A4 Street-racers inside please.....
#1
A4 Street-racers inside please.....
First off, street-racing is bad and you shouldn't do it. But anyways...
What's your converter of choice (stall/str) and how hard can you leave with a prepped car and road?
What's your converter of choice (stall/str) and how hard can you leave with a prepped car and road?
#2
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if you strictly street race, i'd say DON'T get the converter i have (2.5str) because it just hits to goddam hard for the street. i can almost never launch to the full potential of the car ont the street, but most other cars cannot either so it is all relative. i usually have to take it easy out of the hole to avoid wheel spin and then lay into it after about 10 feet.
don't go lower than 3500 stall (99% of people will tell you this) and pick a stall that will compliment your tires too. if you only plan on running street tires get a lower str, if you are rolling out on et streets a higher str might help you.
search, this topic has been beaten to death.
prepped road= a whole different ballgame too.
don't go lower than 3500 stall (99% of people will tell you this) and pick a stall that will compliment your tires too. if you only plan on running street tires get a lower str, if you are rolling out on et streets a higher str might help you.
search, this topic has been beaten to death.
prepped road= a whole different ballgame too.
#4
sleeperstyle, running 275-17" m/t drag radials w/ 390rwhp heads/cam (extremely small cam) w 3.23s......about to get a fuddle 3600/2.2str (power really starts to come on strong at 34-3500rpms, spins to 6400)....wondering if i should raise stall and/or drop the str
and yes, ill always be dropping the tire pressure and heating them up well, using VHT if ive got it
i have searched a lot, but when most people see/hear street racing mentioned, they think of stoplight battles on street tires, from roll etc. im trying to find some first-hand experience (and i know theres a lot of us out there that do it the same way).
and yes, ill always be dropping the tire pressure and heating them up well, using VHT if ive got it
i have searched a lot, but when most people see/hear street racing mentioned, they think of stoplight battles on street tires, from roll etc. im trying to find some first-hand experience (and i know theres a lot of us out there that do it the same way).
#5
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Just starting to really mod my car, very interested in this topic. I've gone a few times and i've had nothing but sucess with the stock stall, but it is time to step up and race some more heavily modded (h/c, nitrous domestics and more fully built turbo imports) cars.
#6
re:
I have considered a stall b/c im interested in making my car faster, but I don't have alot of $$ at the time. I have asked and started threads about this question, but I have never really understood.... when driving regularly (not racing at all), when you give the throttle to go, does the car have to rev to 3500rpms before it moves... if so, wouldn't you burn out even when you don't want to?? ?? Also, how much is a 3500 stall and how much is installation cost roughly?
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#9
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that fuddle is probably fine, and good choice on the tires also they do hook . you might think that stall is too low of an rpm if you race the car alot, but you'll only realize this after having it for a couple months. if you just drive it around alot then it's probably a good rpm. hell, if i had the $ for a 12 bolt with 3.73's i'd be running a 4200 2.5str converter right now, but it'll be hell driving around with the 2.73's so im content with what i have. i actually upgraded from 3500 to 3800 after about a month so it isn't uncommon to try one and if you want more/less swap it out.
the stall just means that you have to give the car more gas (like 50% throttle instead of 20% throttle) to accelerate at the normal rate of traffic. the rpms will just "sit" higher when normally driving till it locks up, then it is the same as stock. it won't be as punchy normally driving, and will feel slower around town and whipping through traffic. once you go wot though, you'll understand why you bought it.
and like above, some people will swear by the lower stall. it is all in what you like and what you do with the car.
the stall just means that you have to give the car more gas (like 50% throttle instead of 20% throttle) to accelerate at the normal rate of traffic. the rpms will just "sit" higher when normally driving till it locks up, then it is the same as stock. it won't be as punchy normally driving, and will feel slower around town and whipping through traffic. once you go wot though, you'll understand why you bought it.
and like above, some people will swear by the lower stall. it is all in what you like and what you do with the car.
#11
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My old setup, MTI C1 hammer cam, Yank ST 3500 (2.5str), on 17" Nittos cut a 1.66 60' and did 7.68 in the 1/8th.....this is all thru stock manifolds and Y too.
However, on the street, there was abolutely no way I could even come close to that kinda launch, no matter what the prep I tried to the car AND road.
Those tires, with the slightly softer hit from the 2.2str, should work out a little better than my setup.
However, on the street, there was abolutely no way I could even come close to that kinda launch, no matter what the prep I tried to the car AND road.
Those tires, with the slightly softer hit from the 2.2str, should work out a little better than my setup.
#13
Originally Posted by sleeperstyle
that fuddle is probably fine, and good choice on the tires also they do hook . you might think that stall is too low of an rpm if you race the car alot, but you'll only realize this after having it for a couple months. if you just drive it around alot then it's probably a good rpm.
and like above, some people will swear by the lower stall. it is all in what you like and what you do with the car.
and like above, some people will swear by the lower stall. it is all in what you like and what you do with the car.
#14
Originally Posted by 1 BLOWN V8
3,600 to 3,800 or I would regret it if I didn't. But I am glad I went with the 3,200 with the 2.2 str.
#16
Originally Posted by 1 BLOWN V8
Very good launch on 30psi also. Also from a roll 20-30 MPH if I hammer it it hooks hard. Of course if I want to show boat I can smoke the heck out of them on demand.
Although I don't mind about the drive quality, that might be an overkill of looseness. I'm willing to bet my 275 MTs will out-hook the 315 Nittos too, so I might have even better luck.
#19
Originally Posted by sleeperstyle
the stall just means that you have to give the car more gas (like 50% throttle instead of 20% throttle) to accelerate at the normal rate of traffic. the rpms will just "sit" higher when normally driving till it locks up, then it is the same as stock. it won't be as punchy normally driving, and will feel slower around town and whipping through traffic. once you go wot though, you'll understand why you bought it.
Probably not a good idea for me to get one then, because my car is a daily driver and I rarely got WOT. And I really don't street race often. So, the stall would just make my car feel slower and would be more of a pain than anything.
#20
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Originally Posted by Formula_X
Probably not a good idea for me to get one then, because my car is a daily driver and I rarely got WOT. And I really don't street race often. So, the stall would just make my car feel slower and would be more of a pain than anything.
oh.. and my buddy has a stall on his 68 truck... 3200.... feels just like driving my car (stock)... so yes a stall is very streetable...