Stainless steel lines
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Stainless steel lines
What's the advantage other than looks? Obviously, I know the stock rubber ones become old, brittle and cracked or they can "bubble" out (i've never had that happen even on an '84 camaro i have), but is there really an advantage to getting stainless tell brake lines other than preventing these? Dissipate heat better?
#5
I noticed a firmer pedal feel. I still have the stock brakes at 12K miles and the brakes engage quicker with less pedal take up. I am happy with the improve feel and would recommend the mod.
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i just installed Russel lines on my ls1, all of them, even the ASR lines.
the pedal immediatly felt firmer, but again this could be due to bleeding. although i'm not sure i bled 100% new fluid through the whole system.
if you've got some years on your setup, for the small cost and minimal effort. i say they are a worthwhile upgrade.
got mine from Summit...used a $40 off coupon so i got a great deal.
the pedal immediatly felt firmer, but again this could be due to bleeding. although i'm not sure i bled 100% new fluid through the whole system.
if you've got some years on your setup, for the small cost and minimal effort. i say they are a worthwhile upgrade.
got mine from Summit...used a $40 off coupon so i got a great deal.
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i just installed Russel lines on my ls1, all of them, even the ASR lines.
the pedal immediatly felt firmer, but again this could be due to bleeding. although i'm not sure i bled 100% new fluid through the whole system.
if you've got some years on your setup, for the small cost and minimal effort. i say they are a worthwhile upgrade.
got mine from Summit...used a $40 off coupon so i got a great deal.
the pedal immediatly felt firmer, but again this could be due to bleeding. although i'm not sure i bled 100% new fluid through the whole system.
if you've got some years on your setup, for the small cost and minimal effort. i say they are a worthwhile upgrade.
got mine from Summit...used a $40 off coupon so i got a great deal.
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How much do stock rubber hoses really balloon anyway?
Can't really hurt going to ss lines, though I feel like the more I connect and disconnect the lines, the closer I get to damaging the fitting on the hard line side
Can't really hurt going to ss lines, though I feel like the more I connect and disconnect the lines, the closer I get to damaging the fitting on the hard line side
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the lines just replace the rubber sections.
ASR is basically traction control...something like Active Slip Response i think?
for my ASR equiped car there were 2 short rubber lines that got replaced just above the differential, then the rubber lines that go to the caliper. there are hard lines between these two rubber lines. then there were the basic rubber lines on each front wheel.
not sure if non-ASR equipped are different, but i've seen it listed differently in catalogs.
as for how much they balloon...who knows. but even a small amount can cause some spongy feeling i suppose.
for $100-150, its a small upgrade to do. and if you plan to bleed the lines to get all fresh fluid anyway...why not.
i had the old rubber lines on my 87 Iroc go bad on me...so i figure why not prevent it with my 10yr old car now?
its a messy job...but not hard at all. my russel lines were very easy to install.
new rotors and pads are in the very near future...so this was just the first step in a full brake upgrade.
ASR is basically traction control...something like Active Slip Response i think?
for my ASR equiped car there were 2 short rubber lines that got replaced just above the differential, then the rubber lines that go to the caliper. there are hard lines between these two rubber lines. then there were the basic rubber lines on each front wheel.
not sure if non-ASR equipped are different, but i've seen it listed differently in catalogs.
as for how much they balloon...who knows. but even a small amount can cause some spongy feeling i suppose.
for $100-150, its a small upgrade to do. and if you plan to bleed the lines to get all fresh fluid anyway...why not.
i had the old rubber lines on my 87 Iroc go bad on me...so i figure why not prevent it with my 10yr old car now?
its a messy job...but not hard at all. my russel lines were very easy to install.
new rotors and pads are in the very near future...so this was just the first step in a full brake upgrade.
#16
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No. I run -3AN brake lines and they are steel braided.
It's more for convenience than strength.
And don't confuse my statement. The factory lines have a strong, woven braid in them. They have to to hold the kinds of pressures braking systems see. But under extreme conditions, like with braks fluid being 400, 500 even 600 degrees, they will soften.
On a street car or even a drag car, if the brake fluid sees 200 degrees, it's being abused.
It's more for convenience than strength.
And don't confuse my statement. The factory lines have a strong, woven braid in them. They have to to hold the kinds of pressures braking systems see. But under extreme conditions, like with braks fluid being 400, 500 even 600 degrees, they will soften.
On a street car or even a drag car, if the brake fluid sees 200 degrees, it's being abused.
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Will stock lines "balloon". Yes. It's not usually a lot, but it does happen and more so as the lines age. They are indeed braided, and most don't know that. They are not just rubber lines, because rubber alone could not take anywhere near the pressures you see in a hydraulic system like brakes.
That said, the braid is made of fiberglass. Fiberglass does stretch and gets weaker over time.
Stainless steel lines are a relatively cheap upgrade. I wouldn't do them right away on a new car. A good time is when you do your brake fluid flushes (you have to bleed the system when you do lines, why not just do it at the same time and save some fluid?).
Does anyone dislike a firmer brake pedal? I can't think of anyone who does. And if indeed you get a firmer pedal, and you most likely will on any car with some miles on it, you get better stopping power too because you get more pressure on the calipers instead of losing some of that mechanical advantage through the system.
Pads and fluid and decent rotors are all more important than stainless lines provided the stock lines aren't shot. But SS lines do indeed have something to offer.
That said, the braid is made of fiberglass. Fiberglass does stretch and gets weaker over time.
Stainless steel lines are a relatively cheap upgrade. I wouldn't do them right away on a new car. A good time is when you do your brake fluid flushes (you have to bleed the system when you do lines, why not just do it at the same time and save some fluid?).
Does anyone dislike a firmer brake pedal? I can't think of anyone who does. And if indeed you get a firmer pedal, and you most likely will on any car with some miles on it, you get better stopping power too because you get more pressure on the calipers instead of losing some of that mechanical advantage through the system.
Pads and fluid and decent rotors are all more important than stainless lines provided the stock lines aren't shot. But SS lines do indeed have something to offer.
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after doing my C5 swap, i used a new set of LS1 ss lines. they were just an inch too short. after posting on FRRAX and getting a whole 1 response, i bought C5 lines. but these are about 12-16 inches long, where the LS1 lines were 8in or so long. now theres all this slack in the line that i had to zip tie around the swaybar.
is the extra length hurting anything in braking.....and what lines does everyone use when doing a C5 swap. they cant be using C5 lines if they are this ridiculously long.
is the extra length hurting anything in braking.....and what lines does everyone use when doing a C5 swap. they cant be using C5 lines if they are this ridiculously long.
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Sam -- I am replacing the rotors and pads all around, so I figure "I'm in there anyways..." I checked out your site and saw the stainless line kits you have... any info on them? I saw it includes 6 lines??
#20
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There isn't much to tell about stainless steel lines.
Basically they need to fit, it's nice when they are DOT Certified--which these are. That means they meet or exceed the DOT certification that is outlined in FMVSS 106 specifications. They have been tested in accordance with those specifications and submitted to the Department of Highway Transportation for recognition. These tests are done independently of the DOT.
The 5 vs. 6 line kits depend on if your car has ASR (Camaro) or TCS (Firebird), or not. If not, you run a 5 line kit. If you do have traction control you need the 6 line kit.
Basically they need to fit, it's nice when they are DOT Certified--which these are. That means they meet or exceed the DOT certification that is outlined in FMVSS 106 specifications. They have been tested in accordance with those specifications and submitted to the Department of Highway Transportation for recognition. These tests are done independently of the DOT.
The 5 vs. 6 line kits depend on if your car has ASR (Camaro) or TCS (Firebird), or not. If not, you run a 5 line kit. If you do have traction control you need the 6 line kit.
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