Possible to run rear CTS-V brakes on 02 camaro?
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Possible to run rear CTS-V brakes on 02 camaro?
I bought a full set of front and rear cts-v calipers. Anyone ever run the rears on an Fbody? Whats needed? Haven't found a write up in the search.
Also, what is the part # for the rotors I need for the fronts and(if possible) rears? (Z06 i assume)
These will be going on my new CCW LM20's on my MWC Fabbed 9":
https://ls1tech.com/forums/wheels-ti...ccw-lm20s.html
Thanks
Also, what is the part # for the rotors I need for the fronts and(if possible) rears? (Z06 i assume)
These will be going on my new CCW LM20's on my MWC Fabbed 9":
https://ls1tech.com/forums/wheels-ti...ccw-lm20s.html
Thanks
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There's some people that are looking at matching up the rears with or rotors that way we can keep the parking brake. But as far as some one to have done it already? No unless they don't post on forums. Alot of the reason y it hasn't been done is time constraints and down time. I'm sure it can be done with the proper bracket.
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I think it was tried in the sticky post, can't remember all of the detail but it didn't look good. I think Tobin at KORE3 was or is working on something with the cts-v rear. Hope that helps
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Getting it to work? That depends on what one means by that.
AFA fitting, with the appropriate design it can and I have made them fit.
AFA working well, beware... not only will you shift too much braking bias to the rear, you will also induce some nasty pad knockback as well (even if you're no longer running a c-clip axle).
I know because I've been through the whole deal. I ignored what Stoptech and Brembo warned me and discovered exactly what they were warning me about. NOT fun at all.
I have experienced this with the CTS-V, C6 Z06, and several other "solid" calipers.
AFA fitting, with the appropriate design it can and I have made them fit.
AFA working well, beware... not only will you shift too much braking bias to the rear, you will also induce some nasty pad knockback as well (even if you're no longer running a c-clip axle).
I know because I've been through the whole deal. I ignored what Stoptech and Brembo warned me and discovered exactly what they were warning me about. NOT fun at all.
I have experienced this with the CTS-V, C6 Z06, and several other "solid" calipers.
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Getting it to work? That depends on what one means by that.
AFA fitting, with the appropriate design it can and I have made them fit.
AFA working well, beware... not only will you shift too much braking bias to the rear, you will also induce some nasty pad knockback as well (even if you're no longer running a c-clip axle).
I know because I've been through the whole deal. I ignored what Stoptech and Brembo warned me and discovered exactly what they were warning me about. NOT fun at all.
I have experienced this with the CTS-V, C6 Z06, and several other "solid" calipers.
AFA fitting, with the appropriate design it can and I have made them fit.
AFA working well, beware... not only will you shift too much braking bias to the rear, you will also induce some nasty pad knockback as well (even if you're no longer running a c-clip axle).
I know because I've been through the whole deal. I ignored what Stoptech and Brembo warned me and discovered exactly what they were warning me about. NOT fun at all.
I have experienced this with the CTS-V, C6 Z06, and several other "solid" calipers.
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It's when there's enough forces in cornering to make the rotor and it's respectively connected components deflect enough to knock the pads and their respective pistons back inside their bores. This results in the pedal momentarily going to the floor as if there's "no brakes." This happens much more in cornering whilst almost never occuring in a straight line brake scenario.
May not sound like much, but you'll know it when you get it, and it's NOT fun at all. With that stated, there's really no brake setup that's free from knockback. Just depends on what the overall axle components are being used.
Remember, there's no such thing as a free lunch. The end game is to stop the vehicle in the most reliable and consistent manner and the parameters required aren't with those fancy modifications like lots of people like to think.
May not sound like much, but you'll know it when you get it, and it's NOT fun at all. With that stated, there's really no brake setup that's free from knockback. Just depends on what the overall axle components are being used.
Remember, there's no such thing as a free lunch. The end game is to stop the vehicle in the most reliable and consistent manner and the parameters required aren't with those fancy modifications like lots of people like to think.
#14
It's when there's enough forces in cornering to make the rotor and it's respectively connected components deflect enough to knock the pads and their respective pistons back inside their bores. This results in the pedal momentarily going to the floor as if there's "no brakes." This happens much more in cornering whilst almost never occuring in a straight line brake scenario.
May not sound like much, but you'll know it when you get it, and it's NOT fun at all. With that stated, there's really no brake setup that's free from knockback. Just depends on what the overall axle components are being used.
All that being said, pad knockback is condition typically caused by worn wheel end components. It was a prevelent issue with front brakes back when cars used to use adjustable inner/outer wheel bearings, but with the advent of hub assemblies, its all but unheard of. As for the rear brakes, as I said, a properly functioning rear axle should not cause any pad knockback noticeable by the driver.
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If someone could take some measurements and create the proper bracket, the rear calipers should basically be a bolt on.
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Not very accurate information. Pad knockback is an issue that results from worn components, such as worn bearings (non-c-clip axles), worn differential side gears (or limited slip diff), or worn c-clip grooves in the axle end. In an axle that is in good working condition, pad knockback will not be an issue whether you have fixed or floating calipers. If it was, cars such as F-bodies and Mustangs would have pad knockback issues even when new. Every rear has a spec for the amount of play allowed in the inward to outward movement of the axle, and the amount that is considered in spec is not enough to cause a pad knockback condition.
My car experiences pad knockback during hard cornering because my driver's side axle has excessive play due to worn clutch cones in my auburn differential. In the worst case, the pedal will drop a few inches below normal after a hard left turn, and then recover upon releasing and pushing the brake pedal one time. The pedal has never gone to the floor, and the freeplay in the axle is probably about 3 times the allowable spec.
All that being said, pad knockback is condition typically caused by worn wheel end components. It was a prevelent issue with front brakes back when cars used to use adjustable inner/outer wheel bearings, but with the advent of hub assemblies, its all but unheard of. As for the rear brakes, as I said, a properly functioning rear axle should not cause any pad knockback noticeable by the driver.
My car experiences pad knockback during hard cornering because my driver's side axle has excessive play due to worn clutch cones in my auburn differential. In the worst case, the pedal will drop a few inches below normal after a hard left turn, and then recover upon releasing and pushing the brake pedal one time. The pedal has never gone to the floor, and the freeplay in the axle is probably about 3 times the allowable spec.
All that being said, pad knockback is condition typically caused by worn wheel end components. It was a prevelent issue with front brakes back when cars used to use adjustable inner/outer wheel bearings, but with the advent of hub assemblies, its all but unheard of. As for the rear brakes, as I said, a properly functioning rear axle should not cause any pad knockback noticeable by the driver.
I'd say in my case and those others, it's very accurate, because the hydraulic system must be accounted for as well. Bearings and other driveline tolerances are only the beginning. Even on the most sophisticated SLA independent rear suspsension, pad knockback can occur as well, however the forces that can be applied to the bearings, hub, and the rotor itself is greatly eliminated through the use of CV joints as well as weight of the differential being sprung. With that stated, there's some loss of RWP and RWT, but that's a compromise that I would deal with.
Last I talked to the Stoptech and Brembo engineers, they confirmed that even though having solid calipers are beneficial, they take away some of the needed deflection that floating calipers can deal with those concerns, which is why there can be a benefit to having a solid caliper, but when the deflection is taken away in one area, it doesn't mean that it's completely eliminated.
Yes, one should replace the C-clips and preferably use a differential for cornering (e.g. Torsen T2, and the like), but that still may not solve the problem. In my case, the 10-bolt had the least amount with Bearing replacements as well as a Torsen rear diff, but the least amount of pad knockback resulted with sticking with stock floating calipers.
I'd say that I was pretty darn thorough and accurate in my findings.
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i didnt bother to read the entire thread....
i remember a couple months ago someone saying they accidentally bought the rears instead of the fronts and tried several different things to make them work on the rear, but with no success... my .02$
i remember a couple months ago someone saying they accidentally bought the rears instead of the fronts and tried several different things to make them work on the rear, but with no success... my .02$
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yep.
It's not as straight forward simple retrofit as some would have to believe. It can be done, but AFA using the exact same rotor and some of the other hardware? good luck.
It's not as straight forward simple retrofit as some would have to believe. It can be done, but AFA using the exact same rotor and some of the other hardware? good luck.
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Well, I've got some good resources in terms of CAD and machining equipment so I will have to look at everything once the car gets to that point. I understand all of the points made though. 1 question: Do we have a proportioning valve stock in the car or is that something I'm going to have to add?