STB install, AC line removal?
#1
STB install, AC line removal?
Went to throw on my STB brace yesterday. The UMI instructions mentioned that some cars will need to remove an AC line on the passenger side to install it. I went to put it on, and sure enough, the AC line is in the way.
It says that the line isn't pressurized, so it's okay to take off. It's the top line that runs from the AC condensor to the heater core on the firewall. Whats the best way to get this line off? Will a regular wrench work?
I tired to get at it yesterday, but its pretty cramped for space and decided that I should figure out what I'm doing before I go any further...
Thanks...
It says that the line isn't pressurized, so it's okay to take off. It's the top line that runs from the AC condensor to the heater core on the firewall. Whats the best way to get this line off? Will a regular wrench work?
I tired to get at it yesterday, but its pretty cramped for space and decided that I should figure out what I'm doing before I go any further...
Thanks...
#4
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Went to throw on my STB brace yesterday. The UMI instructions mentioned that some cars will need to remove an AC line on the passenger side to install it. I went to put it on, and sure enough, the AC line is in the way.
It says that the line isn't pressurized, so it's okay to take off. It's the top line that runs from the AC condensor to the heater core on the firewall. Whats the best way to get this line off? Will a regular wrench work?
I tired to get at it yesterday, but its pretty cramped for space and decided that I should figure out what I'm doing before I go any further...
Thanks...
It says that the line isn't pressurized, so it's okay to take off. It's the top line that runs from the AC condensor to the heater core on the firewall. Whats the best way to get this line off? Will a regular wrench work?
I tired to get at it yesterday, but its pretty cramped for space and decided that I should figure out what I'm doing before I go any further...
Thanks...
Having said that, what part of the brace won't slip into place? I installed a 3 point STB in my car a LONG time ago, although not a UMI part. The A/C lines are quite close, that's true, but I was able to squeeze the brace past them. You ARE remembering that you have to lower the shock/spring assembly on one side of the car, in order to get the brace over the studs, right?
#5
The UMI instructions don't say anything about doing that. The inner part of the base (part closest to the engine itself) will not slip between the lines. I push and pulled on the line trying to slip it in (Its really close) to the point were I didn't feel comfortable doing it anymore, seeing as the line is connected to the heater core I didnt want to risk damaging anything...
#6
TECH Resident
The UMI instructions don't say anything about doing that. The inner part of the base (part closest to the engine itself) will not slip between the lines. I push and pulled on the line trying to slip it in (Its really close) to the point were I didn't feel comfortable doing it anymore, seeing as the line is connected to the heater core I didnt want to risk damaging anything...
#7
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (1)
The UMI instructions don't say anything about doing that. The inner part of the base (part closest to the engine itself) will not slip between the lines. I push and pulled on the line trying to slip it in (Its really close) to the point were I didn't feel comfortable doing it anymore, seeing as the line is connected to the heater core I didnt want to risk damaging anything...
Keep in mind, that the "shock tower" is like an "inverted V", and the studs of the upper shock mount, which the brace has to go over, are angled inward. Most, if not all, of the STBs, have holes and not slots, that these studs pass through, so you CANNOT get the brace to slip over both pair of the studs at the same time.
When I installed my STB many years ago, and in fact, the couple of times I had to remove it for engine work, I removed the nuts and bolts from the upper shock mount, disconnected the sway bar link on one side of the bar, jacked the car so the tire is about 2" off the ground, pushed on the tire so the studs slipped out of the way, slid the bar over the studs on the opposite side of the car, then released the tire, guiding the studs up through other side of the STB. Then re-install the nuts and bolts, and reconnect the sway bar.
As a side note, I just took a walk out to the garage, and looked at my car... My STB, which came from LG Motorsports back in '96, curves down and over both of the a/c lines, and looking at the way things are, at least in my car, I don't see how it could be done differently. Therefore I don't see the need to disconnect any lines.....