TBSS vs 6.0 Chevy then a SS Cobalt
08-03-2012, 05:52 PM
#1
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TBSS vs 6.0 Chevy then a SS Cobalt Ran a few wed night, first up was a single cab short bed 6.0 his mods were, heads, big cam, built 4L60E. My mods are heads, big cam, and burnt up stock transmission, have to let completely outa it for it to shift.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?nomobile=1&v=zyjURxi5yjs
Then me and a turbo cobalt from a 40 roll not sure of his mods his buddy said he's about 380whp. He really walks me when I try and get it into 3rd. I just gave up. Tried to get him to go from a 75 roll (I know
) but thats the point where it will stay in 3rd he still would have pulled but not as bad.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?nomobile=1&v=Borft5mJoRU
Sorry for the shitty videos I tried to get them on my gopro but everybody kept getting on my pass side. I ran a bolt on WS6 and beat him also but it's on my gopro I'll post it later.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?nomobile=1&v=zyjURxi5yjs
Then me and a turbo cobalt from a 40 roll not sure of his mods his buddy said he's about 380whp. He really walks me when I try and get it into 3rd. I just gave up. Tried to get him to go from a 75 roll (I know
) but thats the point where it will stay in 3rd he still would have pulled but not as bad.http://www.youtube.com/watch?nomobile=1&v=Borft5mJoRU
Sorry for the shitty videos I tried to get them on my gopro but everybody kept getting on my pass side. I ran a bolt on WS6 and beat him also but it's on my gopro I'll post it later.
08-03-2012, 10:09 PM
#5
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Yea I don't want a transmission but NEED one! I'm 2wd, and put down 395rwhp with a unlocked converter and Trans slipping in 3rd. You could hear it slip and see it on the graph I'll try and get a pic of it. Thanks for the complements!
08-03-2012, 11:13 PM
#6
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Here is me and the bolt on Fbody, when he comes around me is where I try and get in 3rd. Car is a strong runner think his best 1/8th is a 7.7 or 7.8.
http://youtu.be/lYXz4eOgdDs
http://youtu.be/lYXz4eOgdDs
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08-04-2012, 01:01 PM
#8
Staging Lane
trans didn't sound like it was slipping other then at the shift. Two things you can try before rebuilding it:
1. install a deep trans pan first. hard launches on a 4l60 or 4l65 tend to force all the fluid up into the tail shaft on RWD setups which I assume yours is. Adding 2 quarts to the pan capacity fixes that issue, ask me how I know.
2. if it is the bands slipping, a solid bandaid to keep it shifting hard up until it's completely shot is using a quart or more of either Hurst ?quickshift? shift improver fluid or save the money and just buy Ford Type F trans fluid (which is all the Hurst stuff is). It has less shift modifiers which enables worn out clutchs to grap versus the GM fluid that is so friggin slick that clutch bands start slipping prematurely. Gotta trust me on this, I've done it quite a few times on turbo 350's, 700R4's, and two different 4L60E transmissions (one in a 4x4, one in a 1999 Z28). Worked in all of them, couple lasted a few years (both vehicles of mine I used it in, '78 Z28 and '89 Suburban tow rig) only one rig it didn't work on, trans was too far gone to be saved...
I learned to use B&M Trickshift from one a mag back in the early 90's and it's held true ever since. Later read that B&M Trickshift was merely rebadged Type F fluid which was why they didn't offer a Trickshift bottle for Fords.
1. install a deep trans pan first. hard launches on a 4l60 or 4l65 tend to force all the fluid up into the tail shaft on RWD setups which I assume yours is. Adding 2 quarts to the pan capacity fixes that issue, ask me how I know.
2. if it is the bands slipping, a solid bandaid to keep it shifting hard up until it's completely shot is using a quart or more of either Hurst ?quickshift? shift improver fluid or save the money and just buy Ford Type F trans fluid (which is all the Hurst stuff is). It has less shift modifiers which enables worn out clutchs to grap versus the GM fluid that is so friggin slick that clutch bands start slipping prematurely. Gotta trust me on this, I've done it quite a few times on turbo 350's, 700R4's, and two different 4L60E transmissions (one in a 4x4, one in a 1999 Z28). Worked in all of them, couple lasted a few years (both vehicles of mine I used it in, '78 Z28 and '89 Suburban tow rig) only one rig it didn't work on, trans was too far gone to be saved...
I learned to use B&M Trickshift from one a mag back in the early 90's and it's held true ever since. Later read that B&M Trickshift was merely rebadged Type F fluid which was why they didn't offer a Trickshift bottle for Fords.
08-04-2012, 01:04 PM
#9
Staging Lane
BTW this is my run versus a SWB single cab ls equipped truck (had headers and cam, don't know what else). Listen to my shifts, this was last straw before the trans pan desperation install. Now it hits just like new again, spinning the 2/3 shift again instead of the clutchs spinning against each other.
08-04-2012, 01:24 PM
#10
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Get that trans fixed. W/ heads and cam the cobalt shouldnt walk you like that. i raced one that was tuned and aftermarket turbo piping and down pipe and I was stock and walked me like that.
08-04-2012, 01:49 PM
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with the Cobalt SS Turbos it really depends on the tune. some tunes only make 390-310whp and others can make 330-360whp. Also our torque numbers r usually higher or super close to our hp numbers.
08-04-2012, 02:19 PM
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Thanks and yea it def does. ON a 91 octane on my old 22PSI i made 295/321. Then went full bolt-ons and retuned on a safe 24PSI on 93 made 317/340. Now on a very aggressive 26PSI tapping off to 24PSI on 93 made plenty more power.
08-04-2012, 02:25 PM
#14
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I know the cobalt has a few bolt ons and a tune his buddy said he's at 380fwhp I bet even with a good Trans he might take me I'm prolly about 420 or so with a good Trans and better tune. Iv tried the type f fluid but havnt changed it completely yet, it's a bone stock 4L70e with 100k on it so I figured it was time to build it anyway I have a deep pan that's going on when I do.
08-04-2012, 04:27 PM
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08-04-2012, 04:40 PM
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08-04-2012, 06:43 PM
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