Need help with Koni install, come in please
#1
Need help with Koni install, come in please
I bought a set of front Konis from a guy that had them in his garage, but they are unused. I went ahead and tried to install them today and ran across some problems. First off, I broke one of the wheel studs on my passenger front. How do I remove it? I tried hitting it with a mallet but it didnt budge.
Second problem is the upper ball joints, I simply cannot separate the upper control arm from the spindle on either side of the car. I tried PB blaster, a rubber mallet, a big mallet, a crow bar, but they simply will not come loose. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks.
Second problem is the upper ball joints, I simply cannot separate the upper control arm from the spindle on either side of the car. I tried PB blaster, a rubber mallet, a big mallet, a crow bar, but they simply will not come loose. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks.
#3
While replacing my stock Decrapons with Slp/Eibach stuff, I didn't disconnect the ball joints. I loosened the top strut mounts, removed the wheels, brakes and disconnected the front sway bar. Then, using my foot to press down the lower control arm, I finagled the strut assembly single handedly. I installed the new stuff the same way. I don't know if this is a typical install possibility or not.
#4
While replacing my stock Decrapons with Slp/Eibach stuff, I didn't disconnect the ball joints. I loosened the top strut mounts, removed the wheels, brakes and disconnected the front sway bar. Then, using my foot to press down the lower control arm, I finagled the strut assembly single handedly. I installed the new stuff the same way. I don't know if this is a typical install possibility or not.
#6
Dangerous? I wanted to see if there was enough susp. droop to get the assembly out w/o removing the ball joint (and the headache associated with it) and guess what? It came out. Incidentally, the shorter, new stuff went in the same way- guess I'm living on the edge. Next time, the Strano stuff will be installed on a hoist with access to larger air tanks! Using my crappy 2HP air tank w/ loaned spring compressor- that was dangerous.
#7
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While replacing my stock Decrapons with Slp/Eibach stuff, I didn't disconnect the ball joints. I loosened the top strut mounts, removed the wheels, brakes and disconnected the front sway bar. Then, using my foot to press down the lower control arm, I finagled the strut assembly single handedly. I installed the new stuff the same way. I don't know if this is a typical install possibility or not.
I was able to do the same.
I have new Koni's that I'm trying to find time to install, and will probably do it that way again. There had been a write up with pix showing it done that way, but I can't find it now. I thought it was on installuniversity, but they have nothing on shock replacement now.
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#8
Thanks for the input guys, today I sprayed pb blaster and whacked it with a mallet, and after a few big hits the spindle popped off the control arm. My problem now is that I can't get the spring off the shock! There a bolt around the stock shaft holding the isolater (?) to the shock, and every time I try to turn it (yes with the spring compressed) the shaft just rotates with the nut. I tried putting a visegrip on the shaft with a wrench on the nut but the nut is recessed and I can't get a good grip. Any ideas?
#9
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^^^^^^ use an impact to break it loose just be sure not to take it all the way off or you will be infor a surprise when that compressed spring slapes you in he face.. either use a spring compressor to take the tension off or i actually just used the impact and put all my weight on it so that when it came off i just eased my arms up. depends on how strong you are i suppose though hopefully you stronger than a highschool cheer leader. also i did mine without taking the ball joints apart or he sway bar i ust put it up in the air and took the brakes and wheels off and then un bolted it and it came right out.
#13
The explosive force of a compressed spring releasing could be deadly! Even worse, if you're in close proximity to your vehicle, that bouncy coil could wreak havok in the garage! You'll need the spring compressor to install/assemble the new stuff so by not using it the time savings vs potential danger... a totally avoidable situation.
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The explosive force of a compressed spring releasing could be deadly! Even worse, if you're in close proximity to your vehicle, that bouncy coil could wreak havok in the garage! You'll need the spring compressor to install/assemble the new stuff so by not using it the time savings vs potential danger... a totally avoidable situation.
I like how you say the damage it could do to the garage is "even worse" then it being deadly.
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To get the nut off if it is giving you trouble...
Cut the dust boot off the shock (i'm assuming you don't want this crap on your car anymore!). Slide vice grips in there to the shock shaft and use a leverage extender to get the vice grip TIGHT. Just use a wratchet on the top to get the nut off or a breaker bar if needed. Make sure the spring is compressed. Don't be stupid when messing w/ this.
Cut the dust boot off the shock (i'm assuming you don't want this crap on your car anymore!). Slide vice grips in there to the shock shaft and use a leverage extender to get the vice grip TIGHT. Just use a wratchet on the top to get the nut off or a breaker bar if needed. Make sure the spring is compressed. Don't be stupid when messing w/ this.
#16
All I can say is wow what a bitch! The nut was so seized to the shaft that even with visegrips around the shaft (under the dust cover) the nut didn't even seperate. And that was with an impact! Finally got it after a lot of cursing and some beer. And having a shop spring compressor helps a lot too.
#17
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Do yourself a favor and get a stainless steel nut for the shock shaft and put some grease around it, also not a bad idea to put a little RTV where the shock mount mounts against the body to keep water out since it has nowhere to drain.
My shock assembly was so rusted that nothing was reuseable, had to buy new mounts and isolators.
My shock assembly was so rusted that nothing was reuseable, had to buy new mounts and isolators.
#19
So of course now I have another problem, the studs on top of the shock mount (which goes into the body) dont line up with the bottom of the shock, so it will bolt up to the body but will not fit in the a-arm. I tried to spin the shock around to make it fit but it wouldnt budge, I have a feeling I might have to compress the spring again?