Question for Stagg shock users
 

The angle of the struts lower mounts are straight compared to my Bilsteins.
Are yours the same? See pix below

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j2...6CA1706825.jpg
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j2...6C97A1CE81.jpg
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j2...6C8C6EDBA4.jpg

its rubber..............the mount will turn when you bolt it in *eldebrock shock guy here...same problem*

You're replacing Bilsteins with Staggs? :bomb:

Agreed^^^^

Temporary resolution
Sending my Bilsteins to get revalved for the lowered height I have instead of new ones that I, told wont last long with 1.5 inch drop.
6 week turnaround on the revalves or I would have not gotten the Staggs to hold me over.

Gotcha. How much does the revalving set you back?

how do u like those stagg shocks and struts??
does that straight peice move??

Just curious if either of you have first hand experience with them?

"Made in China."

My past experiences with cheap shocks and other suspension components from there have not been positive, so I avoid them now (similar with most other things when I can). Plus a quickie google of them also had a few hits pretty high up about poor designs that caused one guy's front end to slam down because the welds sheared off.

When you google a brand name and you get several hits high on the list to not buy, well, that usually tells you something.

Stagg fronts are soft, the rears work great. I'm waiting on my bils, should have them in couple weeks...Staggs were a temp solution.

My bilsteins lasted for 100,000 miles being lowered. They were good when I took them of and replaced them with koni's. That is a mythe that they don't last for a lowered car.

Were they the HD or the SLP-spec shocks? Nowadays there is no difference but there used to be a valving difference between them.

I don't think how long they last is an issue. I think it's the quality of their damping rate that is known to diminish over time.

Yup.. what's your definition of "last"? To many it's not leaking, well OEM's will likely go 100k and not leak. For me how good a shock is working is measured by how well it does it's job. So lots of things matter, the springs, how the car is driven, how it feels to the person driving it, etc.

SLP, they came on the car.
Yes their damping was starting to fade or atleast it seemed that way. But I would have no problem wanting to these shocks on a another car with 115k on them. They are still much better than the decarbons and probably other new aftermarket shocks.
No leaks and still had gas in them. Good hiway ride I was just noticing the car was moving around more when I was beating on it. Some of the movement could've been coming from the springs, they seemed to be giving up and were sagging to what the ride height once was. But I have your stuff on it now.:pimp:

Sam my ride height seems high compared to other Strano springed cars. My car only weighs about 3000lb so that could be why. Would cutting your springs a little be a good idea?? It would'nt take much to get it where it should be.

That would probably be why. They were valved differently since SLP used lower springs with them. But now that difference isn't there, which is a pity.

Yeah this is something the shocks control. Say the springs did sag a bit and the shocks were up to par, then you'd just be riding a bit lower but the slight movements would be controlled. So this is a pretty good example of what happens over time to Bilstiens on lowering springs.

I'm sure a lot of people can live with this, no problem. I just wanted to point out the details

SLP and HD valvings have not always been the same, and the current SLP and HD valvings are NOT the same as the SLP's that came on the car OEM back in the day. It's not quite a simple as many think. :)

As for cutting springs. Well, they are your springs... When you take more than 10% of the weight of the car away it is going to sit higher, regardless of what spring is in use. I can't build springs for the car @ 3k pounds because next to none of them are. If you want to try and modify them, go for it. But it's never recommended because cutting a given amount off doesn't necessarily equate to that same amount of drop. Also it can and probably will weaken the spring.

Well they should have some were after 100+k of abuse. I would think any shock would have some wear in that amount of time.
How can it weaken the spring?? They had to be cut at some point or I would be draging spring behind my car:D. I just thought I would mention it to ya. I mentioned my cars weight to ya when I bought them. I could measure the wheel arch and let ya know so we could figure out just how much higher it is than a full weight car.

Well not everyone cuts them the same way, let alone with the huge shears that are used when the are made... :) Torches are a no-no. A cut-off wheel maybe if you keep the metal as cold as possible with water and/or oil to suck up heat.