wheel spin fix
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wheel spin fix
Hey everyone. I have a 98 T/A 6 speed with some intake mods and a few other little things, also has zo6 clutch kit, sub frame connectors eibach pro kit and zr1 rims 17x11 and 17x9.5. My car has a lot of wheel spin, 1st gear is almost usless under wot ( im running brand new Goodyear eagle f1 gs-d3's
315/35/17 in back. Im getting BMR lca relocation brackets, BMR lca's, strut tower brace, and panhard rod.. What exactly does the pan hard do and with my larger tires do I need one.. Thanks.
315/35/17 in back. Im getting BMR lca relocation brackets, BMR lca's, strut tower brace, and panhard rod.. What exactly does the pan hard do and with my larger tires do I need one.. Thanks.
Last edited by DreamState23x; 01-15-2004 at 09:20 AM.
#2
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The panhard rod resists lateral movement of the rear end.
Aside from the obvious handling/stability benefits, an adjustable panhard rod is also useful for centering the rear end under the body. I don't think it would do much for wheelspin- but it would for handling.
A good torque arm would help assist with reducing wheelspin (by aiding weight transfer).
Aside from the obvious handling/stability benefits, an adjustable panhard rod is also useful for centering the rear end under the body. I don't think it would do much for wheelspin- but it would for handling.
A good torque arm would help assist with reducing wheelspin (by aiding weight transfer).
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I understand that but I keep hearing that you need one if you have larger tires which I do. Also Im kinda worried about getting a torqe arm considering the size wheels and tires that I have, If it pushes the back end down further it's going to rub.. Or will it not push the back end down like that.. I have fixed most of the rubbing but still have a little now if I step the side out hard enough.. Still have some work to do there.. Thanks for the info.
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You need a PHB if you have tire rub to move the diff to the center for precise placement of the tires inside the fender well.
As far as traction goes, you either have too much air pressure, the tires and pavement are too cold to handle the power or you need to control your right foot.
As far as traction goes, you either have too much air pressure, the tires and pavement are too cold to handle the power or you need to control your right foot.
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The only issue ground clearance wise with the torque arm is that the LT version dips down a bit to clear the larger Y-pipe for long tube headers... If you get the non-LT version. You are good to go...no lose in clearance.
(and if you switch to LT's- the conversion is only $100 or so)
(I'd definately suggest Spohn as well)
(and if you switch to LT's- the conversion is only $100 or so)
(I'd definately suggest Spohn as well)
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thanks
Originally Posted by z28hokie
The only issue ground clearance wise with the torque arm is that the LT version dips down a bit to clear the larger Y-pipe for long tube headers... If you get the non-LT version. You are good to go...no lose in clearance.
(and if you switch to LT's- the conversion is only $100 or so)
(I'd definately suggest Spohn as well)
(and if you switch to LT's- the conversion is only $100 or so)
(I'd definately suggest Spohn as well)