223HAWK

iTrader: (11)

I took my car to the strip a few weeks ago. I wasnt happy with my times, the car spun a lot more than I thought it would. Its not wanting to transfer weight at all.

Im looking for a good set up that will help with weight transfer but not raise the car like a 4x4 and still corner. Iv wanted to lower the thing for a while, but now I think that will make it worse.

This isnt a race car at all..but wanting to help with traction

I have an adj. UMI T/A, Adj Panhard bar, LCA, with Relocations brackets, factory shocks, springs and removed sway bar.

I think this car has corned like **** from day one..but Id like to beable to take the sway bar on and off at the strip, still corner good but hook up some what better.

Heres what the pos does:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YRDtKSQ6b6c

LS1 Sounds

iTrader: (11)

My car already has UMI adjustable LCAs, LCA relo brackets, panhard bar, and SFCs. While this may not be the BEST setup, it's certainly affordable, adjustable, and is what I plan to add to my daily driver:

Strange Engineering single adjustable coilovers in the front with 300-325 pound springs. Set them as needed for the track, and firm them up for the street.
Cut stock rear springs with Comp. Eng. drag shocks.
UMI adjustable full length torque arm and torque arm relocation kit.
Remove the front sway bar.

My car already cut a 1.65 on 275/40R17 Nitto 555R IIs, with some gears and suspension I'm hoping for 1.5x's on this setup.

LS1 Sounds

iTrader: (11)

BTW, I grew up in Missouri and spent lots and lots of time at the Lake.

xXxSilveradoxXx

iTrader: (5)

What tires are you running?

223HAWK

iTrader: (11)

Your car is prob an automatic..I forgot to say that mines a 6 speed. Iv tryed running 315/35/17 Mickey Ts and then 275/40s Mickey Ts also..and with a 17in wheel..it cant be done too well. Im ganna have to get some 15 in wheels but Im just wanting the car to transfer weight and it doesnt do it at all..

tuffluck

iTrader: (4)

your tires are making you spin, not your suspension.

223HAWK

iTrader: (11)

I know tires are the main reason..but why doesnt it transfer weight?

LS1 Sounds

iTrader: (11)

Damn, I missed the M6 part and thought I remembered you having an A4 from a different thread. I just went back and watched your video again. The 17" drag radials may have too stiff of a sidewall to absorb the impact at launch, causing them to spin instead of sticking. It appears that they are spinning right away when you launch, and the suspension never gets a chance to react and transfer the weight. You may need to alter your launch technique and/or RPM and slip the clutch vs. dumping, or try a bias ply tire on a smaller diameter wheel, like an ET Street or ET Drag. The bias play tire has a softer sidewall that can absorb more of that launch impact than a drag radial, allowing it to hook and let the suspension work instead of spinning.

223HAWK

iTrader: (11)

Finally someone makes it sound simple for once. Thanks lol..thats all Iv been wanting to here. Its so hard to slip the clutch I have. Its a Monster. I love it other than its pretty hard to get it to slip. I think if it would hook insted of spining it might try to transfer weight and let the suspension work let you said. Im trying to get some money for a set of 15in street lites to match my 17s and see how they work..

All iv heard is angles this and that are wrong, check this and that and do this..Im to lazy and simple to spend all day geting my rearend set up perfect to run 11s WOW big acomplishment!!..now if I had an outlaw 10.5 car or some ****..ya id be conserned..lol

LS1 Sounds

iTrader: (11)

As far as the angles and your adjustable parts go, you can always check the following stuff real easy on some ramps:

LCAs in the lower mounting hole of your relocation brackets? This is especially important for lowered cars. As long as the back end of the LCA isn't higher than the front, you should be good there. Basically, you want the LCAs parallel to the ground or lower in the back.

Also related to the LCA brackets: when looking at your rear wheels from the side of the car, is the wheel centered in the wheel well front-to-back? Some LCA relocation brackets will change the position and move the wheel to the rear if installed incorrectly. The shop that welded my brackets in installed them in the wrong position and my car wouldn't hook for **** on the street on the way back home. I got home, adjusted the LCAs shorter to bring the axles forward some and it hooked much better. I just eyeballed this adjustment on my car until the wheels were centered front-to-back. Just make sure you adjust both LCAs by the same amount or it will throw off your rear alignment.

Is your adj. torque arm set for a few degrees of negative pinion angle? You would need a magnetic angle finder to check it, but these are pretty cheap if you don't already have one. I can give you some links for how to check and set this up if needed. You want the angle slightly negative so that when you stomp on it and the rear axle tries to rotate from the torque, the angle doesn't go positive during acceleration.

If all of this is already set up right, it's probably time for those tires.

223HAWK

iTrader: (11)

I have my pinion angle at -3. It was +1 lol.. Iv got the rear centered in the car but I didnt buy adjustable lcrs because everyone told me it was a waist of money. So my wheels set back a bit and looks funny to me..If I was to go with strano springs would that hurt me is far as drag racing?

LS1 Sounds

iTrader: (11)

You may want to think about some adjustable LCAs to bring the axle forward again to the stock position, it depends how far off your wheels are. You could probably sell your LCAs to offset the cost? Having them pushed back effectively lengthens the wheelbase of the car, which affects geometry and also has an impact on weight transfer. This also pulls the driveshaft slightly out of the trans tail so you don't get quite as much strength at this point since you have less spline contact. Mine was about 3/4" out from normal position before I corrected it.

The lowering springs will be stiffer than stock and also move the car's center of gravity closer to the ground. This could hurt 60' times by providing less potential for weight transfer, but as long as your geometry is set up right and you have good tires you should still be able to 60' well. I think I have read about some Koni/Strano spring cars in the 1.5x range. Since you want to use his springs, I would give Sam a call and discuss your goals with him. He can definitely help you out when it comes to suspension advice!

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

There is no weight transfer because there is no traction.

Stock shocks blow. You need Bilstein HDs and some better tires, betcha that fixes it and makes it nicer to drive to boot!