what can we do besides bolt ons?
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what can we do besides bolt ons?
I've been thinking a lot lately about keeping or selling my firebird. It's either keep it for another year and get a c5 z06 or keep it and keep building. Only reason i'd get the vette is because of independent suspension, weight, and a smaller size because I want the thing to handle. Yes I know they are completely different but if I can get the bird to handle like its on rails, ill keep it. That being said, what, if anything, can we do besides bolt ins (subframes, control/a arms, etc) to get these things to really turn? I know its bigger, heavier, and a live axle but is there anything else we can do?
#2
Do you have Koni shocks? Strano Springs? Watts link? Sway bars both front and back?? There are countless things you can do to your suspension that will make your car handle like its on rails.
I doubt you have every single quality suspension mod possible, or you wouldn't be posting this you would be satisfied.
Keep the bird...thats my vote.
I doubt you have every single quality suspension mod possible, or you wouldn't be posting this you would be satisfied.
Keep the bird...thats my vote.
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Haha, you got me, I do have a little work to do with my suspension but no one I've talked to has ever seemed to get one of these things to really carve. I have the strano springs and a strano bar up front with bilsteins but those are gonna be ditched for ground control's with konis, also have 3pt weld on subframes from UMI.
How much better is a watts link? I originally was thinking about it but haven't heard many reviews on a watts link like the fays2 set up. Are they that much better then a panhard?
Hmm, never heard of unbalanced engineering but I'll give em a check out, thanks man. That torque arm looks gnarly! Yeah, that's definately a thought too..I was thinking maybe the CTS-V brake set up?
How much better is a watts link? I originally was thinking about it but haven't heard many reviews on a watts link like the fays2 set up. Are they that much better then a panhard?
Hmm, never heard of unbalanced engineering but I'll give em a check out, thanks man. That torque arm looks gnarly! Yeah, that's definately a thought too..I was thinking maybe the CTS-V brake set up?
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The bird is the last of their breed. For this reason alone, I'm keeping my bird and keep building it. I've Koni, Vogtland spring, 2pt weld-in SBC, 35mm front swaybar, LCA, Corvette front brake and 18x9.5 all around. I can keep up with my friend's 08 STi in the corner no problem.
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#8
It's no Vette, but it handles pretty good...
My '02 Z28 handles pretty good and it's still on stock springs, shocks & brakes (ok... HPS pads)
http://www.youtube.com/user/2002Mark2002
List of current mods are in the video description...
Reality is you'll never get it to handle like a Vette, all else being equal... Question is, will your skill level ever get to the point that makes a difference...
I love my f-body... and I really love when people come to me at the track wanting to see it because they're surprised that a Camaro passed them on the track. You know... Camaro's aren't supposed to be able to handle!
Mark.
http://www.youtube.com/user/2002Mark2002
List of current mods are in the video description...
Reality is you'll never get it to handle like a Vette, all else being equal... Question is, will your skill level ever get to the point that makes a difference...
I love my f-body... and I really love when people come to me at the track wanting to see it because they're surprised that a Camaro passed them on the track. You know... Camaro's aren't supposed to be able to handle!
Mark.
#11
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Psyco..there are lots of little tricks. If your car is lowered you can shorten your swaybar links to get the bar back to level, a good aggresive alignment, !weight, and really good tires like r compounds.
If your car is lowered enoungh you can remove your upper panhard brace and shorten your panhard a little and bolt the ph and the hole that was left by the brace. That get's your roll centers back in check....then ya don't need that expensive and heavy watts link.
Do those tricks and you WILL have a completely different car.
If your car is lowered enoungh you can remove your upper panhard brace and shorten your panhard a little and bolt the ph and the hole that was left by the brace. That get's your roll centers back in check....then ya don't need that expensive and heavy watts link.
Do those tricks and you WILL have a completely different car.
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Sam Strano has won a **** ton of races in an f-body, you can make them handle. Mine handles leagues better than it did stock. I've got BMR springs, HPS pads, power slot rotors, UMI shock tower brace, UMI 2-point weld in subframe connectors, UMI adjustable panhard bar, UMI LCA w/ relocation, UMI front & rear sway bars, MWC torque arm. It handles with pretty much anything you'd run into on the street. Vette's are cool, but I'm definitely partial to the f-bodies.
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I'm not saying there aren't parts that will get you close, but I've out-driven guys in Corvettes who had more grip, better brakes, better suspension and higher power - all because they couldn't drive as well as me in my car.
I'm sure a conversation with Sam Strano will give you some positive real world direction and advice on what works and doesn't with your car along with reasons why.
#15
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Psyco..there are lots of little tricks. If your car is lowered you can shorten your swaybar links to get the bar back to level, a good aggresive alignment, !weight, and really good tires like r compounds.
If your car is lowered enoungh you can remove your upper panhard brace and shorten your panhard a little and bolt the ph and the hole that was left by the brace. That get's your roll centers back in check....then ya don't need that expensive and heavy watts link.
Do those tricks and you WILL have a completely different car.
If your car is lowered enoungh you can remove your upper panhard brace and shorten your panhard a little and bolt the ph and the hole that was left by the brace. That get's your roll centers back in check....then ya don't need that expensive and heavy watts link.
Do those tricks and you WILL have a completely different car.
With the right mods you can hang with/beat a stock C5 Z06 no prob, but of course you wont get the feel of a 3000lbs car with 50/50 weight balance and IRS. You certainly won't be doing much of anything with factory shocks though...
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1 Psycho, I'm not knocking your skills as a driver, but improving the driver is the most important change you can make. Honestly this will make a bigger difference than any parts you can buy. Once you get your driving in check I would work on getting solid parts under the car, you need a setup that works for you with those parts.
I'm not saying there aren't parts that will get you close, but I've out-driven guys in Corvettes who had more grip, better brakes, better suspension and higher power - all because they couldn't drive as well as me in my car.
I'm sure a conversation with Sam Strano will give you some positive real world direction and advice on what works and doesn't with your car along with reasons why.
I'm not saying there aren't parts that will get you close, but I've out-driven guys in Corvettes who had more grip, better brakes, better suspension and higher power - all because they couldn't drive as well as me in my car.
I'm sure a conversation with Sam Strano will give you some positive real world direction and advice on what works and doesn't with your car along with reasons why.
Bottom line is, it's you need a fast driver first, then a fast machine second.
#19
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I realise this....but your not talking about alot of movement. On a smoother type race or autoX course I would think 3" of supension travel would be alot for a properly sprung/shocked car traveling at speed. On a 3'+ ph bar that's not much arc if it's properly set up to be in the middle of the arc....1.5 each way. Getting your tire pressure right will make more difference.