod was the stall?

Badguy7

iTrader: (6)

OP, when your going to do any roll racing in your A4. Try and keep the car below 30mph, so it'll downshift back into 1st or right at 60mph. It'll downshift itself there again, anything between 30 & 60mph, is a dead spot in your auto.

I always hated that problem, so now i try and get the roll races below 30mph if i can. I hardly ever end up with highway rolls but if i did. I would go for 60mph.