OCSSleeper

Tiyle is the question! Thanks!

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

You already have one, stock, its purpose is lateral
location of the rear relative to body. A beefier
aftermarket one might provide some cornering
improvement (less flex in compression, squirm).
Or not. An adjustable one has the benefit of
adjustability. This comes in when you have changed
other pieces and the altered ride height pushes the
side-side location around because the Panhard is
angled and you get a cosine offset that may want
to be taken out to keep your tires from rubbing on
one side.

BADZ

iTrader: (5)

True!!!!

dc33cool

Just as jimmyblue stated it centers the rear end under the car mostly on lowered cars.

4mula1

Do you guys feel an adjustable panhard rod is a must if you go to the Eibach pro-kit?

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

Yes, it's a very good idea to get one with that kit.

BADZ

iTrader: (5)

I would suggest it!!!!

txhorns281

iTrader: (12)

what about a non-adjustable PHB w/ the Pro-Kit????

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

Thats a very good question... I am not sure that when lowering, you HAVE to get an adjustable. For anyone who can answer, is an adjustable PHB necessary even if you are going to take the car in for alingment after lowering?

WEASEL

Get a double adjustable PHR. The price difference is negligible and makes adjusting much easier. You just loosen the lock nuts on each end and start turning the bar.

You can see the body move. Turn the bar one way and the body moves left. Turn the bar the other way and the body moves right. When you've got the body centered, tighten the jam nuts on each end against the bar and you're done.

2w0s060

Do you do this adjusting with the suspension loaded on the ground, or I guess you could out the rear on jack stands?

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

It depends. Many say they need to adjust them after lowering a car. I have never done so on any of my cars I've lowered or helped with. But I was not stuffing large 17 or 18" (by 11 wide) rims on my cars. And, I saw equal rubbing for autocross with the stock length and 255/50-16 race tires. But, my experience seems not to be typical of others. So, it really seems to depend on tire size, amount of lowering, etc. I would think it may be more critical to get the rear exactly centered with wider tires. Also, the aftermarket PHB's will generally flex less than the stock one. This also will help prevent tire rub. But, it is better to have the adjustability and not need it than to need it and not have it. With that said, avoid BMR's "center adjuster" design. Buy "anything else".

And, alignment can't fix the location of the rear axle, so if you need to adjust it, you'd still need to adjust it.

My thoughts

WEASEL

I've always put the rear on jackstands and then jacked the pumpkin up high enough to load the suspension. It doesn't take but a minute to adjust it. It helps to tape some kind of plumbing bob to hang from the fenders so you can measure the string to each wheel/tire.

With stock 16's, you might not even need one but the Prokit has a record of dropping more than advertised and if you go with wider than 9" tires it would be a good investment.

I think it's rare but I remember a couple folks posting a long while back that they had damaged their inside sidewalls from scrubbing in hard turns.