boxed stock LCAs
#1
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boxed stock LCAs
So I can do this for free, worth it? I know eveybody will say buy tubular, but I dont feel like spending that much more on my car this time of the year
#5
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Boxed is way stronger than tubular.
If the stock unit is cutout in a u shape you can fill it with lead, and replace the bushings with polyurathane.
SteveC
If the stock unit is cutout in a u shape you can fill it with lead, and replace the bushings with polyurathane.
SteveC
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#10
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Swapping the bushings to the solid moog's will do more than boxing them in. Not sure boxing will really help. There is nothing wrong with stock LCA's with moog bushings... that's what I run. I may swap to the UMI johnny joint LCA's when they come out though.
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I forgot about messing with the bushings, ill have to add that to the list. But I work at a metal shop, so its really no big deal at all to add some 7ga or 1/4 metal to them. Thanks for the replies guys
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Bushings $35 some one to weld the LCA's shut $15. Why not just buy a set of used LCA's Plenty people have extras. I myslef have a spare set of Spohn and hotchkis if your interested.
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While this is true, IMO stock LCA's with Moog bushings are one of the best options for a street car. The reason for this is unlike solid poly bushings the Moog ruber bushings don't bind. Instead they allow for articulation while decreasing deflection. The other up side is not having to replace them every couple of years like you would need to with Rod ends. Just my opinion on the matter.
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I am paranoid about welded suspension pieces. Most of the
aftermarket poly LCAs have a saddle weld pair, arm to each
bushing housing. The weld is critical. I have only seen one
aftermarket LCA, can't remember whose, that uses a box
stock rectangular tube with the poly housing captive in
a through-hole. The stockers are also captive in unmolested
sheet metal (seen a breakage photo recently from a non-
boxed one, after some damage, but undamaged ones ought
to be lifetime parts). My experience with T-welds and the
way saddle weld fittings on emissions headers tend to go,
keeps me disinterested in that type of construction LCA.
Though I'm sure the vendors will disagree, you can't convince
me about "never" when it comes to weld (and heat-affected
parent metal) breakage.
If I saw someone making tube-through-box LCAs that were
the right size for OE bushings I'd probably buy a set but
that's the only thing I'd consider, given what I've got.
aftermarket poly LCAs have a saddle weld pair, arm to each
bushing housing. The weld is critical. I have only seen one
aftermarket LCA, can't remember whose, that uses a box
stock rectangular tube with the poly housing captive in
a through-hole. The stockers are also captive in unmolested
sheet metal (seen a breakage photo recently from a non-
boxed one, after some damage, but undamaged ones ought
to be lifetime parts). My experience with T-welds and the
way saddle weld fittings on emissions headers tend to go,
keeps me disinterested in that type of construction LCA.
Though I'm sure the vendors will disagree, you can't convince
me about "never" when it comes to weld (and heat-affected
parent metal) breakage.
If I saw someone making tube-through-box LCAs that were
the right size for OE bushings I'd probably buy a set but
that's the only thing I'd consider, given what I've got.
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I am paranoid about welded suspension pieces. Most of the
aftermarket poly LCAs have a saddle weld pair, arm to each
bushing housing. The weld is critical. I have only seen one
aftermarket LCA, can't remember whose, that uses a box
stock rectangular tube with the poly housing captive in
a through-hole. The stockers are also captive in unmolested
sheet metal (seen a breakage photo recently from a non-
boxed one, after some damage, but undamaged ones ought
to be lifetime parts). My experience with T-welds and the
way saddle weld fittings on emissions headers tend to go,
keeps me disinterested in that type of construction LCA.
Though I'm sure the vendors will disagree, you can't convince
me about "never" when it comes to weld (and heat-affected
parent metal) breakage.
If I saw someone making tube-through-box LCAs that were
the right size for OE bushings I'd probably buy a set but
that's the only thing I'd consider, given what I've got.
aftermarket poly LCAs have a saddle weld pair, arm to each
bushing housing. The weld is critical. I have only seen one
aftermarket LCA, can't remember whose, that uses a box
stock rectangular tube with the poly housing captive in
a through-hole. The stockers are also captive in unmolested
sheet metal (seen a breakage photo recently from a non-
boxed one, after some damage, but undamaged ones ought
to be lifetime parts). My experience with T-welds and the
way saddle weld fittings on emissions headers tend to go,
keeps me disinterested in that type of construction LCA.
Though I'm sure the vendors will disagree, you can't convince
me about "never" when it comes to weld (and heat-affected
parent metal) breakage.
If I saw someone making tube-through-box LCAs that were
the right size for OE bushings I'd probably buy a set but
that's the only thing I'd consider, given what I've got.
#18
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Can someone please explain the easiest way to replace the stock bushings with, say, Moogs? I thought they were pressed in and can't be easily taken out. Thanks guys. Also, in order to box the stockers, would you just weld a piece of metal over the top?
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Someone once recommended to me that I put a block of wood in the end of the control arm I was trying to get a bushing out of so I didn't smash the control arm closed.