leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

I recently picked up a part time job driving a delivery truck for a local auto parts store. You know, Obamonomics, etc......

Anyway, next door is a Goodyear store, and they recently took possession of a brand new Hunter 4 wheel alignment rack, and since I had just put a new set of tie rod ends on my Z-28, it needed to be checked out. So, I got together with one of the Goodyear techs and we reset the alignment.

What has me concerned, however was the "rear toe" numbers the machine's sensors generated. It's saying the LR "toe" is .23 degrees, and the RR "toe" is -.07 degrees. In other words, the rear axle is a bit skewed to the right.

In the opinion of all the experts, is this enough to be concerned about? I was looking through some of the threads here, at adjustable LCAs, but before I shell out any money, I'd like to find out if this variance from "dead straight" is enough to worry about on a street car.

If so, I can't seem to search out the thread about the LCAs that had the "Johnny Joint" style of spherical bearings. Does anybody know if they're available yet?

Thanks!

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

Nobody?

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

You could have the shop shim the axle but for the amount its off vs time and money to fix such a minor adjustment you will be ok with what you have. Its when you start getting into a full degree that a solution should be found.

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

It reads to me that the thrust angle is slightly off, which is somewhat normal with the some of the "factory tolerance lottery."

And I agree with Jay. If it's more than a full degree, then one could resort to adjustible LCA's, however for most apps, it's usually money spent with little to no results.

AFA those JJ LCA's, like the Howe/QA-1 rod-end ones, some can be made from off-the-shelve racing parts, however I will once again mention like others that Moog/1LE bushings on both ends of the rear trailing arms are very difficult to beat when it comes to "detectable performance" increase. The only exception I have realised would be ORR or RR, and then again, those are more for endurance/reliabiltiy from my experience.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, guys, for the response. While the thrust angle is within "acceptable" limits, having it closer to "zero" would be nicer.

I had some spare time on my hands about 18 months ago, just before I retired. My "farewell project" in my employer's machine shop was to "fab" a set of tubular LCAs, that would accept the Moog bushings.

Had I had access to this alignment machine before I did the fab work, I could have made the LR arm a whisker longer, to even out the thrust angle. Oh well...

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

Or maybe you could consult UMI and see if these would properly accept the Moog/1LE bushings: http://www.umiperformance.com/0013

If not then you could try double JJoints combined on a cross threaded tube of the metal of your choice. Regardless of which ends you choose, I still prefer a cross threaded double bung tube since it allows "on-car adjustibility."

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

Foxxtron, as I'm sure you're aware, the OE rubber bushings have different ODs at each end. The Energy Suspension replacement bushings are similarly shaped, because they're designed to be used in the OE trailing arms. The ones that you posted the picture of, don't appear to have that "step".

When I fabbed my tubular arms, I purchased a length of very thick walled tubing, which allowed me to cut that step into the tube, and still have sufficient wall thickness for strength. I could modify those arms, but it might be tricky finding an "off the shelf" threaded bung to weld into my existing tubes.

The only downside to trying this, is that I'd have a "single adjustable" arm, so I could make adjustments in "half turn" increments only. If it didn't work out "just right, I'd be in the same situation I'm in now, but with a little less money in my pocket!

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

Just because the tube openings aren't staggered doesn't necessitate that they won't work. One of the openings could be easily modified, but as you mention, you'll just be spending more money.

Really, if you're using the car strictly for the street, then the thrust angle is just going to be another nitpick. Even if you have a "highly enthusiastic" performance driving habit, correcting such a minutely eccentric thrust angle won't yield real world gains.