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Front Shock Mount Issue (Pics) - Now What?

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Old 12-05-2012, 08:29 PM
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Default Front Shock Mount Issue (Pics) - Now What?

Replacing my front shocks for Konis, and I had to cut out the old shock to get it out from the spring due to the top nut being rusted. The top is really rusted and the nut (or what I think was once a nut) it stuck. I can't get a socket to go around it.

What are my options to get the rod out?

I was thinking about trying to knock it out from the back end, but I'm not sure if the rod is threaded into the bracket, or it's simply the rusted nut holding it in place.

I do NOT want to damage the mount if I can prevent it.

It seems that the middle of the bracket is metal, and that's surrounded by rubber. I didn't want to damage either material - and wasn't sure where to go from here.

HELP!
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Old 12-05-2012, 08:42 PM
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Turn it over an Knock it out through the top .
Old 12-05-2012, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 99Bluz28
Turn it over an Knock it out through the top .
wont work, i actually had to hack and cut mine up tonight because the nut was rusted to nothing, i had to drill and cut and hammer..if you can get the other side apart at all, youll see why you can get it apart, the shock shaft has a shoulder on it, with a small washer thats holding you up, and which is why you can pull it through.
Old 12-05-2012, 10:04 PM
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By the time you've spent the money on Konis you might as well just buy a new pair of Moog upper mounts while you're at it. Good luck getting the originals separated, not to mention that rubber now has 11+ years of aging and wear.
Old 12-05-2012, 10:51 PM
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Here is what i did, spray some PB on that thing and let it pool up and sit on it over night.

take some vice grips and clamp them on the piece of thread rod as tight as you can. Stick the handle of the grips in a bench vice. Tighten it up and then twist the hell out of that thing.

I was able to reuse on of mine but the other one was fused to badly that I eventually tore it I had so much torque behind trying to free it.

If you end up having to get a replacement. DO NOT BUY THE DURALAST REPLACEMENT FROM AUTOZONE. It is a piece of **** and I actually ended up taking my strut mount right back off and having to take it back for a refund. I guess that's what I get for trying to do it on the super cheap cheap. The Moog is more expensive but you can tell it is a better piece as soon as you hold it and seen it.

Good Luck
Old 12-05-2012, 11:07 PM
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The Moog mounts are only 47 bucks each from Rock Auto. Moog K6516 and K6517.

Don't forget to keep either the original dog bone inserts or buy new ones (Moog K6573, $4.48 each on Rock Auto, listed under "coil spring insulator" for some reason).
Old 12-06-2012, 05:01 AM
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Originally Posted by SparkyJJO
By the time you've spent the money on Konis you might as well just buy a new pair of Moog upper mounts while you're at it. Good luck getting the originals separated, not to mention that rubber now has 11+ years of aging and wear.
Agreed
Old 12-06-2012, 06:08 AM
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It depends where you cut the shock. If it looks like it will fit back through, chances are you can hit it back through. But I'll tell you now you have to hit it with the might of Thor, I seriously got a 4 pound hammer and beat the hell out of mine, but it came out.
Old 12-06-2012, 08:13 AM
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Thanks for the feedback everyone.

Originally Posted by JaYZeig
wont work, i actually had to hack and cut mine up tonight because the nut was rusted to nothing, i had to drill and cut and hammer..if you can get the other side apart at all, youll see why you can get it apart, the shock shaft has a shoulder on it, with a small washer thats holding you up, and which is why you can pull it through.
I believe I am above the shoulder you are talking about - look at the pics. It appears the rod is straight where I cut it. Im just not sure if what is remaining is stuck in place due to the rod being threaded INTO the mount, or just the nut on the end holding it in place. If it's just the nut, I may be able to knock it out. The top of the mount is in such had shape, I can't tell what's a nut, washer, or the mount itself. That right there might lead me to just buying a new mount.

Originally Posted by SparkyJJO
By the time you've spent the money on Konis you might as well just buy a new pair of Moog upper mounts while you're at it. Good luck getting the originals separated, not to mention that rubber now has 11+ years of aging and wear.
True, however I didn't research the shock install and know about these issues until now. I figured shocks and springs would have only taken me a few hours - until I hit this issue.

Originally Posted by My6speedZ
Here is what i did, spray some PB on that thing and let it pool up and sit on it over night.

take some vice grips and clamp them on the piece of thread rod as tight as you can. Stick the handle of the grips in a bench vice. Tighten it up and then twist the hell out of that thing.

I was able to reuse on of mine but the other one was fused to badly that I eventually tore it I had so much torque behind trying to free it.

If you end up having to get a replacement. DO NOT BUY THE DURALAST REPLACEMENT FROM AUTOZONE. It is a piece of **** and I actually ended up taking my strut mount right back off and having to take it back for a refund. I guess that's what I get for trying to do it on the super cheap cheap. The Moog is more expensive but you can tell it is a better piece as soon as you hold it and seen it.
Thanks. I'll try this tonight. If not, I'll buy the moog replacement. Thanks for the heads up on the Duralast issues.

Originally Posted by SparkyJJO
The Moog mounts are only 47 bucks each from Rock Auto. Moog K6516 and K6517.

Don't forget to keep either the original dog bone inserts or buy new ones (Moog K6573, $4.48 each on Rock Auto, listed under "coil spring insulator" for some reason).
Thanks for the part numbers. I've only taken one side off (passenger) so far. I'll take off the driver side tonight. If I have the same issue, I'll order both at the same time.

Originally Posted by jbridwelltransam
It depends where you cut the shock. If it looks like it will fit back through, chances are you can hit it back through. But I'll tell you now you have to hit it with the might of Thor, I seriously got a 4 pound hammer and beat the hell out of mine, but it came out.
I'll try this tonight. I do not have a good way to keep it in place, though. I'll have to figure out something.

On a side note, it seems everything lately has been a hassle on this car. My wifes old Maxima NEVER gave me an issue working on it. Everything was straight forward. Sorry for the rant - I just want the car done and to drive it, vs. constantly working on it and projects taking 2-4x the length they should.
Old 12-06-2012, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 01 ss vert
True, however I didn't research the shock install and know about these issues until now. I figured shocks and springs would have only taken me a few hours - until I hit this issue.
Sounds like me the first time I did mine. Ended up taking me almost a whole week and taking apart the driver side several times. I learned the hard way about other brands than Moog and OEM.
Old 12-08-2012, 07:54 PM
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said shoulder, is about halfway on the strutmount.. i had to actually cut the rubber, and cut completly through the mount to get it apart.

thats whats holding you up, the nut on the top, and this shoulder thats part of the shock shaft for lack of a better term in the middle of the mount.
Old 12-10-2012, 07:47 AM
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The driverside is giving me issues as well - I just placed an order for new parts.
Old 12-16-2012, 10:01 PM
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before putting them back on the car.....pack them with grease
Old 12-17-2012, 08:44 AM
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It's just rusted. Compress the spring and cut the shock shaft and knock it out. Had to do it on mine.



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