camber with adjustable a arms
 

So I'm trying to set up my camber close enough to drive. Goal is 0 degrees camber. And for the life of me I can't get away from positive camber.I have upper a arms adjusted as short as possible, bottom pulled out on the slots of the kmember. And ride height where I wanted it. Still alittle positive. Any suggestions?

Could you provide a little more info about your set-up? Apparently the car is lowered, what springs do you have? What a-arms, stock or aftermarket?

Qa1 300lb springs, Midwest chassis upper adjustable, umi adjustable lowers. For a street/strip car. Got 3.5" from the top of the tire to the fender.

I can make a set of custom uppers if need be... let me know if so.

I hope I don't need another set, these don't have any use on them. Any ideas on how to pick up alittle negative camber? With the upper a arms as short as they can go, I have 3.5" wheel to fender clearance up front right now. I know lowering it may get a alittle.

FWIW, I have 3" from the top of my tire, to the fender, at the wheel's centerline. I'm on OE a-arms, both upper and lower, and currently have Strano springs, formerly Eibachs. I'm currently at at 0* camber, but have more than enough adjustment available to easily get a couple of degrees of negative camber, and this was the situation with either set of springs.

Are your upper a-arms side specific? If so, do you have them on the correct side?

Ahh ok, I see someone else says set caster first, them camber, then lastly toe. Can someone give me the run down on what exactly adjusting the upper a arm and lower a arm affects? Im kinda new to alignments. Like I mentioned uppers are adjustable, lowers are adjustable and kmember has slots for the lower a arm.

There's only 2 bolts on the bottom to adjust. The suspension is these car is prehistoric compared to modern suspensions. The camber and castor are both dependent on each other. The more neg camber you add the higher your caster will go up.

First of all, you've added 2 variables to the equation, by installing adjustable a-arms. The factory set up has fixed upper and lowers, and the "slots in the k-member" that you refer to, are what are used to set the caster and camber. Usually, those slots provide enough adjustment to get the caster and camber you need....HOWEVER, if you've adjusted the upper a-arms so their effective length is LONGER than the OE arms (increasing positive camber), and the lower arms are SHORTER than the OE arms (also increasing positive camber), you might not have enough adjustment available in the slots of the k-member to get it right.

Uppers are shorter than stock, bottom should be the same or a tad longer than stock. Lowers are pulled all the way towards the wheel on the slot.

Being very careful that you still have plenty of thread engagement of the rod ends in the a-arm, you probably will have to lengthen the lower a-arms a little more.