It's now the next step...
 

I have strano springs, koni 4/4's and lower control arm relocation brackets in the mail... what should be next??? The car is a daily driver in san diego and im looking for some good handling.
thanks anyone!

Front and rear swaybars?

Panhard bar or watts link (one or the other) for sure to recenter your rear end

Otherwise, sways are definitally good (talk to strano for these also)

+1 an adjustable panhard bar is a must have on any lowered car for safety and wear. Watts links are trick, but a bit pricey compared to an adj PHB.

Sways would be pretty sweet. If you see any track time you might think about some adj LCA's and torque arm.

Get the Strano sways

I would get the PHB next. It's cheap and makes a huge difference. I couldn't believe how much it tightened up the rear of my car.

Hello
Like mentioned above both a adjustable pan hard bar and a set of sway bars will be a great mod. But I would suggest the adjustable pan hard bar to allow you to recenter the rear back under the vehicle due to it shifting when you lowered it and then upgrade to a 35mm and a 22mm rear bar. Below is a link to show you what all UMI Performance has to offer.

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...ecevur71msc3s4

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...ecevur71msc3s4

If you have any other questions feel free to ask!
Thanks
Brad :D

Definitely an adj. PHB to recenter the rear like everyone else has mentioned.

Strano sway bars would then be next I'd say.

+1

if you can swing it - step up to a watts link. If not, the PHB will make due.

I'd do swaybars myself. An adjustable PHB isn't a bad idea, or even better a Watts link. But those things do not change balance, cut roll, or add wheel rate like swaybars.

FWIW, earlier Brad mis-typed he didn't mean (I'm sure) to say a 1.25" front bar and a 22mm rear, that is a smaller bar than what we use. I sell my Hollow bar and UMI's solid bars. I'm sure he meant 1.375" front (which is the 35mm size we both use).

Difference between my bars and UMI are 3 things. My set weighs about 21 pounds less. They are bend differently (went to a new company to get this done) which makes fitment better than the older bars, and we use very different hardware. UMI's cost less for the bars, the shipping is more (heavier). Mine cost a bit more, but the shipping is a bit less--and folks spend way more money on chrome-moly in their LCA's, and SFC's, etc to save way less weight. Basically you spend $70 more for the pair, and save over 20 pounds. That's great bang for your buck.

how deep are your pockets?

Id go sways first than the adj. panhard.

thanks everyone for the input. I was thinking a watts linkage or the PHB/ relocation kit. but would rather do the better improving mods first like the sways or PHB. If I were to have true duals all the way out back, would the sways/ PHB interfere or is there still pretty good clearance?

I see you offer an adjustable rear sway bar. What would you recommend for a daily driver car? I want good handling!

if money is no object, i'd look no further than the watts link....i'm planning on getting one of these pretty soon for my DD....i already have an adjustable PHB, but it's not as good as i want it to be.

I would do Sams bars next then decide wether a watts is in your budget. It is worth saving for but if not in your plans I would go ahead with an adj. PHB as they are pretty reasonable and go ahead and get that rear centered.

I do have adjustable rear bars (two in fact, mine and Hotchkis). Handling wise, the standard bar is all you need. The adjustables are good to use in two cases.

1. You have a lower rear roll center which is the result of running a Watts link in a low setting or have lowered the Panhard bar. The adjustable bars allow you to stiffen the rear roll stiffness to get the balance back when the car tightens up from the RC drop.

1. You do a lot of drag racing and the car leaves hard enough that it wants to make a move to the right. Stiffening the rear bar helps counter that, but because the bar is adjustable you aren't stuck with too stiff a rear bar on the street and don't compromise handling like a drag bar would.