HAZ-Matt

iTrader: (8)

There are a few questions I have so far. The car is a 2001 Formula, no TCS if that matters.

Anyway the first issue is the brake line clips on the axle. I imagine I will have to grind them off with the dremel, is that right? I was trying to pry them off with a chisel earlier but that doesn't seem like it is going to work out.

The other problem is that it seems that the sway bar spacers don't allow enough of the u-bolt thread to stick out for me to put the nuts on. I have Strano's sway bars, but I don't think that the bushing clamp is any bigger than the stocker. Did anyone else have to replace the axle clamps with "bigger" ones or ones with longer u-bolts to get the watts on the car? If so what size should I look for?

Thanks

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

Believe it or not I was able to use the factory U-bolts, but it was a real pain in the *** getting the second nut threaded on each U-bolt, and the threads are a little on the short side. The only reason I used the factory U-bolt is because I'm waiting on U-bolt from Hotchkis, since they sent me the wrong bolts with my adj.sway bar, so I'll be replacing the factory bolts as soon as my new bolts get here.
Just take one of the U-bolts to your favorite auto parts store and have them find you some at least a 1/4" longer up to 3/4" longer than your current U-bolts.

As far as removing the brake line tabs you need a nice sharp chisel, and try to position the chisel in a slightly different position each time, and I removed the remaining weld with a metal file. I would of tried using my dremel, but I didn't have any cut-off wheels. And yes, a dremel or die grinder will work, but be careful so you don't cut down into the axle tubes.

Take your time and remember, the end results will be well worth your labor!

HAZ-Matt

iTrader: (8)

Yeah I was sort of afraid to use the dremel on it because I didn't want to cut through the axle or a brake line. I might just have to use a little more elbow grease with the chisel. There must be variation in the U-bolts or the spacers because there is essentially no thread sticking past my sway bar clamps to start even one nut.

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

Also If you don't already have a digital level, get one!

I don't think you should have any problem using a dremel since they don't cut through metal very fast, just cut a bunch of straight lines right over where the tabs are welded to the axle tubes Like this:lllll, cut them horizontally or vertically, which ever is easier for you.

Then just chisel the pieces out.

transwiz

iTrader: (26)

I sawed the brake line clips with a hack saw blade and then used an angle grinder to grind them all the way down.You have to be careful with a grinder.A dremel would take forever.I didn't have a sharp chisle so I used what I had.
I also have Strano hollow sway bars and used only one spacer per side because the u clanps were too short. and had to modify the axle tube mount on the passenger side to get that stuff to fit.I also had to fabricate a spacer for the end of the axle housing where the watts bars bolt on.I called Jim Fay and he said that they all fit differently on every car.One install might be easy and the next might be a bitch.My install was kind of a pain,But everything worked out in the end.
____________________________
2000 t/a ws6 with lots of mods

beaSSt

I used a chisel to get my brake line clamps out of the way after bending up the ends. It worked really well and they came off really clean.

I had a real problem with the axle tubes hitting my SLP sway bar though. I had to fabricate new u bolts and used a 1.5" spacer in the end to get good clearance.

I also replaced the bolts in the axle tubes with longer bolts as I didn't like the fact that with the nylocs the thread didn't even protrude through the nuts. That was pretty easy.

Also, with the SLP dual dual cat back I had to reverse the propeller bolt as it wouldn't clear the muffler.

Overall, the sway bar interference was the biggest PITA and took the most time to sort out.

HAZ-Matt

iTrader: (8)

I have it on the car basically. I used the chisel and then a metal file. After wasting hours, I got my buddy's dremel and that fixed those damn brake clips PDQ.

I too have the SLP Dual Dual and I reversed the propeller bolt. I had to buy longer U bolts for my sway bars as the stockers did not reach through the sway spacer I was sent. I don't think my sway bars are going to interfere in this config. I had picked up a crappy little angle finder at the hardware store and used it to check that the arms were in fact parallel. I was wondering what a good way to check if the axle is truly centered. Were you guys just measuring from rim to fender on each side? And if it isn't centered do you just push on the body until it is correct?

Basically I think my axle is centered and also it looks like all the parts are aligned well. I will just be taking off one nut at a time tomorrow and throwing on the thread locker and torquing everything to spec before a test drive.

Thanks for the tips so far guys. If there are any more let me know.

HAZ-Matt

iTrader: (8)

Hmmm well I seem to be getting some noise... I think some if it is heat shield rattle on certain types of bumps and then there is something that could be described as somewhere between a clank and a clunk when hitting abrupt bumps. I don't think anything is binding (I left plenty of thread on the propeller side of the arms) but I guess I will need to get under it and make sure all the bolts are tight and that the arms are still aligned correctly. The over axle pipe comes very close to the frame of the watts but I don't think it really moves much there, but I guess I will check into that too.

HAZ-Matt

iTrader: (8)

I ended up re-aligning the arms and also jamming a small rubber piece in between the watts and the heat shield. I think it is better now. Car feels a good bit different, especially right hand turns.

beaSSt

I put some adhesive-backed foam between the heatsheild and the watts bar and then a tie wrap through the hole in the shield where the screw mounted the sheild to the body.

In the manual from Fays there is a small trouble shooting guide that describes what to do if you get "clinks" or "clunks" I believe.

If I remember the clunk is caused by too few threads where the rod ends mount to the propeller. The clink is from the propeller nuts not being tight. Could be wrong on the last one as I don't have my manual with me.

Lonnies Performance

iTrader: (16)

Make sure the pivot is close to vertical with the weight on the car. It will angle more as the suspension squats & the pivot may hit the rod end. You may have to spread the axle clamps further apart to get it right. Mine looked good initially & I noticed it would contact on hard bumps, even though it looked good at rest. I spread the axle clamps apart & now it does not make a sound.

As far as the tank shield, a few wire ties should fix it up.