A few quick brake questions
04-02-2010, 10:18 AM
#1
A few quick brake questions First off I'm looking at the SJM ABS delete. What is the difference between the non Hurst style and the Hurst style? I'm not going to get a line lock, just the delete kit. Is the double flare tool good or should I seek one else where?
Next is my front brake rotors. They are Brembo blanks and have been on the car 3-4 years. They have quite a few of these tiny cracks that are on them.
Kind of hard to see in the pictures, but they are there. Is this cracking bad or just wear? How long do front rotors normally last? I just replaced my rear rotors and pads, my driver side was wearing a lot faster than my passenger side.
If my front rotors are now shot what are recommended these days? I go corner carving, I had Hawk HPS pads up front also, I'll probably run the same pads up front unless there is a new recommendation for aggressive braking in a daily driver.
Next is my front brake rotors. They are Brembo blanks and have been on the car 3-4 years. They have quite a few of these tiny cracks that are on them.
Kind of hard to see in the pictures, but they are there. Is this cracking bad or just wear? How long do front rotors normally last? I just replaced my rear rotors and pads, my driver side was wearing a lot faster than my passenger side.
If my front rotors are now shot what are recommended these days? I go corner carving, I had Hawk HPS pads up front also, I'll probably run the same pads up front unless there is a new recommendation for aggressive braking in a daily driver.
04-02-2010, 10:59 PM
#2
Bump. Would like to order stuff so its here by next weekend, well the rotors and pads at least. Are blanks still the way to go? Who has the best price? Are the tiny little cracks bad, as in do I even need new rotors up front? I'll try to get a better picture tomorrow maybe.
04-03-2010, 09:58 AM
#3
47 views, and no one can tell me the difference between the two ABS delete kits? Whats the deal with rotors, are slotted a NO-NO? I went from cross drilled and slotted Baer's that after warranted due to cracking I had sold and went with the Brembo Blanks, now what should I run? I haven't done any auto-x or track days yet, but I have twisty roads near by I like to tear up.
04-04-2010, 12:14 AM
#4
As per Stoptechs webpage
"For many years most racing rotors were drilled. There were two reasons - the holes gave the "fireband" boundary layer of gasses and particulate matter someplace to go and the edges of the holes gave the pad a better "bite".
Unfortunately the drilled holes also reduced the thermal capacity of the discs and served as very effective "stress raisers" significantly decreasing disc life. Improvements in friction materials have pretty much made the drilled rotor a thing of the past in racing. Most racing rotors currently feature a series of tangential slots or channels that serve the same purpose without the attendant disadvantages."
So if i understand this right it means slots are optimal not drilled/drilled and slotted.
Rotors with curved vanes offer more heat dissipation rather than the non curved ones of brembo
http://www.racingbrake.com/CAMARO_FR...1-211-1103.htm
I don't know who has the best price but sam strano has always given me great service when I buy a product from him. He sells those rotors and if you give him a call im sure he would be more than willing to help you out.
"For many years most racing rotors were drilled. There were two reasons - the holes gave the "fireband" boundary layer of gasses and particulate matter someplace to go and the edges of the holes gave the pad a better "bite".
Unfortunately the drilled holes also reduced the thermal capacity of the discs and served as very effective "stress raisers" significantly decreasing disc life. Improvements in friction materials have pretty much made the drilled rotor a thing of the past in racing. Most racing rotors currently feature a series of tangential slots or channels that serve the same purpose without the attendant disadvantages."
So if i understand this right it means slots are optimal not drilled/drilled and slotted.
Rotors with curved vanes offer more heat dissipation rather than the non curved ones of brembo
http://www.racingbrake.com/CAMARO_FR...1-211-1103.htm
I don't know who has the best price but sam strano has always given me great service when I buy a product from him. He sells those rotors and if you give him a call im sure he would be more than willing to help you out.
Last edited by 00cls1camaross; 04-04-2010 at 12:20 AM.
04-04-2010, 08:04 AM
#5
Don't quote me on this, but I bet it's a difference in the shifter handle between OEM and the Hurst option OEM manual shifters. I think it warrants a call.
I looked and is SJM no longer a supporting vendor here?
When we remove ABS from our road race cars, we use Burckhart Chassis ABS delete block instead.
http://www.burkhartchassis.com/id84.html
It mounts in the ABS bracket and is a cleaner install, IMHO, but doesn't come with a Prop valve.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/260-8419/10002/-1
We mount the prop valve under the hood, on the inner fender in front of the master cylinder.
To adjust the prop valve from the driver's seat, we use a remote adjuster
http://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/34...oductId=756330
If your rotors are 3 years old, it's time to replace them. The cracks you describe are heat cracks and are normal for rotors that have seen numerous heat cycles. There is no immediate issue with them, but it is a sign that they are getting tired.
I don't spend huge dollars on rotors. I use Wagners from O'reilly's at about $50 each. They are directionally veined blanks. I can get about a year out of a set.
Also get about a year out of a set of Carbotech pads. Best pad out there as far as I'm concerned.
Another opinion.
I looked and is SJM no longer a supporting vendor here?
When we remove ABS from our road race cars, we use Burckhart Chassis ABS delete block instead.
http://www.burkhartchassis.com/id84.html
It mounts in the ABS bracket and is a cleaner install, IMHO, but doesn't come with a Prop valve.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/260-8419/10002/-1
We mount the prop valve under the hood, on the inner fender in front of the master cylinder.
To adjust the prop valve from the driver's seat, we use a remote adjuster
http://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/34...oductId=756330
If your rotors are 3 years old, it's time to replace them. The cracks you describe are heat cracks and are normal for rotors that have seen numerous heat cycles. There is no immediate issue with them, but it is a sign that they are getting tired.
I don't spend huge dollars on rotors. I use Wagners from O'reilly's at about $50 each. They are directionally veined blanks. I can get about a year out of a set.
Also get about a year out of a set of Carbotech pads. Best pad out there as far as I'm concerned.
Another opinion.
