LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Factory stock 1998 WS6 T/A sway bar. Front sway bar.

I need to order new bushings.

I guess I could measure them, but I'm out of town right now and really need to order them now.

Thanks.

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LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Also, what about the bushings that are on each end of the sway bar.....where should I buy these, what brand? AC Delco's from www.rockauto.com???

Moog's are $5.50 each...how can they be that damn cheap.

Also...are the front end bushing links the same exact ones for the rear sway bar?

I might as well change those too, there also 12 years old.

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SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

Not sure on size, but the endlinks on the rear are not the same as the front.

therealcreeper

iTrader: (37)

your swaybars are 32 up front and 19 out back

in my opinion it's worth it to upgrade to poly endlinks, even with stock bars

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

rockauto.com is confusing on which are fronts and which are rears.

Which brands and where do you guys recommend I order 2 front bushings, 2 rear bushings...and the 2 front end links and 2 rear end links.

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SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

I just got endlinks from the local advance auto or Autozone. But they were stock style rubber (fine with me for now).

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, thats all I need too. Thats what I'll do, I guess Moog. I'm surpirsed how cheap end links are.

Oh...when I put in the bushingsand end links....do I just need the weight of the car off the tires? So jack stands under the frame. Then just unbolt everything and put the new stuff in?

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therealcreeper

iTrader: (37)

moog makes poly ones and rubber ones, so whichever you prefer. you can just go to your local autoparts store and ask for them, then you don't have to worry about ordering the wrong stuff (hopefully)

to install the endlinks you'll definitely need the suspension loaded, otherwise the lower a-arms and rear end are down too far to get the nut onto the threads. ramps would be your best bet.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Ok, so if I drive the front end on my ramps...I can just start unbolting the brackets and the end links...nothing is gonna take my head off? There won't be anything loaded up waiting to fly?

Then for the rears, I can jack the back up, then lower each wheel onto the ramps and take everything apart......???

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vjo90rs8

iTrader: (9)

Just do the back on ramp too. Last weekend I replaced some damaged (from over-tightening) poly end links with new ones and had no problem installing them on ramps.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Ok, so for the fronts and rears....on ramps....I can just start unbolting everything?

Nothing will be all loaded up with tension?

Should I unbolt one bushing and end link on one side and replace the parts and bolt it back up....then do the other side???

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vjo90rs8

iTrader: (9)

nothing will be loaded. Remove the end links then bushings, install new bushings and thread bolts in enough to keep the bar secure but loose. Install the end links and tighten them to 15ft-lbs, then tighten the bushing bolts. Make sure you get the end links as close to vertical as possible. The end links mounting points should be parallel to each other, this may require you to move the bar from side to side and go back and forth between tightening the bushing bolts and end links.

redracer1

iTrader: (2)

+1

Be carefull not to over tighten the endlinks the bushings should not be squished. Maybe a little locktite on the top nut

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

Instead of being lazy, you can also measure the sways with a Vernier Caliper, they sell them at Sears, etc. Best to measure closest to the bushing. ;-)

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Details...thanks, thats what I needed.

BTW...when I get home this week I'm installing new upper and lower a-arms, tie-rod ends (outers), and new front shocks. Does it matter if do the sway bar bushings and end-links AFTER the front end-alignment? Or should do it BEFORE the alignment with everything else? Or does it make no difference?

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LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Cool......ft. lbs. for the sway bar bushing bolts????

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LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Rather not buy a tool I'll never use again. Is there a chance my factory sway bars on my 98 WS6 got different size bars than everyone else????

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vjo90rs8

iTrader: (9)

my question is...with all those mods in your sig, why not just buy some UMI or Strano bars? They will come with new bushings and end links and pretty much complete your suspension setup.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Well, I was looking at this kit.
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...=129&ModelID=8

But my car is just a street car. New bushings and end links are like $40.00 total.

How much difference will I really feel with this car being just a street car if I spent the money on that kit?

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vjo90rs8

iTrader: (9)

those will make a pretty significant improvement, I would get those if I were you. Also, its funny when people say "I just have a street car" when they are running huge engine with cams, etc and are pushing almost 500hp. It will definitely make the car more fun to drive. At minimum some people run the 35mm front bar with the stock 19mm rear bar, so if you wanted, just get the UMI front and some rear poly bushings and end links. There was a day when the ST 35mm solid bar was only $125 which made it a great buy especially since it can with bushings and end links but those are about $173 now. The front UMI bar can be had for $156.74 shipped http://www.byunspeed.com/product_inf...843dd6f4d10285 and the rear bar is another $151.99. http://www.byunspeed.com/index.php?c...843dd6f4d10285