DropTopBird

iTrader: (17)

Within the next few days Im going to be swapping out my pads and rotors for new ones I got from breakmotive. I was wondering if there is anything extra I should do with the brakes while I have them apart to make sure theyre in top working order. The calipers will be staying connected to the brake lines though because I dont want to have to go through bleeding the brakes. Thanks a lot.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

You don't remove the brake lines to bleed the brakes. You bleed with the bleeder screw.

When I do the brakes, I typically swap out the shims, clip, and caliper boots and clean/regrease the slider pins. If you leave these alone for too long, you could end up with siezed pins. I also prefer to flush the fluid once a year in my car. On a daily, I'd probably do it every 2 years at most.

In my opinion you're overlooking a huge part of your brakes working the way they should if you don't address these things. If the mechanical stuff between your right foot and the brake pads isn't up to par, then you mask how well your brakes actually work.

DropTopBird

iTrader: (17)

I think you misunderstood a bit. I know I dont have to remove the brake lines, but when you remove the calipers you must bleed the brakes afterwords. I do see your point though about those issues. I had a pad and rotor swap done at a dealer about 1-2yrs ago (done w/o consulting me first) would they have taken care of those during the repair?

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

I would never count on them to do the caliper pin greasing or brake hardware refresh. Might have to mention it. I don't really know for sure though. In my experiences, most dealers typically do the minimal amount of work needed to finish a job and then move onto the next thing. In my experiences money is all dealer mechanics care about. Brakes are a pretty easy job. If you can get them done yourself, you'll save yourself a ton of money and a good piece of mind knowing they were done right.

Not sure what you mean by removing the calipers. When I change the pads and rotors, I hang the caliper on a coat hanger wire from the spring so the caliper doesn't dangle on the line. I don't need to bleed the brakes after doing that... maybe you mean removing the calipers from the lines.

DropTopBird

iTrader: (17)

Yes I was talking about removing them from the line. I know that this is not necessary for the pad and rotor swap. To replace the dust boots/seals and do the maintenance you were suggesting though requires removal correct?

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

Nope. I typically remove the caliper from the PAB bracket. It's still attached to the brake line. The boots and caliper pins I'm speaking of are still sitting in the bracket. There's rubber protective boots to prevent dust and dirt from getting inside the part where the pins slide around. These are what I replace and also clean and regrease the pins. The shims are on the bracket and the clip is on the caliper. No need to disconnect the brake line. Although typically when I do this maintenance, it's about time to flush the fluid as well. I'm just saying you don't have to flush the fluid as a result of doing the caliper maintenance.

Others feel free to chime in. I'm one person only

DropTopBird

iTrader: (17)

Ahhh ok. I thought you were talking about the dust boot and seals on the piston. Do you have to buy all the pieces individually or can you buy a rebuild/maintenance kit that comes with all the parts?

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

You can get the boots, shims, clips in a brake hardware kit from autozone or napa. Costs like 10-20 bucks.