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Changed shocks now steering wheel is'nt straight

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Old 03-12-2012, 07:53 PM
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Default Changed shocks now steering wheel is'nt straight

Yesterday i put on some kyb agx struts and on the test drive after the install i noticed when i would turn the steering wheel slightly to the left, the power steering would make a tssssss sound (almost like when you try and turn the wheel too much). it didnt do it all the time, it seemed to do it more coasting and turning the wheel then pulling it back straight, on the quick turn you would hear tsssssss..... everything else felt great! the steering felt stiffer and nothing else was abnormal. (except the tssss sound).

then on the way back to my house i noticed that the steering wheel was really off. when driving straight, the steering wheel is sideways to the left, its at 10-11 o'clock instead of 12. i put it on the lift at school today and we also noticed that the driver side tire hangs lower than the passenger. one guy was telling me that the driver side inner tierod looks broken/cracked and thats why the tire was hanging lower,???. i then read that we dont have inner tie rods, the part he was refering to is the steering gear.

i know the tie rod bushing are shot. i will be replacing those along with the sway bar and bushing. i dont think those are whats causing my issue because the steering wheel was fine before i did the strut swap and they where shot then. what could i have messed up while installing the strut? does it just need an alignment? what could of caused the tsssss sound? i know that has somthing to do with the steering wheel being off because it was when i turned it to the left that it made that noise (tsssss) and its the left side that the steering wheel is tilted towards.
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Last edited by ggino85; 03-12-2012 at 09:14 PM.
Old 03-13-2012, 12:44 AM
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Exactly.....what was the process you used to replace the shocks? Did you make sure the nut on the top of the shock was tight all the way? You did not have any extra parts, I know that sounds stupid but I have to ask. What parts did you replace? Did you put the coil spring insulator back inside the strut mount? Is there any banging clunking noises?
Old 03-13-2012, 02:38 AM
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We most certainly do have inner tie rods, I've replaced them before
Old 03-13-2012, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by LS1121
Exactly.....what was the process you used to replace the shocks? Did you make sure the nut on the top of the shock was tight all the way? You did not have any extra parts, I know that sounds stupid but I have to ask. What parts did you replace? Did you put the coil spring insulator back inside the strut mount? Is there any banging clunking noises?
lol, no, no extra parts. I did everything the way the chilton manuel says to do, except i didnt have to loosen the ball joint. and no clunking or anything like that. they actually feel really good, way better than watever was on there before. i tightened the nut on the top of the shock, but not super tight. i didnt know what it was for so i figured it would be best tightened down but i didnt wanna over torque it. i did notice the that i had to compress the spring on the driver side more than i did the passenger side to get the shock/strut in. i actually didnt have to compress the spring on the passenger side at all, i only needed to compress the driver to get it in.


i knew that i did overtighten the sway bar endlinks so i loosend them up and tightened them down to 17 ftlbs. i also jacked up the front end and loosened both front lower control arms, it looks like the passenger side rotor/wheel is pointing a little away from the car, and since they are adjustable i pulled the passenger side one out as much as it would go and it seems like that straightened out the wheel a little?

Last edited by ggino85; 03-13-2012 at 08:45 AM.
Old 03-13-2012, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
We most certainly do have inner tie rods, I've replaced them before
ok thanks for clearing that up, i figured we had to because i printed the steps on how to take it off from si2000. do you think that is what my problem is? there is no ticking or clunking when i turn or anything like that?
Old 03-13-2012, 08:39 AM
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Honestly, you need someone to inspect the front end that is familiar with them. Its extremely difficult to diagnose front end issues over the internet. Front ends take experience unless something is just plain broken/noticeable.
Old 03-13-2012, 09:50 AM
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Finish up grading everything ASAP the get it alignment
Old 03-13-2012, 06:51 PM
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i actually didnt have to compress the spring on the passenger side at all, i only needed to compress the driver to get it in.


i also jacked up the front end and loosened both front lower control arms, it looks like the passenger side rotor/wheel is pointing a little away from the car, and since they are adjustable i pulled the passenger side one out as much as it would go and it seems like that straightened out the wheel a little?[/QUOTE]

These are both problems.

It is Impossible to assemble the shock Properly without having to compress the spring....something is wrong.

You should Never move the lower control arms, only the guy setting the alignment should do that. That is why your steering wheel is not in the correct position.

You NOW need an alignment or you will wear out your tires rapidly.
Old 03-14-2012, 12:11 AM
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Ok i will take it to the dealership tomorrow to get aligned. i bought new tie rod ends today so i will put them on before the alignment.

with the shocks, the springs were on them when i got them and the spring that i did not need to compress (to install on the car) was the same size as the ones i took out. the driver side spring was more strechted out than the passenger one. i thought it was odd but i thought maybe that the shocks being adjustable had something to do with it. why would one spring be more compressed? the ride height is the same on both sides?



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