Suspension & Brakes Springs | Shocks | Handling | Rotors

boxed stock LCAs

Old 11-26-2008, 09:16 PM
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Default boxed stock LCAs

So I can do this for free, worth it? I know eveybody will say buy tubular, but I dont feel like spending that much more on my car this time of the year
Old 11-26-2008, 09:48 PM
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boxed is just as good. Are you saying you can get a free set or box your stock ones?
Old 11-26-2008, 10:54 PM
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guess I should have clarified that, I ment box my stockers
Old 11-26-2008, 11:02 PM
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still stronger that way and yes, cheap/free. Less flex than without.
Old 11-27-2008, 06:54 AM
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Boxed is way stronger than tubular.

If the stock unit is cutout in a u shape you can fill it with lead, and replace the bushings with polyurathane.

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Old 11-27-2008, 10:24 AM
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I wouldn't fill them with lead. But boxing them in is not going to make much change without better bushings.
Old 11-27-2008, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by All Black SS
I wouldn't fill them with lead. But boxing them in is not going to make much change without better bushings.
I don't have first hand experience, but I'm with this guy. The bushings are star shaped and I'm pretty sure these would present the weak point.
Old 11-27-2008, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by z28bryan
I don't have first hand experience, but I'm with this guy. The bushings are star shaped and I'm pretty sure these would present the weak point.
With respect to the "star shaped" bushings, I wouldn't exactly say "weak point" as in strength, but as in excess flexibility. The solid bushings, the Moog replacements, will tighten up the rear. Boxing the control arms is icing on the cake.
Old 11-27-2008, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
With respect to the "star shaped" bushings, I wouldn't exactly say "weak point" as in strength, but as in excess flexibility. The solid bushings, the Moog replacements, will tighten up the rear. Boxing the control arms is icing on the cake.
Yeah that's what I meant pretty much. Thanks for clarifying
Old 11-27-2008, 06:25 PM
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Swapping the bushings to the solid moog's will do more than boxing them in. Not sure boxing will really help. There is nothing wrong with stock LCA's with moog bushings... that's what I run. I may swap to the UMI johnny joint LCA's when they come out though.
Old 11-27-2008, 07:33 PM
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I have boxed ones (done by somebody else before I got
them) and pressed 1LE rubber bushings in, solid and no
complaints.
Old 11-27-2008, 09:24 PM
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I forgot about messing with the bushings, ill have to add that to the list. But I work at a metal shop, so its really no big deal at all to add some 7ga or 1/4 metal to them. Thanks for the replies guys
Old 12-06-2008, 02:22 PM
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Bushings $35 some one to weld the LCA's shut $15. Why not just buy a set of used LCA's Plenty people have extras. I myslef have a spare set of Spohn and hotchkis if your interested.
Old 12-06-2008, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by boilertwinkie
Bushings $35 some one to weld the LCA's shut $15. Why not just buy a set of used LCA's Plenty people have extras. I myslef have a spare set of Spohn and hotchkis if your interested.
While this is true, IMO stock LCA's with Moog bushings are one of the best options for a street car. The reason for this is unlike solid poly bushings the Moog ruber bushings don't bind. Instead they allow for articulation while decreasing deflection. The other up side is not having to replace them every couple of years like you would need to with Rod ends. Just my opinion on the matter.
Old 12-07-2008, 05:50 PM
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I am paranoid about welded suspension pieces. Most of the
aftermarket poly LCAs have a saddle weld pair, arm to each
bushing housing. The weld is critical. I have only seen one
aftermarket LCA, can't remember whose, that uses a box
stock rectangular tube with the poly housing captive in
a through-hole. The stockers are also captive in unmolested
sheet metal (seen a breakage photo recently from a non-
boxed one, after some damage, but undamaged ones ought
to be lifetime parts). My experience with T-welds and the
way saddle weld fittings on emissions headers tend to go,
keeps me disinterested in that type of construction LCA.

Though I'm sure the vendors will disagree, you can't convince
me about "never" when it comes to weld (and heat-affected
parent metal) breakage.

If I saw someone making tube-through-box LCAs that were
the right size for OE bushings I'd probably buy a set but
that's the only thing I'd consider, given what I've got.
Old 12-08-2008, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by jimmyblue

If I saw someone making tube-through-box LCAs that were
the right size for OE bushings I'd probably buy a set but
that's the only thing I'd consider, given what I've got.

What, like these, but with OEM bushings?
Old 12-08-2008, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by jimmyblue
I am paranoid about welded suspension pieces. Most of the
aftermarket poly LCAs have a saddle weld pair, arm to each
bushing housing. The weld is critical. I have only seen one
aftermarket LCA, can't remember whose, that uses a box
stock rectangular tube with the poly housing captive in
a through-hole. The stockers are also captive in unmolested
sheet metal (seen a breakage photo recently from a non-
boxed one, after some damage, but undamaged ones ought
to be lifetime parts). My experience with T-welds and the
way saddle weld fittings on emissions headers tend to go,
keeps me disinterested in that type of construction LCA.

Though I'm sure the vendors will disagree, you can't convince
me about "never" when it comes to weld (and heat-affected
parent metal) breakage.

If I saw someone making tube-through-box LCAs that were
the right size for OE bushings I'd probably buy a set but
that's the only thing I'd consider, given what I've got.
BMR does or use to make them this way. and so does DKT
Old 12-19-2008, 05:12 AM
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Can someone please explain the easiest way to replace the stock bushings with, say, Moogs? I thought they were pressed in and can't be easily taken out. Thanks guys. Also, in order to box the stockers, would you just weld a piece of metal over the top?
Old 12-19-2008, 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by LustrousWS6
Can someone please explain the easiest way to replace the stock bushings with, say, Moogs? I thought they were pressed in and can't be easily taken out. Thanks guys. Also, in order to box the stockers, would you just weld a piece of metal over the top?

The bushings basically "press out". The compression that holds them in place is provided by the "big" end of the bushing, the end that has the flare to it.

To "box" them, yes, you basically weld a piece of metal over the "open" end of the arm.
Old 12-19-2008, 08:49 AM
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Someone once recommended to me that I put a block of wood in the end of the control arm I was trying to get a bushing out of so I didn't smash the control arm closed.

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