Homeless2bNY

iTrader: (2)

I'm about to get a complete new suspenion set up for my SS from BMR

What I'm getting:

Strut tower brace
Touque Arm
Sway bar kit
K-member
Lower A-arms
Upper A-arms??????????????

I don't know if I NEED to get the adjustable Upper A-arms or i can get away with the non-adjustable poly ones to do what i want????

The question I have is can I get 3-5 degrees of camber in the front by adjusting just the Lower A-arms out in the K-member?
This just a question of a curious person. lol, i know its A LOT!!!!

Or to achieve the amount of camber I need/want, I'm gonna need to get the adjustable Upper A-arms?

Just good solid advice and a YES or NO is all i need from ppl that did it already.

This is to save 100 bucks between the 2 A-arm choices and get maybe a lil better/softer ride having poly mounts over solid adjustable rod ends.

Thnks

Mark2002

iTrader: (2)

3-5deg camber is a LOT! (I'm assuming negative) Adjustable lowers won't get you there by themselves. When you start putting a lot of neg camber in the castor starts moving more negative even if you don't touch the castor bolt. Unfortunately, adjustable lowers won't gain you any adjustment for castor since the arm and adjustment for castor is about 45 degrees to the centerline of the car, but the slot in the K-member is perpendicular to the centerline. Adjusting the castor end of the arm longer or shorter only makes the bolt no longer line up with the K-member slot. Castor adjustment is still limited by the K-member slot. The only way to gain additional castor adjustment is to either get the adjustable uppers, or elongate the castor slot in the K-member for the lowers.

Mark.

Homeless2bNY

iTrader: (2)

so i will need the adjustable upper A-arms unless i want to cut into the K-member and make the slots longer to push the lower A-arms out for the negative camber i want to achieve then.

ok, thats not real big deal i guess.

yea i know its a lot of camber. lol.
WAIT till you see it when i'm done and what i'm doing.

speed_demon24

iTrader: (6)

If you need that much camber a drag racing k-member isn't a wise choice.

Homeless2bNY

iTrader: (2)

what makes this a "drag racing" K-member?

there are a ton of ppl that use these on street cars and
road race cars.

if you wanna make a statement, back it up with some reasoning.

RAMPANT

iTrader: (17)

You do not want to use that K member as a RR part. It is very light, but not as strong as stock.

For camber 2 degrees is plenty. I am running 2.1 camber with what think was 5.5 caster. I do run a different K member, but it has gussets everywhere on it and not as light. Tube A arms are not that strong either, I broke a set and got lucky it did not tear up the body. Check out the FRRAX forums for info on serious handling set ups for these cars.

Homeless2bNY

iTrader: (2)

thanks i will check out the forum.

this is my daily driver so i don't need over biult.
just weight loss and increased adjustability

RAMPANT

iTrader: (17)

No problem, I would also suggest calling Strano Performance before buying anything. He knows how to set one of these cars up to handle and will not steer you wrong.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

The adjustable uppers will add some precision and give you some good negative camber up front. We had a car pushing -3.5 up front with the adjustable uppers and lowers. The lowers will provide better articulation and adjustment in caster. The solid rods ends aren't really going to make the car ride any harder, it will just increase NVH (Noise, Vibration, and Harshness). So a new hum may emerge from the front of the car. Really, if you're looking to pull -2.5 or more camber up front, you're probably not too concerned with that kind of stuff. haha

I you would like to talk things over, give me a call and we can figure it out. The parts you listed are a good selection, but we may not need to do a K-member, I would like to talk about your goals with the car and what you plan to use it for.

-Kevin
813-986-9302