Watts Link. Streetable or not?
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What kind of ride comes out of this setup obviously it is a better system then GM came up with but is going to pound the hell out of my car or is a good adjustable panhard a better street option? Thanks
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From what I know about it it is just a centering device for the rear. It should not affect up and down movement at all. It's only purpose is to keep the rear centered with up and down and side to side loads. Torque arm and control arms keep the rear angled correct and under the car.
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its completely overkill for the street. its certainly not 'needed' or one of those common upgrades any fbody should have (SFC, new stick/shifter, rear end girdle, etc). if you dont race the car, as in real racing -autox, road, track days- and if you dont lower the car, dont bother with it. if you lower it, an adj. PHB is needed, as you will need to recenter the rear. dont forget a link is well over $700. i wouldnt even think about it unless youre competing at some level.
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Well over 700? I did'nt pay that for mine new but okay? I'm not your ordinary driver so I saw a benefit to having a Watts Linkage on my car. I drag race more than auto cross. I have used simular setups on my 2nd Gen Camaros in the past. I dont like getting beat up by the highway like most lease roads I have to drive My Heavy *** Coil Tubing unit down. I look foward to getting in my car for a drive around any where. Ride in a car with one and decide for your self. A few factory vehicles have A Watts linkage under them-new Dodge Suvs and some years Crown Vics.
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its completely overkill for the street. its certainly not 'needed' or one of those common upgrades any fbody should have (SFC, new stick/shifter, rear end girdle, etc). if you dont race the car, as in real racing -autox, road, track days- and if you dont lower the car, dont bother with it. if you lower it, an adj. PHB is needed, as you will need to recenter the rear. dont forget a link is well over $700. i wouldnt even think about it unless youre competing at some level.
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What's "Overkill" is strictly a personal opinion.
I could easily make that same statement with just about anything I, or anyone else who has done to their car.
IMO, the $650 Fays2 Watts Link makes a DD even more enjoyable to drive.
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It's definitely not "Overkill" for the street.
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The ride is not affected negatively with the Watts link, IMO. When cornering while encountering bumps, the rear moves up and down WITHOUT shifting left and right through an arc, as it does with a panhard rod set up. This is noticable and an improvement over stock as far as I am concerned. Also, it seems there is less stiction in the rear - it moves more freely during susp travel. Having the rear NOT shift over bumps is more confidence inspiring, you can feel more stability in the rear. BTW I had a rod ended adj PHR prior to the Watts install.
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its completely overkill for the street. its certainly not 'needed' or one of those common upgrades any fbody should have (SFC, new stick/shifter, rear end girdle, etc). if you dont race the car, as in real racing -autox, road, track days- and if you dont lower the car, dont bother with it. if you lower it, an adj. PHB is needed, as you will need to recenter the rear. dont forget a link is well over $700. i wouldnt even think about it unless youre competing at some level.
first of all, the only way it costs over $700 is if you include shipping, and probably not even then.
second, "worth it" is subjective. what's "worth it" to you may or may not be "worth it" to someone else. who qualified you to make their judgments for them?
third, you don't have to auto-x or road race to see the benefits of the watts link. the watts link is a centering device for the rear axle, nothing more, nothing less. yes, it's a more complicated device than a PHR, but it just simply works better. within any reasonable, real-world suspension travel on these cars, the rear end will stay exactly where you set it, 100% of the time, there is no shift at all from one side to the other as the suspension compresses/rebounds (assuming non-worn/non-damaged components)....the same can't be said for a PHR.
and lowering the car has absolutely 0% to do with it. in fact, you will see more benefit with a watts link over a PHR on a NON-lowered car than you would on a lowered one, depending on the shocks and the spring rate. all else being the same, on a lowered car the PHR is moved even closer to level with the ground than it would be on stock suspension. that means the arc that the PHR makes when compressing/rebounding is smaller than on a non-lowered vehicle.....and that means the rear end is shifting from one side to the other less than it would on the stock-height vehicle. this could give you that tiny extra little bit of breathing room to keep those wide-*** rear tires from rubbing, and possibly allowing you to fit a slightly wider rear tire than you could otherwise. better shocks and higher spring rates on a lowered vehicle will offset this some, though, so it really all depends on the car's setup......even further proving the point that your "all-or-nothing" statement is flawed, at best.
the watts link (and even an upgraded PHR, although to a lesser degree) can be thought of the way Sam Strano thinks about shocks.....they don't just benefit you under certain, infrequent cirmcumstances....they help you every time you drive the car, even if it's not readily apparent. you can ask all the people on here who have upgraded to the watts link on their daily drivers, they can attest that even in daily driving, it feels like an entirely different car.
on top of all that, in most applications, the Fays2 watts link has been reported to allow a little extra over-the-axle room for exhaust clearance.
and if your F-Quick page is up to date, you don't even have a watts link on your car, nor is there any indication that you have ever had one on it....so please quit offering unsound, subjective advice until you have.....
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you REALLY want to blow that much money for purely street driving, go right the **** ahead. you call me ignorant, yet youre one of the sheep being led by ham strano? would you believe the sky was green if he said so?
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So would you say doing a cam change is stupid? Or ANY mod to a car to include boltons? A Watts Link isnt anything new. I am not following Mr Strano on getting one. Hell MidWest can fab up a Watts Link for their Nine Inch rears as an option?
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blow me bitch. the OP asked for opinions, and i gave mine. i suppose you all know EVERYTHING and there is no other opinion but your own, hmm? sounds familiar. 650+ is a shitload of money to spend on a part for a street car that will more then likely never be used to its full potential.
and so what if it came stock on other cars.......drilled rotors come stock on other cars, do you buy into that bullshit also? M1 came stock with LS1 vettes, despite all the evidence that it was the worst oil to use....did you buy into that also?
and so what if it came stock on other cars.......drilled rotors come stock on other cars, do you buy into that bullshit also? M1 came stock with LS1 vettes, despite all the evidence that it was the worst oil to use....did you buy into that also?
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He asked if it was streetable. Suspension parts are used to their full potential About every day. Or maybe its just my driving. You do have valid points on cost of the setup and unless we really know his driving style. If he is a fabricator he can look at the basic design and make his own. Same debate goes into large duration cams on the street. I feel they not needed there. But thats a different forum.
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Im not attacking anyone but I want to throw my $.02 on whats "overkill".
Wouldn't a bone stock, 345hp 4th gen Fbody be overkill for the street? Why do you need 345hp right? What about a C5 Z06? Isnt 405hp, double wishbone suspension, track tuned suspension and brakes all overkill for the street? Are people dumb for buying these and not auto-xing them all the time?
Wouldn't a bone stock, 345hp 4th gen Fbody be overkill for the street? Why do you need 345hp right? What about a C5 Z06? Isnt 405hp, double wishbone suspension, track tuned suspension and brakes all overkill for the street? Are people dumb for buying these and not auto-xing them all the time?
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if you want to argue bone stock horsepower as overkill, then you might as well argue that my car coming with rear seats is overkill, because i have never had anyone in the rear seats. if it came stock with the car, then fine, i wouldnt see anyone de-modding their brand new car. but to put a part that -for fbodies- was specifically designed for racing on a pure street car, to me is overkill.
i DO race my car, and i certainly dont drive like a grandma on the street (if thats what an 'average driver' is). never have i taken a turn and thought 'man i need a $650 watts link.' even with the autox and track days i do, for the sheer COST of the part, thats way down on my list. if it was 350 or so, then maybe. but i can not justify that much money for what comparatively little use itll get.
and as far as using the suspension to its full potential every day, not even close. no matter HOW hard you drive, the first thing to give will be the tires. do an autox on streets, then use slicks, and youll see what im talking about. only when the tires have full traction does the suspension REALLY get used to its full potential. and im talking about driving 110%. with the tires giving first, the suspension -will still being used- is never at its 100% full potential, because it doesnt get a chance to when the tires are the first to give.
that is the reason why people can autox or track on street tires and have nothing break. then after a season of using slicks, hubs start going, brakes get uses more, tie rods/joints wear out, power steering goes, etc etc. ive done this first hand. with the tires giving first, everything else on the car is only being used at lets say 80-90% for sake of a number.
im sure someone will chime in saying a good driver can be faster then a bad one stock vs. stock, or stock vs. mods......thats NOT the issue and has nothing to do with the question of needing a watts link for street use, or suspension potential.
will it improve the car? sure, i never said it wouldnt. does it help handling? im sure it does. does it really NEED to go on a purely street car? how many f-bodies have gone 200K street miles without one? how many f-bodies have been raced and won in the years prior to a link? is it 'streetable', yes of course. is it worth it or not.....if youre one of those people who want to spend money like that, then ive said my peace. the rest is up to your wallet.
i DO race my car, and i certainly dont drive like a grandma on the street (if thats what an 'average driver' is). never have i taken a turn and thought 'man i need a $650 watts link.' even with the autox and track days i do, for the sheer COST of the part, thats way down on my list. if it was 350 or so, then maybe. but i can not justify that much money for what comparatively little use itll get.
and as far as using the suspension to its full potential every day, not even close. no matter HOW hard you drive, the first thing to give will be the tires. do an autox on streets, then use slicks, and youll see what im talking about. only when the tires have full traction does the suspension REALLY get used to its full potential. and im talking about driving 110%. with the tires giving first, the suspension -will still being used- is never at its 100% full potential, because it doesnt get a chance to when the tires are the first to give.
that is the reason why people can autox or track on street tires and have nothing break. then after a season of using slicks, hubs start going, brakes get uses more, tie rods/joints wear out, power steering goes, etc etc. ive done this first hand. with the tires giving first, everything else on the car is only being used at lets say 80-90% for sake of a number.
im sure someone will chime in saying a good driver can be faster then a bad one stock vs. stock, or stock vs. mods......thats NOT the issue and has nothing to do with the question of needing a watts link for street use, or suspension potential.
will it improve the car? sure, i never said it wouldnt. does it help handling? im sure it does. does it really NEED to go on a purely street car? how many f-bodies have gone 200K street miles without one? how many f-bodies have been raced and won in the years prior to a link? is it 'streetable', yes of course. is it worth it or not.....if youre one of those people who want to spend money like that, then ive said my peace. the rest is up to your wallet.