Brake lines suggestions?
07-12-2009, 02:07 AM
#1
Staging Lane
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Brake lines suggestions? I'm installing new brake lines and wanted size and fitting suggestions. Also whether or not to use proportioning valves. I was thinking of 1/4" stainless hard line front and rear to "T's" and then flexable -4's to the calipers. Or maybe I should go with smaller 3/16" lines up front? What is the best set up for brakes on a Big rear tire/ skinny front tire car?
07-12-2009, 03:01 PM
#3
You didn't indicate the vehicle year and type as well as what you're trying to accomplish so it's going to be hard for anyone to give you specific recommendations.
If you need separate components, feel free to give us a call. We can supply you with most of what you'd need regarding fittings, proportioning valve etc.
A proportioning/combo valve is a must unless you're keeping your system stock and just replacing lines.
If you need separate components, feel free to give us a call. We can supply you with most of what you'd need regarding fittings, proportioning valve etc.
A proportioning/combo valve is a must unless you're keeping your system stock and just replacing lines.
07-12-2009, 04:28 PM
#4
Staging Lane
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It's a completely new car (Twin turboed 69 camaro 2000hp street cough car). I need to buy everything new anyway so now is the time to ask questions. I never used a proportioning valve on my last car and never had issues with tires locking up. What is the reason you need one? I've got 33 x 18.5 out back and skinnies in the front.
07-12-2009, 08:06 PM
#5
The valve will allow you to bias the brakes so that you utilizing braking to the fullest. You want to prevent locking one set of wheels up over the other. Once one set locks and your coefficient of friction is lowered, your braking ability will diminish and it will take longer to stop. You braking will be more controlled and optimized with the brakes when they are tuned properly.
The chance of your car having correctly biased brakes would be....extremely small, you'd have a better chance at hitting the lottery.
At your HP level, estimated speed at the end of the track...a parachute would be highly advisable. Brakes alone will not make your car stop well unless you have an extremely long track.
Let me know if you need any components. Since nothing is probably stock, you'd have to let me know what brakes, master cylinder...etc that you have.
The chance of your car having correctly biased brakes would be....extremely small, you'd have a better chance at hitting the lottery.
At your HP level, estimated speed at the end of the track...a parachute would be highly advisable. Brakes alone will not make your car stop well unless you have an extremely long track.
Let me know if you need any components. Since nothing is probably stock, you'd have to let me know what brakes, master cylinder...etc that you have.
07-12-2009, 08:42 PM
#7
A non-sponsor I know of offers a complete kit sans the Proportioning valve and line lock for $150. You'd also have to get fittings to fit in the master cylinder.
Its really a nice setup PM if you want to know about it. Thats what I'm putting on my car.
~Jim~
Its really a nice setup PM if you want to know about it. Thats what I'm putting on my car.
~Jim~
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07-12-2009, 10:21 PM
#8
The adjustable proportioning valve and our line lock are 81.49 (41.50 and 39.99 respectively) from our website. http://www.sjmmanufacturing.com/cam_...1.html#Braking Options (for example).
Depending on your requirements, we may be able to help you with your needs. Call us and ask for me Steve.
We're able to provide professional assistance and dedicated to helping our customers with solutions. If you're looking for an e-bay or craigslist choice, we are definitely not the solution for you (or others). There will be no one setup that meets each person’s requirements. If there was a canned solution for every setup, I'd list it. We offer solutions and customer service backed up by professional educated experience.
I take offense to vendors who are not willing to commit to their customer base taking a back seat e-bay approach. I do not work at this as a side job or part-time.
As a last discussion point, if I can help anyone else reading this or the OP… be weary of “kits” adding braided hoses as a generic fit approach. Do NOT add braided lines to your braking system unless you're replacing a rubber line with a braided line.
Depending on your requirements, we may be able to help you with your needs. Call us and ask for me Steve.
We're able to provide professional assistance and dedicated to helping our customers with solutions. If you're looking for an e-bay or craigslist choice, we are definitely not the solution for you (or others). There will be no one setup that meets each person’s requirements. If there was a canned solution for every setup, I'd list it. We offer solutions and customer service backed up by professional educated experience.
I take offense to vendors who are not willing to commit to their customer base taking a back seat e-bay approach. I do not work at this as a side job or part-time.
As a last discussion point, if I can help anyone else reading this or the OP… be weary of “kits” adding braided hoses as a generic fit approach. Do NOT add braided lines to your braking system unless you're replacing a rubber line with a braided line.
07-12-2009, 10:52 PM
#9
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I'm installing new brake lines and wanted size and fitting suggestions. Also whether or not to use proportioning valves. I was thinking of 1/4" stainless hard line front and rear to "T's" and then flexable -4's to the calipers. Or maybe I should go with smaller 3/16" lines up front? What is the best set up for brakes on a Big rear tire/ skinny front tire car?
07-13-2009, 07:26 AM
#10
I would have to agree ...
All the parts necessary to re-plumb the braking system are available from various vendors. But it can be nerve racking and expensive to buy a few from Goodrich, couple from Edlemen and part or two from Earl's.
When our next car is ready for brakes, I will give SJM a call and try and put together a "kit".
We typically drop engines from the bottom of the car. That means you have to breach the brake system. And castrol SRF at $80/litre makes that mighty expensive. So we re-route the front lines across the lower core support, make bulkhead connection at the inner fender and get them out of the K-Member.
All the parts necessary to re-plumb the braking system are available from various vendors. But it can be nerve racking and expensive to buy a few from Goodrich, couple from Edlemen and part or two from Earl's.
When our next car is ready for brakes, I will give SJM a call and try and put together a "kit".
We typically drop engines from the bottom of the car. That means you have to breach the brake system. And castrol SRF at $80/litre makes that mighty expensive. So we re-route the front lines across the lower core support, make bulkhead connection at the inner fender and get them out of the K-Member.
07-13-2009, 08:56 AM
#11
Staging Lane
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Actually, my thoughts are the same when it comes to the propotioning valve. Running 33" tall x 18.50 wide rear sticky tires, there is little chance you will lock them up before you lock up the skinnies up front. My last car had narrower tires than this (31 x 14.5) and no valve. I never locked up those tires either and that car had a hydrobooster as well.
FWIW, I talked to a buddy of mine last night who has a similiar setup and he said he used to have a valve and took it off. He said it worked better without it.
07-13-2009, 10:04 AM
#14
Playing devil’s advocate...
Weight distribution, tire diameter, width, pads, rotor size, line pressure, flow-rate, wheel weight, tire selection... additional variables affect needs. This is why I state to you and others, the chances a braking system using a master cylinder ported directly to your wheels being optimized are slim to none. You don’t see vehicle braking systems that do not contain some type of valve controlling flow/pressure. This is because of factors and reasoning I’ve stated.
A valve isn't mandatory, without one, you’ll still stop the vehicle. Utilizing one, it does allow you to tune and control your braking to optimize the system. For the small dollar cost, it isn't a large investment.
07-14-2009, 12:33 AM
#16
Staging Lane
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Why would you suggest that it’s more appropriate to use a proportioning valve when all tires are the same diameter or width?
Playing devil’s advocate...
Weight distribution, tire diameter, width, pads, rotor size, line pressure, flow-rate, wheel weight, tire selection... additional variables affect needs. This is why I state to you and others, the chances a braking system using a master cylinder ported directly to your wheels being optimized are slim to none. You don’t see vehicle braking systems that do not contain some type of valve controlling flow/pressure. This is because of factors and reasoning I’ve stated.
A valve isn't mandatory, without one, you’ll still stop the vehicle. Utilizing one, it does allow you to tune and control your braking to optimize the system. For the small dollar cost, it isn't a large investment.
Playing devil’s advocate...
Weight distribution, tire diameter, width, pads, rotor size, line pressure, flow-rate, wheel weight, tire selection... additional variables affect needs. This is why I state to you and others, the chances a braking system using a master cylinder ported directly to your wheels being optimized are slim to none. You don’t see vehicle braking systems that do not contain some type of valve controlling flow/pressure. This is because of factors and reasoning I’ve stated.
A valve isn't mandatory, without one, you’ll still stop the vehicle. Utilizing one, it does allow you to tune and control your braking to optimize the system. For the small dollar cost, it isn't a large investment.
I was thinking of rolling resistance and the contact patch of the tires. It was a pleasure talking with you too!
