Custom Made VT rear Spring seat isolators !! Any Interest???
#21
So any negatives to using these with stock springs and Koni SAs? I assume the whole point of these is just to lower the rear to match the Koni front lowering perch. So with these given the above, will the front be lower than the rear?
I might be interested in some, depending on the answers... The price sounds a little high for what they are, however.
I might be interested in some, depending on the answers... The price sounds a little high for what they are, however.
The only negatives using these isolators over the oem ones is that they will be stiffer. At least by looking at and feeling the stock isolators. The stockers are really thick and pretty cushy. If anything it will make the rear feel spongy at initial suspension travel because the isolator will absorb the impact. The stockers are probably good if you are into a smooth ride.
The guys who do the heater hose mod lose mostly all of this compliance because heater hose is fairly thin and pretty soft to hold a vehicles weight.
The VT isolators have a few mm of rubber for spring cushioning in there and are designed for this EXACT purpose. Holding the rear coils of a vehicle on the chassis.
I think I elaborated on why I don't like the heater hose mod but I'll bring up a few points again.
There are 2 ways I've seen on doing the heater hose mod:
1. slice a heater hose and wrap it around the top coil and zip tie it.
My personal opinion on this is it probably works, but I just don't like how it looks and the idea I have hose on my coil held on by zip ties.
2. Slide heater hose on the top coil.
I actually tried to do this on Both my cars. It was impossible. the rear eibach coils i got with my Ground control Coil over kit had the top coils very close together. i couldnt for the life of me slide hose on to the coils.
Another BIG reason why I dont like the heater hose mod is that there is a bump on the chassis that centers the stock isolator. Without the isolator the spring has freedom to move in ALL directions when the suspension can get unloaded. It may not move much or any at all with stock springs or any progressive spring which is usually very tall and will still keep some sort of a load when extended but with lowering springs and at least the ones that come with the ground control kit its very possible that they would move when going over dips that can extend the rear suspension. That really bothered me.
The VT isolators imo are perfect for someone like you with Koni SAs and wants to use the lower perch in the front. You can lower the rear to match using an OEM like isolator that still centres the spring and evens the load out on the chassis better than the heater hose can. I ran SA's with Ground controls on my 01 z28 I had but I never did the lower perch setting because the ground control sleeve eliminates that altogether. For me, I was on the lowest adjustment in the rear with the Ground controls and I still needed it lower to match the front and these Isolators are absolutely perfect.
Right now, my rear sits great I'll try to dig up a good pic vs the stock isolators when i first lowered the car. Here is a pic of how it sits now in the back.
With regards to price, I really don't know what to say. I was happy with my own set but figured others may want something like this too so that's why Im offering them up. Im not doing this for a profit at all if anything I'll probably make enough for a coffee off each pair. The suppliers original order is over a million units. I cant compete with something like that. I could imagine if I ordered a million units these would probably be less than $5 a pair but i don't think the Wife would like how much the initial deposit or payment would have to be to start such an order !
Last edited by Nastyc4; 09-10-2010 at 12:44 PM.
#23
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i had the heater hose on for 7 years and no problems, but i thought EXACTLY like you and thought there had to be a better alternative. that being said, the car's weight probably does compress the spring enough to allow it to sit on the car evenly, or much closer than what the uncompressed spring appears it will do. also, the biggest issue as far as noise goes is hitting the bump stops, not dampening the sound between the spring and the car, because the hose will do that just fine. really the only way to prevent the bump stop hitting is by raising the height.
#24
i had the heater hose on for 7 years and no problems, but i thought EXACTLY like you and thought there had to be a better alternative. that being said, the car's weight probably does compress the spring enough to allow it to sit on the car evenly, or much closer than what the uncompressed spring appears it will do. also, the biggest issue as far as noise goes is hitting the bump stops, not dampening the sound between the spring and the car, because the hose will do that just fine. really the only way to prevent the bump stop hitting is by raising the height.
#26
Just an update didnt get to the p.o last night as soon as I got home the wife was waiting, handed my little girl to me and took off lol ! At least it was motivation to get the 2nd baby seat base installed in the ss which went well but by then the p.o was closed. Im heading out right now I'll email you guys the tracking #s etc when i get back.
Trying to get boxes for these wasnt as easy as i thought. Im going to see what the p.o can do perhaps even let them mail in a bubble envelope. if that works out it should be cheaper and ill refund u guys the difference
Trying to get boxes for these wasnt as easy as i thought. Im going to see what the p.o can do perhaps even let them mail in a bubble envelope. if that works out it should be cheaper and ill refund u guys the difference
#27
Everything was mailed out yesterday. I added a sheet of oem chassis stickers that are used on the chassis to cover holes that are not used in production. I ended up using thicker stuff in the pics but I just dont have nearly enough to be giving some of that stuff out plus its much heavier. I just felt that I covered the chassis when i did mine and maybe others would like to do something similar. SHipping was a little more than expected I ended up using bubble wrap bags and don't have a tracking # since they were small enough to go air mail. SHip times were the same as w/tracking but it saved me approx $8 each item. Shipping was still $10 each and theyre all insured for $50.
Looking forward to hearing your guys opinions Since I'm making nearly nothing at the $45 I asked I'll do that price for the 2 pairs I have left and when I get more I think I may have to ask a bit more.
so for now 2 pairs left !! $45 shipped.
Looking forward to hearing your guys opinions Since I'm making nearly nothing at the $45 I asked I'll do that price for the 2 pairs I have left and when I get more I think I may have to ask a bit more.
so for now 2 pairs left !! $45 shipped.
#29
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What car(s) did this isolator come off of? If I remember correctly, earlier Neons had an isolator that would work as well that was shorter (I might be wrong though).
Autozone or similar auto parts stores may sell an isolator that's the same as what you're using and would be a lot easier for people to get.
Autozone or similar auto parts stores may sell an isolator that's the same as what you're using and would be a lot easier for people to get.
#30
I have never heard of the neon isolator but that's pretty neat to hear. These ones I have aren't from a specific vehicle. the vehicles that are produced where I work use a larger diameter coil and the other a different setup that doesn't utilize an isolator. I had the vendor who makes the isolator make me a few in the diameter I wanted in the thickness I wanted.
#33
I think from what I have read about Konis having a lower front perch, this mod would be matched for that application perfectly.
I was really interested in this for a while since my last car, lowered on ground control coil overs and koni 4/4s, just wasn't low enough in the back. I had the front slammed and looked for ways to bring the rear down. The heater hose mod just didnt convince me enough to try it. I ended up raising the front
On my 2nd car, I had the exact same issue. Ground control coil overs on Bilsteins. Because I have a 20 inch rim in the back vs 19 fronts i NEEDED to have the rear as low as i wanted or else I would look like a 4x4. it looked good but with the front as low as I wanted I had to have the back lower. Again I thought about the heater hose mod and when i pulled the spring out I started looking for other ways. the first was to cut the oem isolator. It worked but I needed lower and it bothered me that my cutting sucked lol. Now my car sits perfect.
Here was my first z when I had the fronts where I wanted... the back is noticeably higher
I was really interested in this for a while since my last car, lowered on ground control coil overs and koni 4/4s, just wasn't low enough in the back. I had the front slammed and looked for ways to bring the rear down. The heater hose mod just didnt convince me enough to try it. I ended up raising the front
On my 2nd car, I had the exact same issue. Ground control coil overs on Bilsteins. Because I have a 20 inch rim in the back vs 19 fronts i NEEDED to have the rear as low as i wanted or else I would look like a 4x4. it looked good but with the front as low as I wanted I had to have the back lower. Again I thought about the heater hose mod and when i pulled the spring out I started looking for other ways. the first was to cut the oem isolator. It worked but I needed lower and it bothered me that my cutting sucked lol. Now my car sits perfect.
Here was my first z when I had the fronts where I wanted... the back is noticeably higher
#35
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Going to put my set of isolators on the car tonight. Since I already have the front all done I can tell the car is going to be ridiculously low.
This is whats being put on the car right now.
Front Single Adjustable Koni Yellows
Rear 3rd Gen Koni Yellows
F & R LG (G2) Springs
Spohn Upper A-Arms with Delrin Bushings
Car already had:
Pavlock Rod Ended PHB
Spohn Chromoly RCA's with Del-Sphere Joints
LG (G2) Full Length Torque Arm
UMI 3 Point Bolt in Subframe Connectors
Front 1LE 32MM Sway with Poly Bushings / Endlinks
Stock 19mm Rear Sway with Poly Bushings / Endlinks
This is whats being put on the car right now.
Front Single Adjustable Koni Yellows
Rear 3rd Gen Koni Yellows
F & R LG (G2) Springs
Spohn Upper A-Arms with Delrin Bushings
Car already had:
Pavlock Rod Ended PHB
Spohn Chromoly RCA's with Del-Sphere Joints
LG (G2) Full Length Torque Arm
UMI 3 Point Bolt in Subframe Connectors
Front 1LE 32MM Sway with Poly Bushings / Endlinks
Stock 19mm Rear Sway with Poly Bushings / Endlinks
#36
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Shockwave, I'd like to see pics if you get around to taking some. I was thinking about doing Koni 4/3 setup with lower perch on the front and hose mod out back with stock springs. The roads out here aren't too good and I don't want to scrape on everything. Let us know how it works out!
PS - I'm in Western NY too! Rochester.
PS - I'm in Western NY too! Rochester.
#37
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Just finished this and its really freakin low and obviously its going to settle even more. Definitly need an alignment and some fine tuning. Car looks like crap because its been sitting for weeks. I might put up a few pictures up tonight though.
BTW I'm in Rochester too.
BTW I'm in Rochester too.
#38
Going to put my set of isolators on the car tonight. Since I already have the front all done I can tell the car is going to be ridiculously low.
This is whats being put on the car right now.
Front Single Adjustable Koni Yellows
Rear 3rd Gen Koni Yellows
F & R LG (G2) Springs
Spohn Upper A-Arms with Delrin Bushings
Car already had:
Pavlock Rod Ended PHB
Spohn Chromoly RCA's with Del-Sphere Joints
LG (G2) Full Length Torque Arm
UMI 3 Point Bolt in Subframe Connectors
Front 1LE 32MM Sway with Poly Bushings / Endlinks
Stock 19mm Rear Sway with Poly Bushings / Endlinks
This is whats being put on the car right now.
Front Single Adjustable Koni Yellows
Rear 3rd Gen Koni Yellows
F & R LG (G2) Springs
Spohn Upper A-Arms with Delrin Bushings
Car already had:
Pavlock Rod Ended PHB
Spohn Chromoly RCA's with Del-Sphere Joints
LG (G2) Full Length Torque Arm
UMI 3 Point Bolt in Subframe Connectors
Front 1LE 32MM Sway with Poly Bushings / Endlinks
Stock 19mm Rear Sway with Poly Bushings / Endlinks
Can't wait to hear your thoughts and how it looks
#39
Dug up some pics on how much difference these made on my rear vs 'already cut' oem isolators.
I can easily take some before and after pics but I need a stock set of oems from someone so I can get an accurate picture. here's one I dug up...
cut oem isolators: At least to me you could really make out the rake from the front to rear like this. I hated it and needed it lower in the back. Right after the pic is the most recent side shot that has the VT isolators.
I can easily take some before and after pics but I need a stock set of oems from someone so I can get an accurate picture. here's one I dug up...
cut oem isolators: At least to me you could really make out the rake from the front to rear like this. I hated it and needed it lower in the back. Right after the pic is the most recent side shot that has the VT isolators.
#40
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The car looks great man. I'll be on stock springs. Bought the car with Sportlines installed but quickly sold those and got some low mileage stockers. I don't care for the 'slammed' look. And my TSP catted y hangs a little low but I do think these cars look good with a small drop. That's why I thought Koni's lower perch and hose or new isolators.
I do like a slight 'raked' look. Any idea if Koni lower perch and these isolators will keep a slight rake to the car? Or would it level right out?
I do like a slight 'raked' look. Any idea if Koni lower perch and these isolators will keep a slight rake to the car? Or would it level right out?