99_orange_SS

iTrader: (20)

If memory serves me right I think you are correct, good point. I think UMI would be able to easily adapt to the need for the smaller bolt and narrow space though. Since they CNC everything in house they would only have to make a couple small changes in the uploaded program. This is me ***-uming and we all know what that does. The only way to find out would be to contact UMI, I may do this out of my own curiosity and update the thread when I find out.

lees02WS6

iTrader: (5)

I think he should do it, cause there are a few guys running around with the Banski setup that would probably prefer something smoother than heims.

Driver_10

Its my first attempt at doing sheet-metal patchwork. I fully welded the trim-panels to make the rear end a bit more rigid and help with weather proofing. This will be a road going car with creature comforts, so there will be paint, thermo-coatings and interior rugging to cover those unsightly welds.

Its not the prettiest thing, but it should work well. I want to squeeze some 315 or larger in there, so the wheel-wells are a must.

I certainly hope that Iv'e refined my technique a bit more before I start installing tubs in other car.

Driver_10

Still waiting on some parts to arrive for my IRS project. I decided to do a bit more work on the other wheel well for the "third-gen" in the meantime.

I prepped the sheet metal a bit better and bumped up from .030 to .035 welding wire and produced some cleaner results.













BTW... I am open on ANY tips on getting my metal work cleaner.

99_orange_SS

iTrader: (20)

I just wanted to update you guys on the roto joint information I talked about above. Ryan at UMI informed me that because of the time requirement and setup changes to their CNC equipment that altering the spherical bearings in the Roto-joint to be offset would not be able to be done. I still feel the Roto-joint will be the best option for the C4 IRS along with the rest of the Banski setup.

Driver_10

Its been a while since I updated. Iv'e been concentrating on other areas of the build since I had to make some changes to my original plans. I haven't done much else on suspension work since I needed to get the under-hood work while the engine was still in the bay.

The 3500 came back from the shop some time ago. I set it in the bay on wooden blocks and propped it in its final mounting position. 3500 + tko600.











I went ahead and planned out my engine accessories and fabbed up the brackets

Trial and error... (emphasis on error.)
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...24579379_n.jpg

After some attempts, i finally found good mounting positions. I needed room for the turbo plumbing to swing around the front of the engine while allowing enough room to mount the A.C., power steering, Alternator and Dry-sump oil-pump.











Started adding pullies..


and another pulley here to get better belt coverage on the AC and the PS pump.


The oil-pump got a set of 1/4 steel brackets instead of aluminum for added rigidity.

Driver_10

With everything sitting in place, I went ahead and welded up the reinforcement for the accessory brackets.











The crank pulley was modified for the oil-pump mandrel.


The turbo bracket was mocked into place and the mandrel and belt routing put in place. The bracket was finished and other work was still needed for belt routing.




Some interference was found and another pulley was needed.






and the turbo bracket was finished.












.

Driver_10

With everything else finished, I went ahead and got the motor mounts finished and notched the firewall to make room for the driver-side cylinder head.









I used some universal bushings and just altered the lenth.


















The firewall was hammered a bit to get the engine squeezed into place and the spot was marked. After the engine came back out, the firewall was sliced and a panel was made. I should be able to remove the cylinder head install headers now easily without having to remove the engine through the bottom.











The final mounting for the engine is about 2 inches back and 4 inches downwards from the original v6's spot. The shortblock sits level with the rims now.

Driver_10

I got a woodward racing steer column in the car. The initial bracket that came with the unit had to be altered, so it fits my long frame rather comfortably well now. Both the steering wheel and the shifter sit level to one another. I no longer have to reach forward for either now.





Came with a nice MOMO steering wheel too!

99_orange_SS

iTrader: (20)

It is going to be wicked bud! Great progress!

Driver_10

Well... this thread has pretty much become a full fledged build thread (I haven't touched the IRS build for a while now). In any case, Im building the headers for it now!

BTW... this is my absolute first attempt at semi-equal length headers. Not bad for a "newb".

This Northern tools band saw was the hero of this build. Im So glad that I coughed up the cash for it.














Got the Other side pieced together too.


It was interfering with the K-member engine mounting pads, so I had to re-route the second runner for clearance




Plenty of clearance!


The side clearance is going to tight. Hopefully, there wont be any interference but I wont know until I re-install this engine and check

Driver_10

Ive done a lot of other fab work to get the engine accessories, lubrication system and turbo system.

The headers came out different from my original mock-up. They had to be altered for space constraints.






The pass side came out a bit better












Since the engine is equipped with dry-sump oiling, I needed to find a suitable spot to install the oil tank. After some careful deliberation I had decided to drop the front air-to-air IC in the front of the car to make space for an oil-tank that would sit in the pass side front corner under the bumper cover.
(bye-bye ol buddy)


I sold my old air-to-air unit and bought a cheap used water-to-air unit that will flow 700cfm worth of air. The heat exchanger is a 6 x 2.5 x 21inch unit that will fit in front where the old IC was before. The IC only good to 600hp before becoming restrictive, but that's well matched for an engine that will be making no more than 510 at the wheels. (about 590-ish at the crank)

The benefits of this new set-up will be faster boost response since the turbo routing is so short. It should have better air-flow efficiency since the pressure drop is only 1/3 that of an equivilant air-to-air IC.






I went ahead and made a "floating mount" for the IC to nudge it clear of the space needed for the oil tank. Looks pretty good.






By this point, the front cross-support had to be modified to make room for the IC and AC condensor



I went ahead and flipped the AC condensor over to put the hose fittings on the right side. Im quite happy with this.

Driver_10

With the IC sitting in its proper place. I got started on the dry-sump oil tank. The tank. I designed to be mounted in place of the coolant reservoir.




Made a sump for it.














Aaaaaaaand here's the point where my welding became ****. I couldnt get the bead to flow in that angle to save my life. I may grind a v-notch in it and re-weld it.


I began working on the service panel for it then next.














The filler can be accessed easily in the front of the car. I wont even have to jack-stands to change the oil now.

lilpb1

iTrader: (13)

Damn!!! Props to you for taking on such a huge build!!

Driver_10

I finished up the dry-sump oil-pan yesterday...

My aluminum welds are still "noobish", but they dont leak. Good design, mediocre welding...

One out of two aint bad.

Driver_10

I got the anti-foam baffles welded in and started closing her up.







After that, it was measure, cut and weld (repeat steps)












My DS system is nearly complete!

Somebody09

i like this thread. lots of cool fabrication and good ideas! any updates?

Driver_10

I've had some life changes lately. I'm switching jobs and making the transition into working offshore. I've also put off buying car parts for the immediate time being to get Some more fab equipment. I've picked up a 98 millermatic 250 MIG welder and a rogue fab hydraulic tubing bender w/ 1.75 bending dies.

With access to better equipment, I've rethought some aspects of the build. From here on, the evolution is going to get very radical.

Driver_10

The build is changing direction a bit and ive decided to dedicate myself to a more radical design.

I wanted to delete the spring and use coil-overs, but I soon realized that this would add more sprung weight to the assembly. (The idea being that the spring and shock itself would add to the mass that the spring and shock would be controlling)

This is just a rough sketch of some brainstorming that I had for the design.


Of course... I was lacking some of the equipment needed to be able to fabricate something on this scale. So I started plucking together the pennies to get some heavier-duty fab equipment.

After some thrifty living (and a diet of indigenous plants, tree bark and small animals) I had finally gotten enough cash outside of bills to buy a pipe bender and 250 single phase MIG welder.

The bender that I bought was a Rouge-fab with 1.75 bending die. When I bought the pipe-bender, it came in pieces that needed welding.


I used the welder at my job to assemble the pieces. The instructions from Rogue fab made the job pretty easy.









Here's something that anyone reading this needs to pay heed to... If you are going to buy and assemble one of these pipe benders, DO NOT weld them up completely. It will roll up like the sole of a tennis shoe. Instead weld it in 1 inch sections with with a 1 1/2 inch gap inbetween them.




I also went ahead and prepared a table to permanently mount it on.


I found a Millermatic 250 MIG for sale in Craigslist. This old guy had the welder in his shop since 98 and was selling it for $800. I took a chance and drove out 2 hours to pick it up. I took the covers off of it and cleaned it off with and air gun to get the layers of dust out of it. I also removed several or so dirt wasp nest that were stuck to the coils and circuit board.


The only issues that I found with it is that the lead is just plain worn out. The wire binds in it as it feed. Also fan doesn't work. Its only getting 12vac when the power is on, so it will need some diagnosis later to figure that out.

Otherwise, the machine works!


The next time I update this thread, I will be focussing on completing the engine bay, hose routing, radiator mounting, IC cooler mounting and final engine install.

Driver_10

Well... I may be changing jobs soon, so this may be the last update for at least the next two months.

I built the radiator and condenser support to mount the new 27.5 x 15.5 x 3 radiator and the stock AC condenser. The piece is made of .08 thick steel square tubing. It weighs identical to the hydroformed piece that it replaces.

The new radiator


bye bye stocker...










I also finished the bumper support.


I also did a little bit more "cage" work on the other car too..