LS1TAUTO

iTrader: (1)

In need 1 new bad wats the differnece between a none adj vs adj and wats the best bang for the buck torque arm on the market??? Its making a noise like a bang from right under my tranny soon as i come to a stop bang! Not very loud but U can def hear it. Bmr or umi????

mesterious

iTrader: (3)

Adjustable torque arms can change your pinion angle while non-adjustable torque arms as far as I know come with a -2 pinion angle at factory ride height. I would say get a full length adjustable torque arm from UMI or BMR sense you don't like the clunk sound because if you went with the tunnel mount, they usually have the sound. I have also heard that if you relocate the full length one it clunks also.

The pro to the tunnel mount is that you get more weight transfer than a full length and you get it off the transmission tail shaft and keeps it from getting damaged and if you relocate the full length one you are taking it off of the transmission but idk what kind of racing you do or if you do any at all but from the looks of your sig you do drag racing.

LS1TAUTO

iTrader: (1)

Ya im ganna race with but its also ganna be driven on streets for must part i want somethin to not make noise and do its part. So i should be lookin into the adj ones for racing?

mesterious

iTrader: (3)

Yup get a full length adjustable torque arm. If you are going to lower your car it's really good to have a adjustable torque arm to set your pinion angle because the pinion angle changes as you lower the car. Pinion angle being off can change a lot when it comes to hooking. Then when you feel like making a compromise you can relocate with UMI's relocating bracket for the full length torque arms.

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

Hello,

Like mentioned above since the car is more of a street car go with a full length torque arm. The full length arm does not add additional noise or harshness to your ride but does offer a performance gain. Adjustable is going to allow pinion angle to be adjusted, the non-adjustable has negative pinion angle built into it but this is only accurate when the vehicle is at factory height. If you are lowered or plan on lowering go with the adjustable for the best performance from the vehicle. I posted two links below... we have these on sale until Sunday as well

Non-Adjustable Torque Arm

Adjustable Torque Arm

Happy New Year!
Ryan

duckvader

iTrader: (1)

so if you have a stock height car the non adjust torque arm will be good. i am going to order non adjust ta, subframe connctors , lower control arm relocaton brackets from summitt today. the weld on subframe connectors with bolts, do they rattle when just bolted on. i have a conv.

ShortChevy

iTrader: (21)

Are you sure your TA is even "bad"? If it is banging around it is prolly your TA mount/bushing, also check your tranny mount.

NVR_SPDS

iTrader: (39)

I got an Edelbrock non adjustable sitting in my garage, takin up space. 100.00 and its yours. Im in denair, so we could meet up.

Jimmy P

iTrader: (177)

I was about to say the same thing..The factory rubber bushings will tear before the actual torque arm will brake/bend. Especially if they are old and oil soacked.

You should probably take a look under there and see what is actually causing the noise. It could very well just be a bushing.

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

Yes if the vehicle is factory height the non-adjustable torque arm would work well and would place your pinion angle at -2 degrees.. granted your height is correct.

If you go with the weld in SFC's they only include longer rear control arm bolts and no other bolts, so they must be welded. If you go with the bolt on set up they include all the bolts and brackets to make them a 100% bolt on set up. We haven't had any issues with bolts coming loose or rattling, welding is also best no matter what and the bolt in set up can be welded at any time.

Thanks for the business
Ryan