LS1Vince

pro's and cons? i was talkin to my mechanic about my squealing brakes today and he said my slotted rotors could be the issue(there is a slight lip around the edges and one of the slots has a slight edge and seems to be grabbing alittle). But there could be some i think its called glazing over the Pad, which i can take care of, but i was thinking about going back to stock rotors to see if there would be any changes. any thoughts as to you prefer and why?

skorpion317

iTrader: (8)

I would think squealing brakes would be more related to the brake pads. If they're worn down they'll squeal. If you have more aggressive performance brake pads, they can squeal also.

Quality blank rotors are the best choice for braking performance. Slotted or cross-drilled rotors will not stop as well.

LS1Vince

well thats the thing, my brakes are fine lol even my mechanic said that maybe changing out the slotted rotors would be it. my pads are fine, lots of life left in them, im not sure what kind they are (previous owner installed them, as well as the rotors) but i have the stock ones, so i might just throw those back on and see what happens. :/

Ghostintheshell

SVThuh

iTrader: (2)

:sigh:

I think I will mostly just steer clear of this one...

OP: You may want to do some actual research on braking systems and symptoms... Squeal could be induced my a multitude of things.. Most likely however, it is not your slotted rotors..

LS1Vince

well thats why i came and asked.....to see if there was anyone else that had a similar problem SVT. Sorry for using the Board correctly? instead of telling me to look it up and do more research, a simple link to a website explaining what it could be or being somewhat nice about my question would of worked too.

Brakemotive

iTrader: (73)

Slotted rotors can create some additional noise under heavy load but it's more of a "chopping" noise. The squeal has nothing to do with your slotted rotors. The majority of low speed squeal is caused by harmonic vibration. New caliper hardware (abutment clips) and lube at all the critical contact points (a quality ceramic lubricant like ceramlube) would be my first step.

LS1Vince

awesome. Thanks man. that was the reply i was looking for!

SVThuh

iTrader: (2)

Sorry.. After re-reading my response, I guess I was being a bit of a dick... I was tired and grumpy when I posted that.

Lube everything up like the post above states.. If it still squeals, you likely have some cementite building up.

This article deals with "warped" rotors, but there is good information to be found for your situation also.

LS1Vince

Thanks SVT, that's pretty helpful. i actually read thru that thread today. im gonna go ahead and do what you said and see what happens. thanks again man!

ssdeuce74

iTrader: (2)

my f250 squeals after slotted rotors

TheSilverOne

iTrader: (22)

Get some disc brake quiet and apply it to the back of the pads. Also, get some caliper lube and apply it to the caliper pins, sleeves, bushings and pistons. Make sure to clean everything first.

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

Its time for new rotors and pads myself but I will be avoiding slotted/drilled rotors. Blanks are the way to go IMO.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

I've been through every type of rotor over the years. The best rotors are the most inexpensive blank rotors you can find.

WHY? Cheep rotors will stop your car just as well as the most expensive rotors. And they ALL can and will warp, no matter how expensive they might be.

Drilled rotors may lead to cracks and reduce weight. You want the full weight rotors-it's the mass of the rotor that absorbs the energy (heat). Grooved or slotted rotors do nothing-but can lead to shorter pad life.

Spend your money elsewhere. EBC Yellowstuff pads are terrific and worth every penny.

meine96ws6

iTrader: (4)

thats crazy to hear, i have had my "slotted" rotors for as long as i can remember...I HAVE NEVER HAD AN ISSUE...

and if "blank" rotors are the best to use.. why do every single higher end exotic car not have them?

most all sport bikes, z06's, vipers, and such all use slotted or crossdrilled for a reason...

i hate when some people just pull their comments out their ***!

cnd99hawk

iTrader: (2)

Check this thread.. Very in depth review of slotted vs. blanks and pros/cons of each.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...nk-rotors.html

JD_AMG

Pretty broad statement there, you may want to be more specific. You should be fine just putting around with cheap rotors, but in performance applications and track events I don't see cheap rotors holding up as well as quality ones - Ive seen cheap blank rotors crack as well. Buying a quality blank rotor is what you want. Less prone to warping (yes, I just went there), cracking and likely will last longer because of thickness.

Not this again...
Check out the race versions of those cars, you will see many of them running blanks.