Rear rotor swap kicked my A$$!!
#1
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Rear rotor swap kicked my A$$!!
So i undertook an easy task of changing all four rotors and all brake pads. Front rotors were a piece of cake. i get to the drivers side rear rotor and the damn rotor wouldnt budge!! tried taking it off w/ and w/o parking brake on with tranny on gear and not(not that it makes a difference) banged the **** out of the rotor, kicked it, cursed it, prayed for it but still nothing. Sun was going down and just like a dog with its tail down i put the rear tire on and gave up.
WTF!! is that thing so rusted that its gonna require some brute force? or are there some tiny little screws that i need to unscrew to take them off?
WTF!! is that thing so rusted that its gonna require some brute force? or are there some tiny little screws that i need to unscrew to take them off?
#5
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ya, its common on these cars. spray it with PB Blaster around the hub. then loosely screw one of your lug nuts on a couple of threads. then beat the living hell out of from the back side it with a mallet(or a hammer if your getting new rotors and not having them turned). when it comes loose the lugnut will stop it from shooting off. their are no little screws to worry about. if you you get the caliper off swing away!
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I had to get a wire brush and go at the surface rust for a while. Gave up on that and got a wire brush on a drill. They came off smooth after about five minutes from the time I switched to the drill
#10
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I've yet to experiance this issue with an F-body, but I had an Eagle Talon that did this all the time.
I don't really recommend the BFH solution cause I don't think it's a really good idea to shock load the axles like that. Instead I used a big gear puller. This works every time
I don't really recommend the BFH solution cause I don't think it's a really good idea to shock load the axles like that. Instead I used a big gear puller. This works every time
#14
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Yea what he said. I put a very light coating of bearing grease between the hub and rotor and never have any issues again. My Maxima in Michigan really kicked my a$$ trying to get it off first time.
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If you can get the car up SECURELY on stands, remove BOTH rear wheels, maybe even get the front up a little to keep the car level. (note that the lug holes in the rotors are a little oversized, and the wheels tend to keep everything locked in place) Put a couple of lugs on backwards, so the flat portion is close to the rotors (assuming you have OE, or opened ended lugs), but don't tighten them, they're just there to keep the rotors from wiggling.
Start the car. (the car is level so you have oil to he engine) Put the car in gear, blip the throttle and hit the brake. Repeat a couple of times. Usually the action of the brake grabbing the rotor will free it up, within the amount of the oversize of the lug holes. If it doesn't work, put the car in reverse, and repeat a couple of times. This should break them free.
I've never had rotors freeze on, but I've had a couple of steel wheels "weld" themselves to the axle by rusting, and I used this method to break them loose.
Start the car. (the car is level so you have oil to he engine) Put the car in gear, blip the throttle and hit the brake. Repeat a couple of times. Usually the action of the brake grabbing the rotor will free it up, within the amount of the oversize of the lug holes. If it doesn't work, put the car in reverse, and repeat a couple of times. This should break them free.
I've never had rotors freeze on, but I've had a couple of steel wheels "weld" themselves to the axle by rusting, and I used this method to break them loose.
#18
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I worked at a Goodyear shop (changing tires 25 years ago!) and I watched the guys heat up rear rotors till they were cherry red then bang the **** out of them to get them off - Yep, pretend it's a zombie!
Hey, you're replacing the old ones anyway, right?
Hey, you're replacing the old ones anyway, right?
#19
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Just to add, try hitting the rotor radially where the rotor meets the hub. This sometimes breaks the rust hold between the rotor and the hub. Be careful not to miss and hit the studs.
If all fails get a buddy with a torch and heat up between the studs while you beat the back of the rotor with the BFH.
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I had a hell of a time when I did my rears. Beat the hell outta the first rotor I tried to get off. Figured out why it was stuck on there when it finally came off. I had left the parking brake on. lol