Full BMR Drag suspension questions
10-08-2003, 10:18 PM
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Full BMR Drag suspension questions OK well im having my whole car(98 Z28) redone and figured id take care of the suspension. Currently I have BMR LCA with Weld In relocation brackets. Below is what im planning to add.
BMR Weld-In Subframe Connectors
BMR Extreme Duty Torque Arm
BMR Adjustable Pan Hard Bar
BMR Extreme Anti-Roll Bar Kit
BMR Weld-In Relocation Brackets(Getting a 12bolt so gonna need new ones)
Is there anything else im forgetting? Is this too much stuff? Im looking at the car being capable of running 9s on the bottle eventually, but I still have to be able to drive it on the street occasionaly. Thank you for any insight in advance.
Phil
BMR Weld-In Subframe Connectors
BMR Extreme Duty Torque Arm
BMR Adjustable Pan Hard Bar
BMR Extreme Anti-Roll Bar Kit
BMR Weld-In Relocation Brackets(Getting a 12bolt so gonna need new ones)
Is there anything else im forgetting? Is this too much stuff? Im looking at the car being capable of running 9s on the bottle eventually, but I still have to be able to drive it on the street occasionaly. Thank you for any insight in advance.
Phil
10-10-2003, 01:18 PM
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Re: Full BMR Drag suspension questions Im planning making it a "street car" that is drag raced regularly, I use the term "street car" very loosely though. My ET expectations are Low 11s High 10s on the motor and low 10s high 9s on the bottle.
10-10-2003, 03:12 PM
#4
Re: Full BMR Drag suspension questions Reason I ask.. that Extreme Duty swaybar isn't really designed for the street. With an A4 car, you can probably get away without it.
I'm still running the stock Torque Arm without issues.
You have a converter yet?
I'm still running the stock Torque Arm without issues.
You have a converter yet?
10-10-2003, 08:25 PM
#6
Re: Full BMR Drag suspension questions I would do everything but the TA and swaybar for now. Then once the car is running look at getting the TA.
Why? Because the TA adds an extra adjustment point to get wrong
It's something you want to test at the track to get right.
If after everything, the car isn't coming out straight. Then go for the sway bar.
Why? Because the TA adds an extra adjustment point to get wrong
It's something you want to test at the track to get right.If after everything, the car isn't coming out straight. Then go for the sway bar.
10-11-2003, 01:27 PM
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Re: Full BMR Drag suspension questions Ok I was just afraid I was gonna break my stock TA and figured since the car is gonna be in the shop I might has well have them put everthing in at once.
I actually had a friend break his stock TA with a Vig3800 stall, slicks, cam, and headers, so after I saw that I always thought I should replace it when I get the chance. Thanks for all your help WILWAXU.
I actually had a friend break his stock TA with a Vig3800 stall, slicks, cam, and headers, so after I saw that I always thought I should replace it when I get the chance. Thanks for all your help WILWAXU.
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10-12-2003, 06:30 AM
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Re: Full BMR Drag suspension questions things you're forgetting.....BMR tubular k-member for the front, BMR tubular control arms for the front, lightweight rotors all around (i think alot of guys use powerslot) with these items you can drop over 100lbs from your front end. also if you dont plan on driving the car alot and dont plan on taking turns fast, remove the front swaybar...it lets the front end come up higher. you may do i driveshaft saftey loop if you dont already have one. if running slicks/stall/gears one of the things on the list of crap that could break is the driveshaft and that could get ugly quick.
