Wheel hop after springs?
 

before i put strano springs in all i had was control arm relocation backets and i never had any wheel hop. Now after i put in strano springs, kyb agx front shocks, and an adjustable panhard bar I have wheel hop really bad. What could cause this to happen?

Are you on stock rear shocks?

yes i am still on stock rear shocks

Are you still on the stock tq arm? If so that is your main issue.

How is the geometry of the lower control arms? The must be slanting down front to rear. The two main things that control wheel hop are the lower control arms and the torque arm.

I would consider shocks before torque arm. Those rear stranos are gonna bounce all around on you with stock shocks.

What is the front AGX's set at during launches? (would lack of weight transfer cause the rear end to do more work?)

But yeah.. with the lowering springs you make the LCA angle worse for launching

A suggestion for you!
 

He's right! I just figured that I would throw this out there for you that UMI Performance offers a simple fix for this problem. A set of lower control arm relocation brackets offer adjustment for the lower control arm and eliminate wheel hop and increase you traction performance. We offer two versions a weld on and a bolt on. Below is a link to show you what we have to offer!

http://umiperformance.com/products.php?category_id=93

If you have any other questions leave me know and I will be more than glad to help!
Thanks
Brad :D

original post says he has the LCA relocation brackets.

And even if he didn't, the rear shocks would be the main issue here. Stock rear shocks are terrible, worse than stock fronts. Add stiffer rear springs that are also a bit shorter, add lousy damping and bingo.

And it's not a popular opinon, but LCA brackets are not necessary for a car just because it's lowered. I don't have them (can't in my class, don't need them in anyway). I have no wheelhop issues... and you'll find lots of folks that don't other than me. LCA brackets have a use, and sometimes are needed. I don't agree, respectfully, that it's any time a car is lowered.

I think shocks is the answer also....Before I added my bilsteins/hotchkis upgrade I had allot of wheel hop with stock suspension. Now i have none and no other mods aside from a PHB. BTW - I didn't add relocation brackets either.

Thanks for the info ill have to order some rear shocks when i get the money

check how the springs are seated, i had that problem when i changed springs on my civic si.

i agree with most....going to a stiffer spring rate than stock and using the stock shitty shocks is a big no no! they cant control the pressures of the spring bouncing. get some konis itll be your best investment ever when it comes to ride quality/handling

I have konis, one quarter turn from full soft and stock Z28 rear spring w/ a hose mod and my car hops the road like a damn bunny rabbit during my 1-2 shift and a dig pull. I NEED a bolt in LCA brackets.

i can almost 100% guarantee you are experiencing wheel hop because you are on the decarbons on the back. you will end up replacing every component in the back and have wheelhop until you put some shocks on there that can handle the drop and launch.

I can see this could be one of those threads that gets sticky.

Already there is a lack of information and understanding which can lead to issues.

First and foremost every car can be different. Hell, you could have a car that doesn't hop and you just put different tires on and it can start--which has nothing to do with suspension being "wrong".

I want to make the point that rebound damping is not what deals with wheelhop. Compression damping deals with unsprung weight. The axle is all unsprung weight. Change springs or even do the isolator mod, and aside from chaning your LCA angle, you shorten the amount of travel the shocks have to work in.

You also can't rule out that the LCA's themselves might be the issue. Which in bene's case might well be the issue. I don't see in his sig that he has better LCA's or even the better solid 1LE style rear bushings. Stock bushings have notches cut in them so the bushings flex more easily. They do this for ride, but the softer bushings can allow a car that has decent traction to start shaking the axle as the tires scrabble for bite and get it/lose it.

TA's can help wheelhop too. There is no one answer for every car. Here's how I play it:

Shocks first, you need them anyway to best deal with the springs, and they will help the ride. If that takes care of the hop--great.

If not, the next move is a good set of LCA's or at least 1LE style bushings in the stock arms. If that stops it, great.

If not, you can look at either LCA relocation brackets or a TA. I prefer the TA myself as the angle of the bracket can mess with stability and handling. Brackets are cheaper, I do sell them too. If that stops it, great.

If not it's on to the TA or LCA bracket, whichever you didn't use in the above step.

How does turning up the rebound not have an effect on eliminating wheelhop?

It's not impossible, but not normal. Rebound damping does not damp unsprung weight, the axle is unsprung weight. If you turn the rebound way, way up you keep the body down more, and that dynamic change can keep more weight down on the axle and help, but it's not a cure all.

I do have UMI rear suspension: adj LCAs, adj Panhard bar. I just need the bolt in LCA relo bracket. IMO, T/A isn't necessary unless the car is a dedicated 1/4 track car. Hell I was cutting 1.7s w/ stock T/A.