2013 E/P/T C6ZRJuan vs 2010 E/P/T/B/G GT500
#241
Teching In
I usually can't tell sarcasm, but if you are serious, decipha and Eric from HP Tuners last month have said that they have completely mapped out all of the EEC-V V8 mustangs from 1999 - 2004. They just have to make a compatible physical interface to a laptop.
https://svtperformance.com/forums/th...under.1135998/
https://svtperformance.com/forums/th...under.1135998/
#243
Teching In
Decipha has a good website with a LOT of free material for those who are wanting to tune their older mustangs: http://www.efidynotuning.com/
Their forums are pretty active. The website itself is kind of archaically designed, however, if you just peruse and use the tiny blue links at the top, you can educate yourself. A lot of this stuff still pertains to the newer stuff.
His forum: http://forum.efidynotuning.com/index.php
Their forums are pretty active. The website itself is kind of archaically designed, however, if you just peruse and use the tiny blue links at the top, you can educate yourself. A lot of this stuff still pertains to the newer stuff.
His forum: http://forum.efidynotuning.com/index.php
#245
7 Second Club
Thread Starter
#246
TECH Enthusiast
Decipha has a good website with a LOT of free material for those who are wanting to tune their older mustangs: http://www.efidynotuning.com/
Their forums are pretty active. The website itself is kind of archaically designed, however, if you just peruse and use the tiny blue links at the top, you can educate yourself. A lot of this stuff still pertains to the newer stuff.
His forum: http://forum.efidynotuning.com/index.php
Their forums are pretty active. The website itself is kind of archaically designed, however, if you just peruse and use the tiny blue links at the top, you can educate yourself. A lot of this stuff still pertains to the newer stuff.
His forum: http://forum.efidynotuning.com/index.php
#247
Man do I like that site. I will admit to one tuning issue. Hot restart. I'm having to add throttle to start when hot. It won't start when hot with just a key turn. I might find a parameter that will help. It bugs me to do anything besides turn the key on a fuel injected engine.
#249
Not familiar with that one. But in megasquirt there is a setting for warm start called cranking pulsewidth. I copied this from there manual.....
Cranking Pulse Widths:
The cranking pulse width at -40°F should be about 3 to 5 times the 170°F value.
If you over-estimate the correct values, you WILL flood the engine.
To begin, set the -40°F cranking pulse width to about 88% of your "upper" req_fuel value, and the 170°F cranking pulse width to about 23% of your req_fuel. Those should get you 'in the ball park' for starting.
Once you have the engine running, you can tune the cranking pulse widths with small changes, moving them up or down together, and check it over a few days worth of starts before deciding which direction to go next. Remember that the cranking pulse widths need to be with ~0.5 milliseconds of the optimal value at both -40ºF and 170º F.
You move them up and down together, but not by the same amount. You want to keep the cold cranking pulse width about 3 to 5 times the hot cranking pulse width.
For example, suppose your reg_fuel was 14. Then you might start with a cold cranking PW of 12.3 and a hot cranking pulse width of 4.0. Suppose you try this and see it is too rich, and your temperature when you tried it was 40°F. So you need to lean it out (after making sure the engine hadn't flooded, in which case you would have to clean the plugs). You might try reducing your cold cranking pulse width by 0.8 milliseconds, to 11.5. You don't want to also reduce you hot cranking pulse width by 0.8. You really want to reduce it by the proportional amount you reduced the cold pulse width, which would be 0.8*(4.0/12.3) = 0.26 = 0.3. So you would reduce it to 3.7.
This maintains a reasonable ratio between the pulse widths. You don't have to calculate it each time though, just adjust the hot number by about 1/3 of the cold number, and you should stay 'in the ballpark'. Conversely, if you had to richen the pulse widths, you might add 0.8, and 0.3, etc.
Note that even in a 'piggy-back' application, do not set MegaSquirt®'s cranking pulse widths to zero. This will cause unpredictable pulse widths up to 13 milliseconds. Instead, set them to 0.1 milliseconds in that application. This allows very little fuel to flow.
It is very easy to flood the engine, especially when cold, without realizing it, and this can confuse your start tuning quite a lot. So it's better to start with low pulse widths and work your way up in small steps (lean cranking is much easier to recover from),
As you get closer to optimal cranking pulse widths, you can adjust just one of the hot or cold pulse widths a bit to fix particular starting issues - for example, if you have hot start issues, warm the engine up fully (ideally by driving, not idling) then shut it off and adjust only the hot pulse width slightly to get the best starting. You can do the same with cold start, but you can only do it on 'true' cold starts, which means that: a) you have to wait for a cold day, and b) you only get one test per day (starting it and shutting it off right away still warms the combustion chamber, etc, and basing your tuning on that will throw you off).
If your engine doesn't respond while cranking at all, try disconnecting the serial cable to the laptop from your MegaSquirt® controller. The power supply from the laptop may interfere with your MegaSquirt® controller at times, making the engine impossible to start. If you try to datalog a cranking attempt, and the datalog is blank, or you are getting resets (secL keeps dropping back to zero before reaching 255), then you likely need to disconnect the laptop while cranking. You should be able to reconnect after the engine is started, and tune/datalog normally, without any issues.
Most engines are quite sensitive to the cranking pulse widths, so you may need both pulse widths to be within about 0.5 milliseconds to start well under all conditions.
Make sure you have power while cranking, otherwise you are starting on your prime pulse, and will go crazy trying to tune it,
Keep the prime pulse short, less than 4.0, and ideally around 2.0, while tuning the cranking pulse widths.
Make sure you are not in flood clear mode while cranking,
Datalog your starting attempts using TunerStudioMS, and study them carefully, you will learn a lot,
Don't use EGO feedback to guide you on cranking pulse widths, it won't help you at all, and may confuse you a lot. Instead, use your subjective sense of how long it takes the engine to start at any temperature (you are seeking to minimize this, obviously)
The cranking pulse width at -40°F should be about 3 to 5 times the 170°F value.
If you over-estimate the correct values, you WILL flood the engine.
To begin, set the -40°F cranking pulse width to about 88% of your "upper" req_fuel value, and the 170°F cranking pulse width to about 23% of your req_fuel. Those should get you 'in the ball park' for starting.
Once you have the engine running, you can tune the cranking pulse widths with small changes, moving them up or down together, and check it over a few days worth of starts before deciding which direction to go next. Remember that the cranking pulse widths need to be with ~0.5 milliseconds of the optimal value at both -40ºF and 170º F.
You move them up and down together, but not by the same amount. You want to keep the cold cranking pulse width about 3 to 5 times the hot cranking pulse width.
For example, suppose your reg_fuel was 14. Then you might start with a cold cranking PW of 12.3 and a hot cranking pulse width of 4.0. Suppose you try this and see it is too rich, and your temperature when you tried it was 40°F. So you need to lean it out (after making sure the engine hadn't flooded, in which case you would have to clean the plugs). You might try reducing your cold cranking pulse width by 0.8 milliseconds, to 11.5. You don't want to also reduce you hot cranking pulse width by 0.8. You really want to reduce it by the proportional amount you reduced the cold pulse width, which would be 0.8*(4.0/12.3) = 0.26 = 0.3. So you would reduce it to 3.7.
This maintains a reasonable ratio between the pulse widths. You don't have to calculate it each time though, just adjust the hot number by about 1/3 of the cold number, and you should stay 'in the ballpark'. Conversely, if you had to richen the pulse widths, you might add 0.8, and 0.3, etc.
Note that even in a 'piggy-back' application, do not set MegaSquirt®'s cranking pulse widths to zero. This will cause unpredictable pulse widths up to 13 milliseconds. Instead, set them to 0.1 milliseconds in that application. This allows very little fuel to flow.
It is very easy to flood the engine, especially when cold, without realizing it, and this can confuse your start tuning quite a lot. So it's better to start with low pulse widths and work your way up in small steps (lean cranking is much easier to recover from),
As you get closer to optimal cranking pulse widths, you can adjust just one of the hot or cold pulse widths a bit to fix particular starting issues - for example, if you have hot start issues, warm the engine up fully (ideally by driving, not idling) then shut it off and adjust only the hot pulse width slightly to get the best starting. You can do the same with cold start, but you can only do it on 'true' cold starts, which means that: a) you have to wait for a cold day, and b) you only get one test per day (starting it and shutting it off right away still warms the combustion chamber, etc, and basing your tuning on that will throw you off).
If your engine doesn't respond while cranking at all, try disconnecting the serial cable to the laptop from your MegaSquirt® controller. The power supply from the laptop may interfere with your MegaSquirt® controller at times, making the engine impossible to start. If you try to datalog a cranking attempt, and the datalog is blank, or you are getting resets (secL keeps dropping back to zero before reaching 255), then you likely need to disconnect the laptop while cranking. You should be able to reconnect after the engine is started, and tune/datalog normally, without any issues.
Most engines are quite sensitive to the cranking pulse widths, so you may need both pulse widths to be within about 0.5 milliseconds to start well under all conditions.
Make sure you have power while cranking, otherwise you are starting on your prime pulse, and will go crazy trying to tune it,
Keep the prime pulse short, less than 4.0, and ideally around 2.0, while tuning the cranking pulse widths.
Make sure you are not in flood clear mode while cranking,
Datalog your starting attempts using TunerStudioMS, and study them carefully, you will learn a lot,
Don't use EGO feedback to guide you on cranking pulse widths, it won't help you at all, and may confuse you a lot. Instead, use your subjective sense of how long it takes the engine to start at any temperature (you are seeking to minimize this, obviously)
#250
10 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
You make no sense. It's obvious you have no clue.
I usually can't tell sarcasm, but if you are serious, decipha and Eric from HP Tuners last month have said that they have completely mapped out all of the EEC-V V8 mustangs from 1999 - 2004. They just have to make a compatible physical interface to a laptop.
https://svtperformance.com/forums/th...under.1135998/
https://svtperformance.com/forums/th...under.1135998/
Looks like others are glad to.
Decipha has a good website with a LOT of free material for those who are wanting to tune their older mustangs: http://www.efidynotuning.com/
Their forums are pretty active. The website itself is kind of archaically designed, however, if you just peruse and use the tiny blue links at the top, you can educate yourself. A lot of this stuff still pertains to the newer stuff.
His forum: http://forum.efidynotuning.com/index.php
Their forums are pretty active. The website itself is kind of archaically designed, however, if you just peruse and use the tiny blue links at the top, you can educate yourself. A lot of this stuff still pertains to the newer stuff.
His forum: http://forum.efidynotuning.com/index.php
Go to the link awpwer posted. You'll see I'm not the only one that wanted this. Furd tuning has been **** compared to gm stuff.
#252
7 Second Club
Thread Starter
#253
10 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
I didn't say there was anything wrong with the ecu. I said the software or lack of it for a typical user sucks.
As usual islander fails to comprehend. Also another post lacking the much important cfm gauge and blower tach. So much failure in his posts.
As usual islander fails to comprehend. Also another post lacking the much important cfm gauge and blower tach. So much failure in his posts.
#254
On The Tree
You make no sense. It's obvious you have no clue.
Please post cfm gauge and blower rpm tach please
Just think how much faster a bolt on ls6 would go if someone smaht got a hold of it.
One more time! I haven't ran muh blower car. Comprehension is not your strong point
I've been watching hpt for a good while now.....even waiting them out. I thought progress had kinda died on the okder models. Glad to see it hasn't.
Looks like others are glad to.
I'm not gonna eff with a bunch of different stuff like that. It needs to be like hpt/efilive.
Don't be dumb enough to believe sperm95. You have your own issues leaving the 12s wuth a built motor at the moment. He your dumbass could likely take some tips from snake as sorry as that 383 runs.
Go to the link awpwer posted. You'll see I'm not the only one that wanted this. Furd tuning has been **** compared to gm stuff.
Please post cfm gauge and blower rpm tach please
Just think how much faster a bolt on ls6 would go if someone smaht got a hold of it.
One more time! I haven't ran muh blower car. Comprehension is not your strong point
I've been watching hpt for a good while now.....even waiting them out. I thought progress had kinda died on the okder models. Glad to see it hasn't.
Looks like others are glad to.
I'm not gonna eff with a bunch of different stuff like that. It needs to be like hpt/efilive.
Don't be dumb enough to believe sperm95. You have your own issues leaving the 12s wuth a built motor at the moment. He your dumbass could likely take some tips from snake as sorry as that 383 runs.
Go to the link awpwer posted. You'll see I'm not the only one that wanted this. Furd tuning has been **** compared to gm stuff.
I bet over the years Doug has spent as much money as his car cost new in "bolt ons"
#255
7 Second Club
Thread Starter
PS . You are a typical inbred retard though.
#256
7 Second Club
Thread Starter
By "someone smart" Doug really means someone willing to put thousands and thousands of dollars into external mods, buy the most expensive parts available and spend 5+ years on R&D for their 'simple bolt on car that anybody could do in a weekend'
I bet over the years Doug has spent as much money as his car cost new in "bolt ons"
I bet over the years Doug has spent as much money as his car cost new in "bolt ons"
#257
By "someone smart" Doug really means someone willing to put thousands and thousands of dollars into external mods, buy the most expensive parts available and spend 5+ years on R&D for their 'simple bolt on car that anybody could do in a weekend'
I bet over the years Doug has spent as much money as his car cost new in "bolt ons"
I bet over the years Doug has spent as much money as his car cost new in "bolt ons"
I know you really meant: I was wrong and have nothing else to say.
It's my hope you learned something here, but we all know that's not true/not possible.
#258
TECH Enthusiast
inbred retard is too harsh for my sensibilities to handle in the internetz.
calling DUG an inbred retard is an insult to inbred retards everywhere.
will you please refrain from calling DUG an inbred retard in the future.
Thank You, Managment.
#259
7 Second Club
Thread Starter
islander i got to call you out for saying inbred retard.
inbred retard is too harsh for my sensibilities to handle in the internetz.
calling DUG an inbred retard is an insult to inbred retards everywhere.
will you please refrain from calling DUG an inbred retard in the future.
Thank You, Managment.
inbred retard is too harsh for my sensibilities to handle in the internetz.
calling DUG an inbred retard is an insult to inbred retards everywhere.
will you please refrain from calling DUG an inbred retard in the future.
Thank You, Managment.
I apologize to the inbred retards, I meant no disrespect to them using that term for Hio.
We all know hio is below them in intelligence and gene pool.
#260
10 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
By "someone smart" Doug really means someone willing to put thousands and thousands of dollars into external mods, buy the most expensive parts available and spend 5+ years on R&D for their 'simple bolt on car that anybody could do in a weekend'
I bet over the years Doug has spent as much money as his car cost new in "bolt ons"
I bet over the years Doug has spent as much money as his car cost new in "bolt ons"
How much $ can you spend on bolt ons dude? 50% of what i did buy was used. Then you have the homemade junk yall make fun of. How hard can it be be with used junk and homemade parts?
You're a typical bitch.
Now post that cfm gauge and blower rpm tach.
islander i got to call you out for saying inbred retard.
inbred retard is too harsh for my sensibilities to handle in the internetz.
calling DUG an inbred retard is an insult to inbred retards everywhere.
will you please refrain from calling DUG an inbred retard in the future.
Thank You, Managment.
inbred retard is too harsh for my sensibilities to handle in the internetz.
calling DUG an inbred retard is an insult to inbred retards everywhere.
will you please refrain from calling DUG an inbred retard in the future.
Thank You, Managment.
One would think as much as ***/in posts he would have some type of proof somewhere.