cudaeh

iTrader: (2)

Damn
Saw a co-working on the road on the way to work in his sock 07 mustang gt.
We just so happened to have two empty lanes in front of us at a stop light so we decided to go for a quick little run
well the light changed and I was a little too heavy off the clutch and spun the tires. Not too badly, by the time I had traction I was only at the back of his drivers door.
I chirped the tires going into second and gained a bit on him by then (front of drivers door) Then I smashed the syncros and was locked out of 3rd
so I shut down and we proceeded into work.
He has driven my car, he knows I bought it only a few months ago and haven’t had time to do much to it.
Talking with him later he just said 'third gear?'
I said 'yep that pro 5.0 shifter has got to go'

good bit of fun before work to get my heart rate up, but it didn’t do much for my ego... I will have to catch him some other time with a better shifter and a set of sticky tires.

cudaeh

iTrader: (2)

I suck at life,
turns out there is a mod to free up the restriction in the clutch line that I knew nothing about! And all the symptoms seem to be right in line with what Im facing.... except for lack of traction... but all things in time I guess.

t-rocks firehawk

drill mod.

brian06eleanor

a little spin and a 2nd chirp. you dont know traction issues lol. i blow them off 1st thru 3rd and chirp 4th lol. but try that clutch mod. a friend of mine did it to his ss and he said it helped a ton!

PowershifterNC

also try the driver mod..if you have a pro 50 it practically shifts itself. Just throw it that direction (3rd) and it goes.

LS1nut377

iTrader: (16)

spec3,new master cyl,drill mod----good to go

LS1nut377

iTrader: (16)

yeah if you can drive it good you should beat that stang no prob, i love my pro 5.0. i had a b&m ripper and that thing sucked!

cudaeh

iTrader: (2)

I thought at first it was the shifter but after I dug into it it sounds like my issues are more the clutch line restriction.
I can get it in the correct gate but when I get there 50% of the time it grinds like Im grinding gers or banging the sincros.
The other issue is at a stop when I go to put it in gear it wont enguage all the way, so i have to keep pressure on it and slowly let out the clutch to get it to click in.

I have had a 98 M6 formula with a stock shifter on it before and never had this issue with it (last owner must have done the drill mod) . Thats why I thought it was the 5.0 shifter that was f-ing things up.

miamifan3413

iTrader: (1)

I have a 98 M6 Formula and have never had the issue's that you speak of either....I wonder if the restriction exist's in the 98's??? I have upgraded since though. Once everything is comfortable to you, you'll be smackin mustangs down left and right

2000T/A Guru

iTrader: (4)

Locking you out of your tranny goin from 2 to 3 means your syncros are probably starting to go. How many miles on that tranny, if there isnt more than 80k i would say the previous owner slammed gears HARD

Irunelevens

Good run... ya'll should be fairly even in 1st and 2nd gear, but you should start pulling on him in 3rd fairly well if he's stock. Especially if he has 3.31s. Good luck with the tranny/clutch

PewterScreaminMach

iTrader: (7)

The first thing you want to do is test the disengagement of your clutch. It's free, easy, and quick. To do so, come to a dead stop on level ground with nothing in front of you (so that when in neutral with foot off the brake, you don't move). Next, push the clutch pedal to the floor and put the car in first gear. Leaving the clutch pedal all the way down, rev up the engine to around 5500-6000 RPM. If the car starts to creep forward at all, you have a clutch disengagement issue. If not, your clutch is disengaging fine.

Your best bet if it is disengaging fine is to first bleed the clutch well and do the drill mod. If this doesn't help, you most likely have damaged synchros/blocker rings in the tranny. Keep in mind that if your clutch is not disengaging properly (a failed test), then you may have already damaged the internals of the transmission, or will do so quickly if you keep driving it with the clutch not disengaging properly.

Hopefully the clutch is working fine and the drill mod and some bleeding fixes you up, though.

SilverStang00

iTrader: (2)

good info.

Go find the Stang again after you get your issues worked out

180ls1

iTrader: (4)

there is pretty much no parts that go bad in a pro 5.0 compared to all the other parts in your transmission assembly. I would bet a lot of money it is not the shifter.

cudaeh

iTrader: (2)

no to hard to do, co-worker of mine...
Yeah Im affraid it might be internal, we will see soon (just picked up a new master, and some dot 5.1) also going to do the free adjustible mod to it.
But I have a bad feeling that its internal... after 140k of hard driving I wouldnt expect every thing to work!!

cudaeh

iTrader: (2)

no to hard to do, co-worker of mine...
Yeah Im affraid it might be internal, we will see soon (just picked up a new master, and some dot 5.1) also going to do the free adjustible mod to it.
But I have a bad feeling that its internal... after 140k of hard driving I wouldnt expect every thing to work!!
Im going to change trans fluid while Im doing the clutch and see if that gets me any where.

OMGWTFBODY

iTrader: (5)

It might be time for a new clutch master/slave. You can do the drill mod then.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

I never liked my pro 5. I have ran pro 5,stock hurst ,hurst billet and factory hurst. Currently running factory hurst.
Soon to be running 4l80e. Getting real sick of standards these days.

2000ramairformula

iTrader: (1)

I cant find the drill mod

2000T/A Guru

iTrader: (4)

You should look into that stuff for trannys, i cant remember what its called it supposed to help with syncro problems, a buddy of mine put some in his 240sx and didnt hear any noise for 20kmiles