jcobra99

iTrader: (51)

Is there a Performance difference between chassis & Trans mounted TQ-arms?

Thanks

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Hello
When you get around to 450hp it is a good idea to get the arm off the rear of the transmission due to it will break the tail shaft. Their is not much performance difference between the two! What it comes down to is road noise from the mounting locations! And what we recommend is if the vehicle is a daily driver and a weekend cruiser you will be fine with a stock length due to the mounting bracket on the cross member is in the same spot (pretty much)! But if the vehicle is more or a race car and the noise (seeing how the cross member is under the set)is not going to be a problem and you want to tie a set of three point sub frame connectors to make the car solid then that would be fine as well! Below is a link to show you what all UMI Performance has to offer!

http://www.umiperformance.com/produc...ategory_id=130
http://www.umiperformance.com/produc...ategory_id=131

If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help!
Thanks
Brad

BMR Suspension

iTrader: (6)

Yes, there is a big performance difference when you switch to a chassis-mounted torque arm. The BMR Torque Arm Relocation Bracket has 7 mounting locations. This allows you to adjust the front mounting position of the torque arm. As you raise and lower that mounting position, the instant center of the rear suspension changes and that will have a big impact on how hard you hit the tires when you launch the car. You will see a difference in 60 foot times as you adjust the torque arm mounting position. As you make more power, the mounting position of the torque arm (and the instant center location of the rear suspension) becomes more critical.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

I don't know a lot about instant center yet, but I know it moves when you change the mounting point of the torque arm. The UE website has an interesting diagram/drawing they posted on their website showing the instant center with the long arm, short arm, and their decoupled arm.

The instant center can have an effect on how the car handles. Don't quote me on this, but the way I've read about it is that for handling applications you would want it around the center of the car. With a short arm and it's instant center toward the rear, it's good for launching, but if you are turning and braking then the handing is going to act a bit different compared to the long arm.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

Z28Bryan, you are absolutely correct. To the original poster we also offer two different versions of our shorter chassis mount torque arm. The Trak Pak and Extreme torque arms both connect to a crossmember that welds in between your frame connectors. The way a car launches with one of these torque arms versus a full length torque are is dramatically different. The shorter torque arm hits the tires very harder and allows your car to achieve the best 60' possible. If you have any questions please give me a call.

ynkssws6

iTrader: (1)

Correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't strano recommend full length torque arms?

jcobra99

iTrader: (51)

Which Brand of chassis mount adustable torque arms will clear my dumped TSP true duals?

dferg99

iTrader: (2)

I'm sorry to jack your thread but i'm a little confused. I just purchased the UMI non adjustable TA, but I'm thinking since I make over 450 hp this wont help my set up. Will the adjustable TA work better than non-adjustable and the extreme (Bmr version) give the best 60 ft times???

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

The longer torque arm is going to work better on a handling vehicle. The longer transmission mounted arms help to reduce brake hop and this is most likely why Sam recommends it. The shorter tunnel mounted arms transfer weight better on higher HP cars and on a handling car the short arms could induce brake hope.

The non-Adj torque arm will work just fine on a 450HP car. What Brad was recommending is eventually at that power rating you way want to look into a torque arm relocation kit to get the torque arm off the transmission tail shaft. This will prevent any damage to it in the future.

Hope that helps,
Ryan

dferg99

iTrader: (2)

I see what you are saying so in my situation I should purchase the relocation kit to remove the stress of the tailhousing and not buy another torque arm. Now I'm also wondering will buying this relocation kit help with weight transfer? I have a 70lb heavier iron block and all UMI suspension parts LCA, TA, subframes, Lca relocation brackets, with MT et drag radials. I CANT get this car to hook on the STREET? I still have stock shock and springs any suggestions to solve this problem?

hoseman1553

how about for a T/A thats lowered about 1 1/2" all around? i know the torque arm is necessary to fix the pinion angle, i like to play the better safe than sorry game so...is it necessary to get the tunnel brace bracket for the torque arm or is it ok to just go with the adj. arm? im sitting at around 350 rwhp right now. and will the tunnel brace interfere with 3 point sfc's?

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

I've heard there's a handful of guys using the stock torque arm who are in the 9's. Kinda makes me hesitate to run out for an aftermarket one.