tording99Z28

iTrader: (3)

Ok guys, I am installing the SJM ABS delete kit right now. I am trying to make the double flares and they are kicking my ***. The very first one I did looks pretty good and I think will work but now all the others keep coming out lopsided or the tube keep slipping in the flare holder. I left the braided steel line so I don't have much brake line to work with. Anybody have any tips to these damn double flares and what I am doing wrong? Part of the problem may be that the line is all bent from the factory so I don't know that its fitting in the holder right. Can I bend these lines back straight with a tubing bender or will they break? Any ideas? Please help!!

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

I never was able to double-flare using cheapo flare
tools, there are some good ones that I guess do a
better job of holding the work. Don't remember the
brands.

Maybe you want an assortment of short lengths
already flared, mock it up and go shopping? A penny
saved is a busted knuckle earned, etc.

01RedZ28

iTrader: (6)

I had real hard time flaring the stock lines as well, sounds exactly like the problems i was having. The lines supplied in the kit flare extremely easy compared to stock. I got so fustrated i pulled out the lines and took them to a shop to flare for me.

jetlag

iTrader: (32)

Are you using the flare tool that SJM sells?

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

Let me know if I can help.

Tiago

iTrader: (27)

cheap flaring tool doesn't work well, need high quality tool.

tording99Z28

iTrader: (3)

Yes I am using the SJM flaring tool. The first one came out pretty good so its possible to do but I am doing the rest the exact same as the first one I did and they are just not working the same.

tording99Z28

iTrader: (3)

What do you mean you pulled out the lines? Is there a point that you can unhook them and pull them out or did you pull the entire length of brake line out? I still have the motor in the car also.

black00ssFL

iTrader: (24)

Use a pair of pliers (vise grip) to tighten the holder. you won't get it tight enough by hand to keep the lines from moving within the holder.

Nasti98Z

iTrader: (24)

I cranked the tool down with pliers, then I sprayed WD40 on the first die, then sprayed it on the final flare tool also, sounds stupid but it helps, straighten the lines out as good as you can, I clamped the line in the tool, just before the bends, and slowly straighten them out, If you have a slight bend on the end, put it (end) in the tool crank it down it will also straighten it, having the ends straight is important, it determans if the flare it self remains straight, Also on the final flare dont crank it down super hard, I found out that if I did this it allowed for it to seat better on the brass fitting. Also a good quality flaring tool is important. I have a LISLE brand I bought 20 years ago and works perfect everytime. I just finished one of his kits up last night.

01RedZ28

iTrader: (6)

I pulled the entire brake line cost $10 to flare for me. It only takes a few minutes to remove if your having that much trouble flaring the lines thats what i would do.

tording99Z28

iTrader: (3)

Did you have the motor In the car? Seems to me it would be next to impossible to pull the brake lines with the motor In the car.

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

I did both my 94's with factory hard line and a Lisle SAE double flare tool (yes lines are metric). Had to redo one or two but worked with no leaks.

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

Our flaring kit is modified before it gets to the end user so that it works well with the stock lines. You can use a SAE tool...but there is a greater chance of line slipping if you're not careful.

tording99Z28, let me know the final results.

tording99Z28

iTrader: (3)

Thanks steve. I will give you a call if I still can't get it. I am going to try and put some vice grips on the wing nuts to really tighten the flaring clamp down on the line so it doesn't move. The first one I did looks pretty good and I think will seal but the next one I have tried twice and both times it has gone lopsided on me and keep pushing the line out of the holder. I did everything exactly the same as the first, the way we talked about on the phone. The only thing I am going to try is get a tube cutter to cut the line so its a nice even 90 degree cut. I am curious if I am getting the end of the tube square enough with my file and puting the line in the holding tool and filing it down flush with the tool.

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

I'd advise not using a tube cutter.

Especially older ones which can be dull. What you'll end up doing is shrinking the tube diameter due to the roller die's as you spin and tighten the tube cutter. Once the line slips in a flaring bar, its difficult to make it stop without either clamping it as you mentioned or literally cutting the 1/2" off and starting over. You could also try using a c-clamp half way down the flaring bar which helps reenforce the flaring bar from flexing.

What you did when it slipped is actually extruded the brake line making it smaller diameter.

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

Had good luck with a tube cutter too.

95_transam_lt1

iTrader: (6)

its a must when doing lines/ flaring. All you need to do is make sure you use a flat file to file off the part that got pushed in

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

Don't know what kinda tubing cutters you all are using but mine's flush everytime???

95_transam_lt1

iTrader: (6)

its flush but like when you use a pipe cutter on a exhaust pipe it has that edge on the inside, its the same way but it can mess up the flare