I will paypal you $25.00 if you can diagnose this problem.
 

That's all you need to do. Just tell me what to do that I have not already done to fix my brakes.

I have a 99 Camaro with the ABS delete, a new master cylinder, calipers in working order, fluid come out of every one of them when bleeding. We have bled it numerous times with the pedal still going to the floor and it'll stop. When bleeding the rear calipers the pedal never goes to the floor when the bleeder screw is opened, when bleeding the fronts, they do go down while holding the pedal as the bleeder screw was loosen. The whole booster even hits the cowl to the point you can see the wipers move. I even replaced the booster. There are no leaks at any of the fittings. This started back when I still had the ABS on the car as well. I have had 2 guys out here to also look at it, and they were stumped. This is my 3rd master cylinder to try.. just to make sure.

Like I said.. no leaks, been bled literally 20+ times, 3 master cylinders, fluid comes out of all 4 corners, bled it right rear first.. everything by the book.. and I have done brakes numerous times, and one of the guys who came out to help is certified in brake systems, and he was stumped.

So.. who want's $25.00

Is there an adjustment on the brake pedal to control pedal travel? Did you bench bleed the master cyl before installing them? The pedal not traveling to the floor when bleeding the rear sounds like a problem. Could be a blockage in a line. You need to check all of the slides for the calipers. If one of the slides are sticking it can cause a low pedal. let me know what you find there.

Yes we bench bled the master cylinder. I forgot to mention I have 2 sets of rear calipers, and I tired both sets, same results. Could a blockage cause the booster to rise and hit the cowl?

Bleed it in reverse order.

Hmmm.. May I ask the reasoning?

After reading some posts by mitchntx, he suggested it when chasing air bubbles (something he learned years ago).

How does the booster hit the cowling? Are these GM parts or they aftermarket?

Ok.. I will give that a try tomorrow. The thing is, I'll be using a mityvac, cause I'll have no one here to help me.

I'd like to know why. The bolts are tight on the booster to the firewall. Even when I replaced the booster it still did it. They are GM not aftermarket.

I use a pressure bleeder (the Motive one) since I always work solo. You'll just have to make sure you aren't sucking air bubbles caused by the vacuum.

I'm unaware of what that is. I assume it is better?

I don't know if it is better, but it works for me. Basically, it is a modified pesticide sprayer, so while you are bleeding, it is always replacing the fluid in the reservoir (provided you put new stuff in the tank). I've even got the adapter to use it for my clutch hydraulics.

Just Google "Motive Pressure Bleeder."

Thank you.. I'll go from there, and see what happens.

Probably a long shot but the rear calipers can be reversed on these cars. Did you make sure the calipers are mounted on the proper sides with the bleeders at the top?

Crack the line open at the rear calipers, then crack the line at the axle junction/wheelwell. See if you get similar results.
Maybe also crack the rear lines at the proportioning/bias block?
Probably make a mess, but you should eventually get a fully floored pedal, then you can start to isolate the faulty channel/area.

Few things. First, bypass the booster and directly connect the MC to the brakes. You'll have to grab some connectors to make it work. If you have an adjustable MC, you can simply unscrew the end of it and screw in an adapter for AN fittings. You won't be able to stop the car well (it'll require all the strength you've got to press the pedal), but you'll be able to see if the booster is causing you the problem.

Regardless, stop using the power bleeder. There are stories of power bleeders introducing air if not used properly. There are stories of them messing up valves and seals by drawing fluid past them under pressure. I have no idea if they are right. But, I do know that you are applying pressure in a way that the system was not designed for. Just run to Harbor Freight or Pep Boys and grab a $5 hose and magnetic bottle setup.

This is what I use http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=37201. You can grab a little longer hose for the inside, and then screw on a clear water bottle. Takes less than 5 minutes to bleed everything.

Lastly, replace everything. Yeah, it's expensive, but you can resell the parts once you figure out the culprit. Get a Wilwood dual 1" MC, some hard line, flaring tool, flexible lines and new calipers.

00 TA the factory bleeds the system by applying a crap load of pressure to the reservoir and pulls a vacuum on all four bleeder screws simultaneously. Therefore there's no issue with using the motive bleeder.

I fought this problem with my fullsize after i went hydroboost when i bagged it. Take all the calipers off and compress the pistons to push all the fluid back to the master and into the resevoir and its gonna get any trapped air out the lines. Bleeding them will not move enough of it to get pasted the T in the back and it will just move from side to side.

The key clue here is that he can't push the peddle to the floor when the rear bleeders are opened. Regardless of caliper orientation if the bleeders are opened the peddle should stroke to the floor because there should be no line pressure building up. There is some obstruction in the brake lines from the master cylinder to the rear calipers. Do you have a line lock? Did you check for any damaged or crimped metal lines. Maybe the rubber lines have swollen on the ID and caused a restriction. Or it maybe possible that the ABS delete block is defective (passages for the rear lines in the block were not machined or cast in).

^^^^^^^^^^^^makes sence!