Stupid to not get subframe connectors?
#1
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Stupid to not get subframe connectors?
Aight since im about to dump several K in mods in (below list + bmr lca/phr/stb) and pay a good mechanic to install tune it all, given that i have a ttop 00 z28, would i be retarded to skip the subframe connectors?
What about fitmet with longtubes/ory? I hear some are problematic?
I'd go weld on, i know better than to use bolt on crap. Should i just let the mechanic pick a brand so i dont have to deal with "it dont fit/rubs/etc".
The live axle feels really loose (compared the the IDR on our 2002 330ci) and the body flex i guess thats just crappy unibody design or something (i come from german cars where things are pretty tight).
Whats the best type of subframe connector that will keep the wheels planted. I am going for better handling (within reason on a drag type car) and trying to eliminate wheel hop on the nitto's when i'm the track to give my rear end and tranny the best chance it has.
I expect to run 12.0's when all the mods/ls1edit tuned, thats about it, i dont care to get kicked off the track for no cage.
The car kinda sucks floppy in handling as it is. i know its heavy, and i know the 555R sidewalls leave something to desire, i am gonna keep 16" since theres alot more sidewall and the SHOW $$ is nill, if i need to add more parts to keep the GO in one piece.
I'd be pissed if i took it to the track and wheel hopped the rear end into pieces or blew the tranny on the first event, so gimme some advice.
i know the SLP subframes are nice and expensive, but have fitment issues, i'm on a budget after spending gads of money on these mods, so what do you suggest for the cheapest, but acceptable sub frame connector thats weld on?
I chose pacesetter LT's over Hooker's because of budget, and i felt that was an acceptable sacrifice, since i might drag every other weekend at maximum.
okay so i spilled the beans, hook me up with some solid advice..
Don't want fitment issues, dont want $300-400 SFC's, but don't want trash bolt on crap that won't be effective for long.
peace
What about fitmet with longtubes/ory? I hear some are problematic?
I'd go weld on, i know better than to use bolt on crap. Should i just let the mechanic pick a brand so i dont have to deal with "it dont fit/rubs/etc".
The live axle feels really loose (compared the the IDR on our 2002 330ci) and the body flex i guess thats just crappy unibody design or something (i come from german cars where things are pretty tight).
Whats the best type of subframe connector that will keep the wheels planted. I am going for better handling (within reason on a drag type car) and trying to eliminate wheel hop on the nitto's when i'm the track to give my rear end and tranny the best chance it has.
I expect to run 12.0's when all the mods/ls1edit tuned, thats about it, i dont care to get kicked off the track for no cage.
The car kinda sucks floppy in handling as it is. i know its heavy, and i know the 555R sidewalls leave something to desire, i am gonna keep 16" since theres alot more sidewall and the SHOW $$ is nill, if i need to add more parts to keep the GO in one piece.
I'd be pissed if i took it to the track and wheel hopped the rear end into pieces or blew the tranny on the first event, so gimme some advice.
i know the SLP subframes are nice and expensive, but have fitment issues, i'm on a budget after spending gads of money on these mods, so what do you suggest for the cheapest, but acceptable sub frame connector thats weld on?
I chose pacesetter LT's over Hooker's because of budget, and i felt that was an acceptable sacrifice, since i might drag every other weekend at maximum.
okay so i spilled the beans, hook me up with some solid advice..
Don't want fitment issues, dont want $300-400 SFC's, but don't want trash bolt on crap that won't be effective for long.
peace
#2
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It's no BMW (I'm thinking of going back to an Audi as a driver soon, but I like the 330CI, it is near the top of my list), but it can be made quite fast for reasonably cheap (the F-body). I would absolutely put connectors on it. If, due to space concerns, you fear the SLP style connectors (I like my SLP weld in connectors), you may want to consider the LG Motorsports setup. You can do the connectors and optionally add the cross braces and driveshaft loop. That way, if they cause problems with your headers, you can remove the center braces. And, LG is (or was) having a suspension/chassis parts sale right now (unless it ended yesterday, give them a call).
My thoughts.
My thoughts.
#3
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I ordered my G2 SFCs and V brace yesterday. After doing a lot of searches on here, I had the same concerns with header clearance, but my understanding is that G2 does not have that issue. Also, they are tubular weld ins so no bolts to deal with on the SFCs and no clearance issues either. As Trackbird said, if there is a problem with header clearance then you can just remove the V brace.
The sale ends tomorrow. Trust me for the quality you can't beat the price with the sale they are having.
The sale ends tomorrow. Trust me for the quality you can't beat the price with the sale they are having.
#7
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Originally Posted by samz28
got a link to the G2 sfc deal? I must be stupid hungover today. can't seem to find it.
Have fun!
This may help:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/117749-christmas-sale-lg-motorsports-g2-suspension.html
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#8
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GET THE SFCS!!!!!!!! They make the car feel brand new again, no bullshit. I decided to go with the BMr tubular weld-on SFC powder coated black and I love them. Most of my squeeks and rattles went away and my t-tops fit much snugger. Unfortunatley I waited until I had 17k miles to install them. The BMrs are tubular so they are not heavy and you can't see them unless you lay down next to the car. There is NO interferrence with anything!
#10
That's the truth! Hands down, the SFC's were the best mod for the suspension I have done. Period. Had I known how tight the car would feel, I would have done them years ago. I got the BMR boxed weld-on style. There will be a million different opinions as to which are better than which, but for the money you cannot beat them. There are no fitment issues with my LT's and you can't see them hanging down either.
#11
Originally Posted by Jabroni
That's the truth! Hands down, the SFC's were the best mod for the suspension I have done. Period. Had I known how tight the car would feel, I would have done them years ago. I got the BMR boxed weld-on style. There will be a million different opinions as to which are better than which, but for the money you cannot beat them. There are no fitment issues with my LT's and you can't see them hanging down either.
#12
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how do you order the welded ones? I noticed the 10% sale at thunder or tsp but they didnt specify weld on or bolt on boxed?
(same with tubular) do we have to call and ask? im not putting any bolt on crap on
(same with tubular) do we have to call and ask? im not putting any bolt on crap on
#13
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BMR only makes weld in and are available as either boxed or tubular. Most of the major vendors carry BMR products and there is always some type of GP on their products.
My understanding is you can use a jack on either. Obviously the boxed will give you a flatter surface to jack on. This is assuming you want to scratch up that beautiful powdercoating.
My understanding is you can use a jack on either. Obviously the boxed will give you a flatter surface to jack on. This is assuming you want to scratch up that beautiful powdercoating.
#14
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it was my understanding it is best to place the subframes on under the lift along with the car (Duh) and flex the chassis before welding them on? At least thats how i've always seen it done on the stangs.. any ideas?
#15
Originally Posted by samz28
it was my understanding it is best to place the subframes on under the lift along with the car (Duh) and flex the chassis before welding them on? At least thats how i've always seen it done on the stangs.. any ideas?