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STB install, AC line removal?

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Old 04-27-2011, 12:39 PM
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Default STB install, AC line removal?

Went to throw on my STB brace yesterday. The UMI instructions mentioned that some cars will need to remove an AC line on the passenger side to install it. I went to put it on, and sure enough, the AC line is in the way.

It says that the line isn't pressurized, so it's okay to take off. It's the top line that runs from the AC condensor to the heater core on the firewall. Whats the best way to get this line off? Will a regular wrench work?

I tired to get at it yesterday, but its pretty cramped for space and decided that I should figure out what I'm doing before I go any further...

Thanks...
Old 04-28-2011, 01:39 AM
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Nobody knows how to remove this ac line?
Old 04-28-2011, 02:47 AM
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It's been a while since I've taken my off but I'm pretty sure all I used was a wrench.
Old 04-28-2011, 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by MasterTomos
Went to throw on my STB brace yesterday. The UMI instructions mentioned that some cars will need to remove an AC line on the passenger side to install it. I went to put it on, and sure enough, the AC line is in the way.

It says that the line isn't pressurized, so it's okay to take off. It's the top line that runs from the AC condensor to the heater core on the firewall. Whats the best way to get this line off? Will a regular wrench work?

I tired to get at it yesterday, but its pretty cramped for space and decided that I should figure out what I'm doing before I go any further...

Thanks...
I would certainly think that a well-known outfit such as UMI would know what they're doing, BUT to the best of my knowledge, an A/C system is a "closed system" that should not be opened, allowing either Freon to escape, OR atmosphere to be let in.

Having said that, what part of the brace won't slip into place? I installed a 3 point STB in my car a LONG time ago, although not a UMI part. The A/C lines are quite close, that's true, but I was able to squeeze the brace past them. You ARE remembering that you have to lower the shock/spring assembly on one side of the car, in order to get the brace over the studs, right?
Old 04-29-2011, 04:16 AM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
You ARE remembering that you have to lower the shock/spring assembly on one side of the car, in order to get the brace over the studs, right?
The UMI instructions don't say anything about doing that. The inner part of the base (part closest to the engine itself) will not slip between the lines. I push and pulled on the line trying to slip it in (Its really close) to the point were I didn't feel comfortable doing it anymore, seeing as the line is connected to the heater core I didnt want to risk damaging anything...
Old 04-29-2011, 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by MasterTomos
The UMI instructions don't say anything about doing that. The inner part of the base (part closest to the engine itself) will not slip between the lines. I push and pulled on the line trying to slip it in (Its really close) to the point were I didn't feel comfortable doing it anymore, seeing as the line is connected to the heater core I didnt want to risk damaging anything...
Can you take a pic of what you're having issues with? I don't run one anymore but I used to run a UMI STB and all I had to undo was a little sensor or something on the A/C line (cant remember exactly what it was). You just unplug the wire and undo it with a wrench. From there the brace went right in.
Old 04-29-2011, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by MasterTomos
The UMI instructions don't say anything about doing that. The inner part of the base (part closest to the engine itself) will not slip between the lines. I push and pulled on the line trying to slip it in (Its really close) to the point were I didn't feel comfortable doing it anymore, seeing as the line is connected to the heater core I didnt want to risk damaging anything...
Your caution is well placed.....


Keep in mind, that the "shock tower" is like an "inverted V", and the studs of the upper shock mount, which the brace has to go over, are angled inward. Most, if not all, of the STBs, have holes and not slots, that these studs pass through, so you CANNOT get the brace to slip over both pair of the studs at the same time.

When I installed my STB many years ago, and in fact, the couple of times I had to remove it for engine work, I removed the nuts and bolts from the upper shock mount, disconnected the sway bar link on one side of the bar, jacked the car so the tire is about 2" off the ground, pushed on the tire so the studs slipped out of the way, slid the bar over the studs on the opposite side of the car, then released the tire, guiding the studs up through other side of the STB. Then re-install the nuts and bolts, and reconnect the sway bar.


As a side note, I just took a walk out to the garage, and looked at my car... My STB, which came from LG Motorsports back in '96, curves down and over both of the a/c lines, and looking at the way things are, at least in my car, I don't see how it could be done differently. Therefore I don't see the need to disconnect any lines.....
Old 05-02-2011, 10:41 AM
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I gave it another shot and was actually able to get it on without removing that line for anybody looking at this in the future. It's kind of tricky, and takes some maneurvering, but is actually pretty easy when you know just how to put it on/take it off.
Old 05-02-2011, 01:04 PM
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Weird... never had trouble on mine. I can take mine completely off and put it back on whenever. I don't have UMI tho...



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