LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I'm not wanting to buy one if it won't benefit me. I know they are a must for high HP drag cars for the launch.

But is a torque arm w/crossmember mount going to help a 100% street car that mainly does roll races?

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UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Hello
Well the shorter arms will transfer weight a lot faster than a full length arm. And they also allow for instant center adjustment as well. As long as everything is tighten to specs they are pretty much bomb proof.....lol you never will have to worry about out growing it for sure.

But if the vehicle is more of a daily driver I would suggest going with a full length adjustable. You will still have your pinion angle adjustment. But still maintain a factory ride quality as well. And if you want to eliminate any breaking issues with the tail-shaft I would suggest going with a relocation cross member to allow you to mount the arm to the instant center adjustment plate. A lot of street and strip guys go with this particular set up. Below is a link to show you what all UMI Performance has to offer.

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...ex&cPath=7_115

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...ex&cPath=7_116
If you have any other questions feel free to ask.
Thanks
Brad

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the info. BUT....will one of these make my car feel or perform any better.....being that its a 100% street car. Roll races only. I mean I've had my factory T-Arm for 8 years with my 427ci and its in percfect condition.

What benefits will I gain on street radials on the street only? No drag racing from a dig.

Also, just curious. I see the pics of the DS loops. What happens if the DS shears 2-3 inches behind the loop? It looks liek the remaining piece of shaft will hit the ground....won't that potentially launch the car off the ground.

I thought DS loops were placed more rearward so if it breaks in the middle or anywhere behiond the midpoint...the forward remaining piece will just drag the ground, and the rear remaining piece will be supported by the loop....

Or maybe it just doesn't show well in the pictures.

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joblo1978

iTrader: (14)

You WILL feel the rear plant harder from a roll with a beefy torque arm. It's a noticeable difference. If you're losing traction during a hard downshift go ahead and get it if you already have the other supporting mods like stouter LCA's and relocation brackets. You won't be disappointed with the torque arm, but there are easier and cheaper ways to get traction and eliminate wheel hop from a roll.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Such as?

My new motor will have 150 RWHP more than my current engine....then with a 200-250 shot, I'll need some help with traction from a roll......so....

My rear tires will be 335's too...........

and I have LCA's, but not relocation brackets.

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joblo1978

iTrader: (14)

So you're gonna be in the 600HP range on spray huh?

You'll need it all to hook that up with a manual. You're probably getting wheel hop on hard acceleration over shitty roads and concrete highways. Brackets get rid of that and they're cheap.

You won't hook a street tire at all with that kind of spray, drag radials will be must and cheaper than a torque arm. 335 street tires or not. Wider isn't better for straightline acceleration necessarily. You will need a low treadwear tire ie. drag radial.

Subframes make for less deflection in the whole car and are cheaper than a torque arm also.

Torque arms are big pieces and kind of expensive, especially chromoly, they add a little weight too. I did it after all the above and it still made a big difference.

You can literally twist the stock torm arm with your bare hands. Get rid of that piece of ****.

I know a guy who welded two stock torque arms together if you wanna beef it up for cheap. Just keep in mind that after all those mods, your car will not be nice and quiet any more. It'll sound like a tank inside, but you will hook it up. I do.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

My sig.....I have subs, LCA's, pan hard, STB already. All there is left to get is a TQ-arm. And the relocation brackets you mentioned. So I can get the relocation brackets and a torque arm. $400+, thats not bad. Then I'll have it all.

Is there any other things to buy for the suspension?

I'm hoping/expecting 630-650 RWHP on motor through an A4.....Close to 900 on the spray. My friend has an iron 422ci with a 300 shot making 535 RWHP on motor, 880 RWHP on spray...he hooks pretty darn good from a 50 roll, he also has a stock Tq-arm still. But he also never does drag racing, just roll races.

I know 630+ RWHP is alot, by I'm hoping for it. 441ci, 12:1 cr, big cam, probably gonna use LS7 style heads from All-Pro.

With that said......my friend has a TT Heffner Viper with over 1,200 RWHP and he hooks with street radials for killer roll races. Rolls into the throttle of course, but its WOT in about 3 seconds. I will be using some kind of 335 radial tire like he has.

I'm slowly getting the car ready for the new motor. Comes out of paint this Thursday.

.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Hello
What a DS Loop is for is to keep the DS away from the driver if it happens to break. The Rule book says it has to be within 6 inches from the yoke on the transmission. I have even heard some guys get the muti purpose DS Loops that Lakewood make and mount them farther back for added security. For the amount of HP you are going to be putting down I would highly suggest going with a tunnel mounted version for max performance.

And like mentioned above going with a set of relocation brackets will allow you to adjust the LCA parallel actually pushing the rear end into the ground. Increasing your traction performance and eliminating any wheel hop issues.

If you have any other questions feel free to ask.
Thanks
Brad

And like mentioned above the

FloydSummerOf68

iTrader: (1)

I absolutely love UMI parts, but I have to say that if it is a street car and if it's lowered at all you DO NOT want the tunnel mounted torque arm. I absolutely cannot drive my Formula over any sort of incline change without sounding like I'm taking out the bottom of my car.

I would suggest doing a long torque arm with a relocation bracket that UMI sells for a street car...this is what I plan on swapping to ASAP.

With that kind of power you definitely do not want to keep the arm on the tail of the tranny...even the flimsy stock junk.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Which relocation brackets should I get? I have LG Motorsports LCA's now. Maybe just get their reloacation brackets....or do anyones brackets work?

Also, can you give me lionks to the TQ arm you're talking about? I don't need to be bottoming out any more than I am now.

Thanks.

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Arc00TA

iTrader: (17)

My old car was only putting down 425rwhp, and adding a BMR torque arm I got for cheap and an UMI relocation crossmember improved my roll traction a lot, especially at lower speeds. I could definitely tell a noticable difference even with LCA's, Panhard, 3 point SFC's, etc. I had no choice but to upgrade, I hit a hard 1-2 shift and broke the torque arm off of the transmission. I don't think you will regret upgrading it, and for the power you're making I would definitely consider a relocation crossmember to get the stress off of your transmission.

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

Hello,

These are the two items he was referring to, a torque arm relocation kit and a long torque arm which are designed to work together. Please take a look and let me know if you have any questions.

www.umiperformance.com/2205
www.umiperformance.com/2208

Thank you!
Ryan

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Hello
As long as their control arms are made to factory specs I am sure you are able to use anyone's relocation brackets. We offer 2 different versions a bolt on and a weld on application. Below is a link to show you what type of torque arm and relocation brackets we are talking about.

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...hfqho2pbm6mo12

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...hfqho2pbm6mo12

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...hfqho2pbm6mo12

If you have any other questions feel free to ask.
Thanks
Brad

Hello
That is why we always suggest when you get around 425-450 HP start thinking about getting the arm off of the rear of the transmission with a relocation cross member. Its like added security and will save you a lot of money in the long run.
Thanks Again
Brad

FloydSummerOf68

iTrader: (1)

Bingo

I definitely feel this is the ticket for a street driven car wanting to get the best traction.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I'll call you today or tomorrow to order the relocation brackets for the LCA's for sure.

As far as the TQ-arm relocation brackets go......wouldn't this TQ-arm w/relocation bracket combo be a better deal rather than just buying a relocation bracket for $240.00 and reusing my stock TQ-arm with it. If thats what you were talking about. If I get the combo kit ($370) then I'd be getting a new TQ-arm with it for $130.00 more. If I'm seeing this right.
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...=103&ModelID=8

Thanks.

.

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

You are correct, with the tunnel mounted torque arms you are getting a better "bang for your buck" but it will depend on your vehicle use, exhaust set up and what you want from the car.

Many people are recommending the torque arm relocation kit with new torque arm because it will be quieter and won't reduce ground clearance like some of the tunnel mounted styles do.

As for build quality, both items are built from the same material and same process.

Hope that helps!
Ryan