quick question about lca's
 

i am buying some lcas and brackets since im having some wheelhop issues now that i lowered my car.

should i get the double poly adjustables, or the rod/poly adjustable. both from umi.

im guessing the double poly will be smoother on the road, what would you do?

I would get the rod/poly adj. if I was you.

Double poly = bind , unless you only driving in a straight line!:nod:
Take a look at the J&M LCAs

Poly/poly = quiet, but they bind.
Poly/rod = pretty quiet, don't bind, best overall for street use. I ordered mine yesterday, along with the relocation brackets, so that tells you what I would do. Just remember to lube them regularly and you will be just fine.

Poly/rod.

Whilst you're at it, you may want to have your Torque Arm checked as well.

Sorry the moog replacements haven't worked out. Keep them on hand just in case you may reuse them, or maybe sell them to someone that may use them.

o no man they worked. i just thought that since im lowered, and need some relocation brackets i should take the time and get some good lca's.

the only thing ill ever use my car for is track racing (turns) and driving around town. so i thought i needed them.

be cautious with lowering brackets. Even though you're lowered, the problem may lie with the torque arm pinion angle. Also other problems as well.

I've used relocation brackets before and they didn't do a thing to cure the wheel hop. If you do use them, take extra care that the body side mount of the LCA's don't exceed the height of the axle side mounts of the LCA's otherwise you can cause some really dangerous handling.

By the sounds of things, you may actually have a torque arm problem.

well i know that people have said that a lot of wheelhop comes from the angle of the lca and now that im lowered the angle is WAY off as you already know.

i already placed my order but since its xmas they havnt accepted it, i may just cancel the order and throw my car on our lift and check that out, you always know what your talking about.

its not a severe wheel hop but if i shock the drive train i can hear the banging back there. i never launch it hard but i just did it to test it to see what would happen. id much rather spend the money to prevent it then have to replace the rear end.

how do i check pinion angle?

Thanks for the complement...whilst I don't know everything, I do try to convey my experience with the suspension matters I've learnt the hard way on this car.

Usually though, pinion angle problems usually reveal themselves from driveline vibration at most highway speeds. You can check rear and forward pinion angle through a magnetic angle locator which can be purchased either with a new torque arm, or through an automotive tool dealer. The angle needs to be measured at it's approximate operating GVW on a drive-on lift, otherwise the measurement will obviously be way off.

Best thing to do in the meantime is to see if you can video tape what's happening.

and btw, if it's the angle of the LCA that IS the problem, then work with that before changing the LCA itself.

EDIT: also check the front torque arm mount bushing as those can go bad. checking the tranny mount doesn't hurt either since you're already underneath.

okay well i dont have any vibrations at all really. the only time my car vibrates *just a tad* is when im going like 140+ :secret2:

so i dont think its the pinion angle then. will the relocation brackets work with the stock arms or will it throw off the center of the axle?

unless your stock arms are deformed or the brackets are really thick, the stock arms should fit and not throw the thrust angle or wheel centering off.

Even though it's now highly unlikely that your pinion angle is off, your torque arm mount should be checked.

will do, i highly doubt its damaged but you right in saying that it should be checked just to make sure. i know the mount up front is okay and the rubber is fine (talked to sam about it) but ill check the rear too.

alright looks like ill be ordering just he brackets then just to make sure i dont waste my money on the lca's if they are not necessary.

well, depending on who you buy the parts from...just make sure that the stock arms are compatible with their brackets. If they say they're not, then that's the time to order LCA's that fir theirs.

Want you to at least have that covered. With concerns to money...I'm never one to really worry about saving when it comes to mods, because it almost never pays to be cheap. My concerns lie in the re-engineering of the whole car because whilst some parts may improve one aspect of the car, they may introduce other problems, hence why I say that not every part "compliments" each other.

i agree, as you can see the parts i got for my car were not cheap. id rather do it right the first time then end up spending more re-replacing parts down the road.

im going to go with UMI because i like their products, im going to read up on it and see if they will work with the stock arms.

thanks for you help again.

ps- let me know when your ultima gtr is done, i hope you put an LS in it:judge:

Good call with UMI. Sam Strano should be able to inform you with regards to LCA fitment since he works quite closely with them.

AFA the GTR is concerned...It did have an LSx 427 in it, however...the owner needed his block back, so we sold the transaxle and now the project is now pointing in the direction of an experimental electric vehicle with around the same target power and torque.

(Yep, putting my flame retardant suit on, but for me, speed and performance is speed and performance in the end).

thanks, i will.

no flame intended.

i hear those electric engine have like 500rwhp and like 2k rwtq lol. should be a blast to drive. just not going to go very far. lol.

ditto