Meen95z

iTrader: (26)

Installed the mwc manual brake kit on my 95' Trans Am, I got a good pedal, but just doesnt stop. Anyone have this issue or know the problem. Bench Bled the master, then bled the lines. Thanks

fastsspr

iTrader: (49)

You are using the factory rotors and calipers?

KWIK84

Did you drill the hole up from the factory pin?

Sounds like you have pressure but lack flow.....

Meen95z

iTrader: (26)

I was under the impression from mwc that you can install this without modifying anything. So stock calipers and rotors. No one said anything about drilling anything besides the pedal either.

Meen95z

iTrader: (26)

Yes I drilled the pedal 1in up from the stock location

Meen95z

iTrader: (26)

Has anyone ran manual brakes on stock lt1 calipers?

Steinjager

I am running manual brakes on single piston calipers all the way around...

Can't remember are the LT1's dual piston front and single rear???

From the sounds of it I would say the master cylinder bore is to small, which would cause the issue you are speaking of....I am sure MWC is selling a 1.03 bore MC which should be right, but may have been mislabled....or such.

Meen95z

iTrader: (26)

Im pretty sure its a 1 1/8" bore. And all calipers are single piston.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

You lost the power assist but nothing else changed. You need much more powerful pads now to compensate for the loss of applied pressure to the calipers.

This is no different than someone taking off their power steering belt and wondering why the car is hard to turn all of a sudden.

Meen95z

iTrader: (26)

what do you recommend? I can push as hard as I can rolling like 3 mph and takes like a bit to stop it. I just did the manual conversion that's it. Yea did the manual rack too, see what you mean.

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

an 'aggresive' pad should help. I went with road racing pads from Sam Strano for the rear to help hold at the line to lessen the torque pushing thru the brakes.

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

I'm just curious, what's the point of manual brakes? I can understand manual steering for a drag car as you don't need much steering there and you don't want the load of the pump, but the brakes...?

Steinjager

3 fold gain....

1.) Large cams don't create enough vacuum to properly run power brakes.

2.) Increased room under the hood

3.) Weight (although not much)

1981TA

iTrader: (7)

I've been running manual brakes for over a year. When I converted over, I also ditched the stock master for a Wilwood master that was 1/8 inch smaller in bore size than stock. I attached the brake rod to thw upper hole (2nd gens are pre-drilled for manual brakes). My rear brakes are LS1 f-body, and fronts are 6-piston Wilwoods. I had to do a lot of monkeying around and testing to get it perfect. The pedal feels hard, but the car stops on a dime. If you feel a hard pedal and can't stop well, it sounds to me like it could be any one of the following:

1. your master cylinder bore may be too large in diameter.
2. The angle of the push rod, compared to the pedal shaft, is far enough off from 90 degrees that you're actually losing mechanical leverage.
3. You kinked a brake line somewhere.

Anyway, its worth looking into.

Meen95z

iTrader: (26)

Its the same Strange Master Cylinder everyone runs. I think most of the 4th gen manual brake kits have the same master cylinder. I still have stock lt1 single piston brakes. Would going to the ls1 front brakes help? Or be worth doing? I checked the lines, re bled the brakes. No leaks or anything.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

We'd have to talk about options available (not sure if you changed to LS1 fronts or not), but there are definitely pads that will offer you a lot more bite, just a matter of what you are willing to live with to stop. Some might be dirty and noisy, but they'll work to stop you better. Or you can do back to power brakes with somewhat less aggressive pads since you'll have the mechanical advantage back.

Meen95z

iTrader: (26)

After some research I see my master cylinder has a. 1.125 bore and according to strange that's recommended for 4 piston calipers. They make a 1.032 bore master cylinder thats recommended for single and dual piston calipers. Its what my kit came with. So switching to a smaller bore should help my situation along with good pads. Cheapest way to go would be a new master off a 89' caravan that's just about 1" bore and $30. That's if using stock lt1 brakes.

Meen95z

iTrader: (26)

The caravan master cylinder looks identical to my strange master cylinder. Anyone have anyother opinions?

Steinjager

I think you'll be much happier with the 1.03.....usually the $30 caravan one is a rebuilt unit, and the strange unit is all new parts.