THE LAST Z

iTrader: (5)

I was thinking about getting a balanced set of sway bars & bilstein shocks for nice handling. Im staying stock ride height. If in the future I add 100lbs to the front of the car with an iron block 408, or I upgrade my stock rear to a heavier 9", Will that throw off the balanced swaybar effect, or make the car handle differently?

twitchtwice

iTrader: (12)

the rear deffinately because its more "un-sprung" weight. the front idk how much.

SS101

iTrader: (2)

like above, the engine is sprung wieght (controled by the springs of the front suspension) but the 9-inch is unsprung which makes it very difficult for the suspension to control. The 9-inch is going to hurt way more than the iron block. for what its worth, it shouldnt hurt handling (unless your road racing over lousey pavement) as much as ride quality.

Ironxcross

iTrader: (8)

something with an ironblock and 9" seems less conducive to handling than a aluminum block and little 10 bolt. for handling, wouldnt you want to make the car lighter... not heavier?

and if you are going to beef the car up like that, it seems like you're simply going for high hp (iron block for strength) and hard launches (9" for strength).

you'll have to pick a set up, or you'll just be lukewarm at both.

Brakemotive

iTrader: (73)

This is true, and you need to set your car up for what you want. If you want to go fast in a straight line the iron block \ 9" is great but as said earlier that rear axle will effect your cars handling. The extra weight in the rear will add to over steer if you are road racing or auto x. The less weight you have the better the car will handle no question about it, also the less weight you have the faster you can accelerate. If you are trying to have a car that will do both My thoughts would be to build your suspension, do some weight reduction (to what ever level you are willing to live with) and then run all of your basic bolt-ons and some nitrous. This way your car will not have any issues with rear unsrpung weight and have the juice to take it to the drag strip. I am aware that the 10bolt is not the strongest rear axle, but all drive trains have a weak point right? Just keep an eye on it, they can be rebuilt for dirt cheap anyways if you have to. But if you are set on the 9" get some lighter wheels in the rear to at least try and offset some of the unsprung weight back there. Note that will also improve braking! Funny how it all ties together

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Less weight is always better... But think about some things for a minute:

LT1 cars are iron blocked, they don't weight 100 pounds more than LS1 cars. In fact last time I weighed almost identically optioned cars back to back a '95 was 6 lbs. less than my '01.....

Rear axle. Unsprung weight. Bars and springs have no effect on, or effect from the axle weight. The mass is not good as the response is more harsh and the car is a little more clumsy feeling kind of like you in combat boots. The trick there is make sure you run shocks that can deal with the added unsprung weight (sufficient compression damping).

THE LAST Z

iTrader: (5)

OK thanks. So if I get a 9" rear & stick with an aluminum block I should be OK as far as handling & balanced sway bars go...

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Sure, but my point was the iron block really doesn't matter that much (consider the front of the car is over 2000 pounds already) and I don't believe that you'd actually add 100 pounds. And the rear axle is not effected by, or have an effect on what bar you run.

So yes, I'm saying a set of bars you think it balanced will still be well balanced regardless of what axle or block you run.

THE LAST Z

iTrader: (5)

Thanks sam. I was on your site & I was looking at your virson the bilstein shocks. What exactly was done to them & what shocks you recommend for stock springs & ride height?

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

My version of the Bilstein's is the fact I use a different rear shock than what everyone else does. About 2-3 years ago Bilstein changed their rear valving to something that is more similar the deCarbon valving. More compression and less rebound... just what I don't feel the car needs. I have no idea why they did this, but I won't use that shock. So I use an older, and I believe better valving that has more rebound and less compression damping than the current spec HD rear that everyone else sells.

Disturbed Bird

iTrader: (9)

the moser m9 according to bob @ EPP is the same weight as the stock 10 bolt. with the M9 you shouldnt have a problem with the weight

SScott

iTrader: (21)

Actually with the iron block you are adding MORE than 100 pounds. I'm sorry this is a FACT not a guess. I went with a tubular K member, upper and lower control arms, ditched the AC, and moved the battery to the trunk to help offset the weight difference.
The M9 is less weight than a 9 inch but because of the change in angle it also creates more parasitic power loss.
If you want something that is a super sharp handling car why did you buy an F-body?
Anyway with that said I am going to step up to the Koni's and Strano springs.
I cannot stand the Eibachs and KYB's I have now.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Hey man... I'm just telling you that two equally optioned cars, one a '95 LT1 and one an '01 LS1 both with full tanks, the same wheels, tires, shocks, swaybars, 10-bolts, and 6-speeds were basically identical on the scales. An LT1 is iron blocked, and what's more has a metal gas tank vs. my car's plastic one (albeit one gallon bigger in capacity).

Are all iron blocks going to weight what an LT1 block does? No, and a deeper skirt LS block would weigh somewhat more. But I'm not sure how you add 100 pounds over a iron LT1 block without working really hard.

SScott

iTrader: (21)

I was talking about over an LS1 as the original poster has an 02 Z28.
Do you have your springs in another color other than white? My car is black.