Sway bars... Hotchkis, Strano, Spohn, BMR, other?
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Sway bars... Hotchkis, Strano, Spohn, BMR, other?
I've spent several hours researching here and different other forums which sway bars I should get after the shock of my Konis has subsided a little .
Due to the recent surge in sales (BMR, Spohn) the sway bar prices have gotten more to where I'm more comfortable with them than before. I thought for sure I was going to get Sam's sway bars because the difference in price between his and others was not that great and because of all the wonderful things I've read about them, etc. But, the prices on Spohn and BMR sway bar sets are quite a bit lower right now and I started wondering whether for the increase in price for Stranos I will be able to fully utilize those bars.
Current prices that I am comparing for a set of front and back are
Hotchkis - way above what I would consider ($500+?)
Stranos - $439 plus shipping (maybe $25, just a wild guess) = $454
Spohn - $296 with free shipping
BMR - $266 with free shipping
So, the difference in price is roughly in the range of $200 between hi and lo. That's a pretty considerable chunk of change. Before I was set on going with Sam's sway bars but because money is always in consideration, I'm now considering Spohn.
I don't race, so this is purely for my own street, every day driving entertainment. Will I be able to feel the benefit that the premium costing sway bars will give me? What do you think?
Thanks!
Due to the recent surge in sales (BMR, Spohn) the sway bar prices have gotten more to where I'm more comfortable with them than before. I thought for sure I was going to get Sam's sway bars because the difference in price between his and others was not that great and because of all the wonderful things I've read about them, etc. But, the prices on Spohn and BMR sway bar sets are quite a bit lower right now and I started wondering whether for the increase in price for Stranos I will be able to fully utilize those bars.
Current prices that I am comparing for a set of front and back are
Hotchkis - way above what I would consider ($500+?)
Stranos - $439 plus shipping (maybe $25, just a wild guess) = $454
Spohn - $296 with free shipping
BMR - $266 with free shipping
So, the difference in price is roughly in the range of $200 between hi and lo. That's a pretty considerable chunk of change. Before I was set on going with Sam's sway bars but because money is always in consideration, I'm now considering Spohn.
I don't race, so this is purely for my own street, every day driving entertainment. Will I be able to feel the benefit that the premium costing sway bars will give me? What do you think?
Thanks!
#2
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I would try sticking to a hollow sway-bar, which have the advantage of adding a minimal amount of weight, and sometimes actually reducing weight, over factory bars!
The only possible down side to a hollow bar is cost, if that's a factor for you.
IMO, take a good hard look at the Strano bars!
The only possible down side to a hollow bar is cost, if that's a factor for you.
IMO, take a good hard look at the Strano bars!
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I say no bar at all up front...but if you must. I used to run the complete strano setup. If I ever want to handle again, Ill save up for another set. No question in my mind strano or bust.
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Yeah after another several hours spent online reading all i could find on the topic yesterday that's also the unfortunate conclusion I've come to. (Unfortunate in terms of having to spend so much money, that is.) If only I could test drive different setups and decide for myself...
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Before you decide what bar to buy you need to at least know what are your handling goals and what else do you plan on changing in the suspension. Then when you know your goals, you need to know the bar's Outer Diameter and Inner Diameter, or if it's solid.
Personally before I change any springs or bars on my car I sat down and formulated a plan for my car and identified the deficiencies I wanted to correct. I then reverse engineered the existing suspension to get a good understanding of the roll centers, camber curves, etc. Then I was able to plug in different bar and spring rates until the model delivered the results I desired. After that I went and bought springs and bars. The I drove it that way for a few years and re-asses my set-up and made more changes to reach my goal.
But that's me, I need to know if I am indeed making an improvement and not just think I did because of the placebo affect of thinking I made an improvement cause I spent alot of money.
Personally before I change any springs or bars on my car I sat down and formulated a plan for my car and identified the deficiencies I wanted to correct. I then reverse engineered the existing suspension to get a good understanding of the roll centers, camber curves, etc. Then I was able to plug in different bar and spring rates until the model delivered the results I desired. After that I went and bought springs and bars. The I drove it that way for a few years and re-asses my set-up and made more changes to reach my goal.
But that's me, I need to know if I am indeed making an improvement and not just think I did because of the placebo affect of thinking I made an improvement cause I spent alot of money.
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I just installed a Spohn swaybar in place of a Suspension Techniques and the difference is like night and day. Not that that the ST was made poorly, it wasn't but the Spohn is incredibley well built, although it is meant for drag racing, I would suggest it to anyone. Spohn has great products. Strano and BMR are also good. If your not worried about racing at all you could get a ST, heck, I'll sell you mine, it only has about 50 miles on it.
Last edited by driftpin; 04-30-2009 at 11:41 AM.
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Before you decide what bar to buy you need to at least know what are your handling goals and what else do you plan on changing in the suspension. Then when you know your goals, you need to know the bar's Outer Diameter and Inner Diameter, or if it's solid.
Personally before I change any springs or bars on my car I sat down and formulated a plan for my car and identified the deficiencies I wanted to correct. I then reverse engineered the existing suspension to get a good understanding of the roll centers, camber curves, etc. Then I was able to plug in different bar and spring rates until the model delivered the results I desired. After that I went and bought springs and bars. The I drove it that way for a few years and re-asses my set-up and made more changes to reach my goal.
But that's me, I need to know if I am indeed making an improvement and not just think I did because of the placebo affect of thinking I made an improvement cause I spent alot of money.
Personally before I change any springs or bars on my car I sat down and formulated a plan for my car and identified the deficiencies I wanted to correct. I then reverse engineered the existing suspension to get a good understanding of the roll centers, camber curves, etc. Then I was able to plug in different bar and spring rates until the model delivered the results I desired. After that I went and bought springs and bars. The I drove it that way for a few years and re-asses my set-up and made more changes to reach my goal.
But that's me, I need to know if I am indeed making an improvement and not just think I did because of the placebo affect of thinking I made an improvement cause I spent alot of money.
I will never take this car to a race track. Any kind. I drive it on average 10 miles daily between work and home and some errands. From what I have learned, shocks, sway bars, then springs, make the biggest bang for the buck difference. I bought the Koni shocks from Sam (which might have been overkill, I will never know), but every time I take a spirited drive I grin like an idiot because of the stability that I feel with these shocks on that I never felt before.
The only reason I started this thread as I said before, was due to the large price difference that before was not present in my decision making. I understand the car is a money pit but in reality, if I didn't have to spend so much money on the sway bars I could get Sam's springs sooner, that's all.
It seems that no one is 'unhappy' with any sway bar they get but I have yet to read someone's unbiased reviews of the car after they have tried many different brands and types for street driving (of course, Sam has done that but he has "somewhat" stricter demands)
/rambling
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Well at least determine the OD and the ID of the bar's you are considering. The stiffness of the bar is a cubic function of OD so 1mm makes a big difference.
The price differential you are seeing is not only a factor of build quality, but also specification. solid bars tend to be much more cost effective than hollow bars, but solid bars weight significantly more than solid bars.
Also, you want to properly match the bars to your springs. You mentioned you have Koni's, what springs do you have?
The price differential you are seeing is not only a factor of build quality, but also specification. solid bars tend to be much more cost effective than hollow bars, but solid bars weight significantly more than solid bars.
Also, you want to properly match the bars to your springs. You mentioned you have Koni's, what springs do you have?
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Well at least determine the OD and the ID of the bar's you are considering. The stiffness of the bar is a cubic function of OD so 1mm makes a big difference.
The price differential you are seeing is not only a factor of build quality, but also specification. solid bars tend to be much more cost effective than hollow bars, but solid bars weight significantly more than solid bars.
Also, you want to properly match the bars to your springs. You mentioned you have Koni's, what springs do you have?
The price differential you are seeing is not only a factor of build quality, but also specification. solid bars tend to be much more cost effective than hollow bars, but solid bars weight significantly more than solid bars.
Also, you want to properly match the bars to your springs. You mentioned you have Koni's, what springs do you have?
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People, stop recommending this left and right. It might help you a tiny bit at the drag strip, but it majorly compromises handling and makes the car a lot crappier to drive on REAL roads.
My drive to work in traffic is more fun than going to a track and going straight.
My drive to work in traffic is more fun than going to a track and going straight.
Last edited by dragonrage; 04-30-2009 at 02:50 PM.
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lol. I kind of glanced over that one. Let's see... I'm trying to decide between a 32mm solid or 35mm hollow front sway bar... yeah, let me just get rid of one completely because typically doing the opposite of what makes sense works well, right?
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Most people on here go for drag performance, removing the front sway bar helps alittle for that. I personally wouldn't do it, because I like my car to handle well, and I only don't go to the strip much.
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Yeah I couldn't care less about going in a straight line... Give me corners! I will go out of my way to find the route that has curves even if it's a little longer than the straight path. I luuuuv curves
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Suspension Techniques 35mm solid bar up front, cheapest and heaviest bar per millimeter but I love it. I also picked up a 21mm solid rear bar off a thirdgen for $15, cleaned it up and sprayed it with some black paint and it looks great. Balance is near perfect with the rest of my suspension components.
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Suspension Techniques 35mm solid bar up front, cheapest and heaviest bar per millimeter but I love it. I also picked up a 21mm solid rear bar off a thirdgen for $15, cleaned it up and sprayed it with some black paint and it looks great. Balance is near perfect with the rest of my suspension components.