SilverTAWS6

I finally decided to go with Stainless steel brake lines, and my friend and I are going to attempt to install them ourselves. I have TCS, so I have the extra kit from Thunder to get all the hoses. I also have DOT 4 fluid to replace the stock stuff with. While I'm at it, my line loc has been seeping from the bottom line (SLP) so I'd like to take that off and throw some thread sealer on it. What's the best way to proceed with everything? What kind of tools do I need?

Any help is appreciated.

Chris

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Out of curiosity, what type of driving do you do that makes you think you need SS braided brake lines? and related to that, what DOT 4 brake fluid?

When you get your SS braided brake lines, they will come with aluminum alloy seals (washers). Throw them MF'ers away!!!! Go to your local parts store and get real, copper seals. Trust me on this one ....

What tools? Line wrenches. Some of the fittings are in tight places and a regular wrench could easily round off a fitting.

Remember, brake fluid is caustic and will eat your paint.

You shouldn't need thread sealer. The threads on a brake system are self sealing. Using a sealer might get into the brake system and contaminate the whole system.

For heaven's sake ... do NOT let the MC run low. Only do one line at a time and get everything sealed back up before proceeding to the next line section.

Good luck

SilverTAWS6

I'm doing an open track event in a couple weeks, plus I do heavy autocrossing most of the year when there isn't snow on the ground . Unfortunately the SLP line lock kinda sucks and it seems to VERY SLOWLY leak some fluid. It's already eaten up some of the paint in the engine compartment. If there's some other way to stop it, I'd be up for it. I just hate how it always leaks (the nut is as tight as it will go).

When I do the lines, do I need a bolt or something to put in where the line connects so that it doesn't leak while I get the lines in place, or do I just need to be fast at it?

Chris

RobzwickidSS

sorry about latching on to this thread but I installed the ss brake lines that came with the thunder racing kit and I have DOT 3 fluid in there. Is that a problem or will it be ok. I dont do any autocross I only installed them because they came with the kit.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

For street duty, DOT 3 is OK.

Chris, OTing your car will boil off the shelf brake fluid ... DOT 3, 4 or 5.1. I suggest getting something that's a little more temperature friendly. AX isn't NEARLy as hard on the fluid as OTing ...

ATE super blue, Motul 5.1 (not AP600) ... event eh Ford HD truck brake fluid will work fine.

If you have everything ready to go, you should be able to swap the lines w/o the need to "plug" the system.

2MCHPWR

iTrader: (10)

mitch, chris has ATE super blue

SilverTAWS6

ATE super blue is exactly what I have to go in there
So it looks like I'll be all prepared.
Do I keep the resevoir cap on while I do this or do I take it off?
What is the correct way to bleed all the lines when I'm done?
Sorry for asking so many questions, but with something as import as brakes, I want to make sure I don't screw anything up.

Chris

RobzwickidSS

I took the cap off making sure during bleeding that I did not let the MC run dry. I also picked up a set of Earls solo bleeders and they seemed to work very well. I just hooked up a piece of clear tube and ran it into a clear plastic cup. Started with the Pass rear.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Bleed the sytem the old fashioned way ... no big deal ...

I tried speed bleeders and they worked fantastic when new. But after a couple of heat cycles, they began to leak air around the threads.

They are probably just fine for street duty. But for street duty, you don't bleed you brakes as often. So watcha gonna do ...

SilverTAWS6

Just two more questions.

1. What is the OD and ID size of the crush washer? The parts store gave me two different ones.

2. What is the procedure for bleeding brakes with TCS? Haynes says I need some sort of special bleeder. Is this true?

Chris

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

It's metric is all I can recall.

Never touched a TCS car ... but I can't believe it would have any affect. Does the brake system feed into something other than the ABS module?

SilverTAWS6

Apparently I just have to keep it from running dry (whew!).
I know the bleeding method is RR, LR, RF, LF, but should the car be on or off.
I've never had to really bleed brakes before .

Does GM use the copper washers stock? I might just pick some up from them then.


EDIT: Actually nevermind. I found out GM does stock the washers (heck of a lot cheaper then local Car Parts) and I think I'll have a local shop install the lines. I just don't want to end up getting the ABS all fugged up and needing to have a shop bleed the system anyway.

Chris

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

It's not that hard, Chris. It just takes good communication between the person at the wheel and the person pumping the pedal.

SLIDER

Thanks Mitchntx for helping me a year ago w/advice on installing new calipers a year ago! The only helpful info I have: Leaving your MC cap on during caliper installs or brake line installs, will reduce the flow rate of your fluid....I did not measure exactly, but tested this both ways, and appx 30%+ more brake fluid drained w/MC cap off, versus on. Good Luck!

scrmnss

I installed the Earls SS lines on all four corners on my 2001 SS. I also have traction control on the car. Thunder racing says those lines they sell fit up to 2002 with car that have TCS. They are wrong in 2001 GM changed the TCS lines. Look at the line you got from Thunder Racing, on one end of the line it has a concave fitting inside the line the other end has a convex fitting inside. On the stock rubber lines they have two concave fittings. Make sure when you remove the TCS lines you check the stock lines out and you will see what I mean.

SilverTAWS6

Does this mean they won't work on my car? At all?
I hope if that's true I can at least return them or something.

Chris

scrmnss

They did not work on my SS i had to return them. The four corners were fine it is just the TCS lines that won't work.

ChevyThunder17

iTrader: (48)

I had those two lines custom made over at a shop that specializes in hydraulic fittings. Cost me $30 to have the lines rebuilt as ss braided line. Well worth it.