95batmobile

iTrader: (2)

I have the c5 brake it on my 95 ta with hawk pads and slotted cryo frozen rotors... and it does not stop with the power that i would like it too... with a vette brake i would this it would be alot better than my stock lt1 brakes... but its not that much better.... it has a new master cylinder and stailess brake lines, as well as using amsoil brake fluid.....

is there anything i can do to boost the pressure or anything? im just not happy with the set up the way it is now

thanks

Brakemotive

iTrader: (73)

First question is how many miles are on the new set up? It can take over a thousand miles for the rotors/pads to bed in when new.

Also, no mention of a break in done? Did you do one after the install? If so what steps did you follow?

After replacing that much stuff, air in the system is a very real possibility. You should be able to practically lock them up (activate abs) and feel like your eyeballs are gunna pop out. I suspect if the complaint is more line pressure that you still have air in there somewhere.

Did you bench bleed the master? Cycle the ABS motor and rebleed? You're not using a silicone DOT 5 fluid are you?

95batmobile

iTrader: (2)

I did not do the brake kit install myself... i had my mechanic do it... but i did not do any break in steps.... there is probably around 2k miles on it now... it will lock up really easily but its not sensative at all... i have to press down pretty far for it to start to break enough to stop....

and i wanna say amsoil dot 3.... but i dont remember....

Brakemotive

iTrader: (73)

That's weird because a move out kit should actually make the response more sensative... I would double check the master cylinder - make sure the bore on it is the correct size. It could also be a matter of pad selection, to hot or too cold a pad will affect the initial bite characteristics. Do you have a receipt for the master cylinder, can you double check the PN?

95batmobile

iTrader: (2)

we did the master cylinder a few years ago... i had recipts at one time but prob not for that long ago.... im probably going to get the fluid drained (or whatever it is called) and then get a really "hot?" type of pad.... what would you recommend?

SVThuh

iTrader: (2)

A "hot" pad means that it wont reach its optimum coefficient of friction until it has a lot of heat put in it. Likely something you dont want on the street.. At least most people dont. A good performance street pad should be quite sufficient.

What Hawk pads are you running? HPS? HP+?

The fluid you have in the system is good fluid. I have run it in the past and I can vouch for it. Very similar to a track day favorite Motul RBF600.

I would do as BrakeMotive suggested and rebleed. If your still not happy, I would pull the rotors, have them turned, and complete a proper bed-in procedure.

Check here for some good bed-in procedures.. Properly bedding in your bed in your pads and rotors can make a night and day difference in the braking systems performance.

95batmobile

iTrader: (2)

^^^ thats the plan... and im stinking to it.

and i think its hps